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View Full Version : one after the other - Mike's EG4



MM89
12-06-08, 12:31 AM
Hey guys, just thought i'd jump on the bandwagon and do another build thread
as my mate Oxer just did recently with his thread. As you guessed, I also own an
EG4 myself. The car has been in my hands since January this year and has been
through some ups and downs.

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/899/dscn5543tf9.jpg

When i first got her home, she was taken for a quick drive and just as i got out onto the street,
she died on me. After some diagnosis, it was decided that this was the culprit!

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/3474/dscn5557bm6.jpg

That's a pretty fair effort..for a timing belt to have snapped, i'm guessing it may have done just one too many K's...
Being the impulsive buyer I am, didn't hesitate to make some additions to it despite not even having the car on the road!

Front tower strut not yet installed

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/5930/dscn5563jv7.jpg

Buddy Club type A gear knob (served me well for quite some time)

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/1717/dscn5544gq0.jpg


Knowing that the car doesn't put much power to the ground, an engine conversion to a
B series motor was planned early on. However there always seemed to be things getting
in the way...when you save up a couple of hundred bucks, it'd go towards other mods! blahhh

next in line came some new wheels and rubber to roll in

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/573/p0130081214sz5.jpg

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/6408/p0130081608pu8.jpg

ambers? standard mayyyte!

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/876/p0201082203oc5.jpg


the focus was mainly for a good suspension setup so out went the stock
shocks and springs. In came in a set of coilovers. Suspension mods so far
have just been kept to this so far, not to mention replacing the rear trailing
arm bushes. However, there are plans to include a rear sway bar in the near future.

IN

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/2076/dscn0065rp0.jpg

OUT

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/3056/dscn0081bc3.jpg

see how the bush is splitting!? OMGWTF

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/9081/dscn0068ra7.jpg

in goes the coilovers

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/796/dscn0100dm4.jpg

all everything back in, ready to go!

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/5099/dscn0111tl3.jpg

Must say that there is obviously a big difference in the ride comfort!
Ride height has only been lowered about 2 or 3 cm for daily driving
peace of mind, otherwise my front bar and exhaust would probably
require replacement by now. The improvement in the steering response,
the increase in the rigidity of the vehicle and the cut down in body roll
is just amazing. Thumbs up to coilovers!

Lowered stance, not that low at all hey!

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/5391/dscn0135xl1.jpg


Lately, the build has been going a bit quiet as I'm currently lacking in
the financial sector, ontop of trying to return some coin here and there.
Hence only some minor additions have seen the car in the recent couple
of months.

Type R style gear knob

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8176/dscn0204xa4.jpg

Buddy Club fixed bucket seat - gives better hugs than chicks ;)

http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/3739/image007uv2.jpg

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/7506/image008mr0.jpg

Latest addition involved some genuine DC5R pedals from Ebay Domestic Market LOL!

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/1087/image020na4.jpg


Really should stop this impulsive buying now..will never get any engine work done!
However, plans have changed engine wise. Was originally going to go
with a B16A, preferably off an EG6 hence pretty much a straight drop with
all the wiring available and the correct ECU. However, being on OzHonda for
quite some time now, this process has been overdone by many in my opinion.


Not looking for stupid power so B series vtec head on B series non vtec block
was out of the question. A B18C or B18CR is also pretty common as well these
days. Not much custom work involved, only a matter of dropping the engine,
changing complete loom, install efi parts (since mine's carb) etc. I would very
much prefer spending more time playing around with the whole motor.

Hence it has brought me to the decision or conducting an all motor rebuild
on the "almighty" 72kw D15B4. Although uncommon in Australia, this has
been done more than enough in the States. Hence, I'm lucky enough to
have a truckload of knowledge stored on those forums. Parts are also widely
available so the rebuild parts will be mainly sourced from US.

This will be a lengthy process, yet the outcome is deemed to be quite rewarding.
Rather than buying a second hand motor, not knowing how long its been sitting
in someone's backyard for nor the condition of the motor etc. I will have a brand
spanking new motor sitting at 0km. On the same note, I think that one will be
able to learn more through taking a whole motor apart, then rebuilding the whole
thing over again.

I know there will be those out there who are going to say "D series has no
potential unless it's turbo, go for the B series instead. Makes more power,
much easier process." Right but wrong. On an all motor D15, a bloke in the US
is making 100kw atfw. Hence more than most B16As with I/H/E mods.
Price for this rebuild is around HALF of a B16A conversion including all fluids
replacements, gasket rebuilds, fabrication needed ready to roll in the EG.

I think why most people don't bother with trying to make power in D series
is because there's so much work involved. There's some of us out here who
don't actually mind the work and it takes some fiddling around in the engine
to be able to appreciate the power that it's bringing you.

Comments and Criticism most welcome :)

SuperN0va
12-06-08, 01:14 AM
Cool Pics and its nice that your doing up a SOHC. Is there a reason why you chose the D15B4 over a D16Y1/1.6 sohc vtec ?

100kw atw's is pretty decent for a 1.5...but how much has that guy modified the cams/block/tuning and so on ? it would be pretty extensive yeh ?

Good luck with the project ;)

OVTEC
12-06-08, 01:31 AM
oh sweet :) nice choice on BC seat :P ive got one too

cars looking good man and very interesting to see how your choice of setup runs :)

MM89
12-06-08, 01:32 AM
Cool Pics and its nice that your doing up a SOHC. Is there a reason why you chose the D15B4 over a D16Y1/1.6 sohc vtec ?

100kw atw's is pretty decent for a 1.5...but how much has that guy modified the cams/block/tuning and so on ? it would be pretty extensive yeh ?

Good luck with the project ;)

um it's the engine currently sitting in my car and so working with what i have is a pretty good challenge.

100kw atw is fahhking supahh for a 1.5 non vtec. The thing I like about D series builds is that even though you don't have the joys of revving to 8,000rpm or so, on the build that I've hypothetically designed, my powerband ranges from approximately 3,000rpm to 7,000rpm. It'll be alot more road friendly in terms of power on the tap.

The bloke with that 100kw setup has an EXTENSIVE setup.

Pistons, Rods, Valves, Valve Springs, Retainers, Stage 2 camshafts, Bored out cylinders, Milled head, Bored out block, Cam gear with advance timing adjusted, Balanced and lighter crank, Self designed headers, Side draught race spec carbs, and he's done about 60 or so dyno pulls to get to that power

Supposedly with some more changes, he's expecting to make 150+ hp (150hp being approximately 112kw in language we understand LOL) on this NA build. Don't know where he's going to squeeze that power out of, will have to wait and see.

dopey
12-06-08, 01:35 AM
Hmm, that seems like a massive amount of money, time and effort for only 100kw. Still, if doing something different is your kinda thing then it's all good.

Looking pretty tidy so far, keep us updated with progress.

MM89
12-06-08, 01:37 AM
Hmm, that seems like a massive amount of money, time and effort for only 100kw. Still, if doing something different is your kinda thing then it's all good.

Looking pretty tidy so far, keep us updated with progress.

That guy's just lucky he has free access to a dyno machine LOL!
to be honest, a rebuild like that is similar if not cheaper than an engine conversion ;)

rodent
12-06-08, 02:55 AM
Cripes, straight up going to do your own full engine rebuild. All the best dude.

Sp33dY
12-06-08, 08:39 AM
Noice! i'd hate to think how much impulse purchasing has set u back already!! :P

OoSKYLINEoO
12-06-08, 09:04 AM
nice build mate :P

i like it :)

mrkrooz
12-06-08, 02:05 PM
love it looks clean :)

Oxer
12-06-08, 06:47 PM
D-series brothers y0!

MM89
13-06-08, 12:15 AM
D-series brothers y0!

oiiii reckon! ;) we gotta roll together sometime this
week since you got the permit LOL!

thanks for all the comments guys, some more impulsive purchasing lately..
pics will be uploaded when they arrive!! also dug up some photos from
my comp, so will have em up soon

ram
13-06-08, 12:23 AM
Civic's looking nice

Can I just ask, what is with the fascination with 'being different' and going D-series?

It just doesn't make sense to me when b-series motors are not hard too find in oz, are probably not too much more expensive, have better after market support in oz and are just a much better engine?

Genuine question, not being a hater. Is being different worth sacrificing all of the above?

MM89
13-06-08, 02:23 AM
Um put it this way, a B series motor is definitely more powerful right from the beginning to the end.
Modding the B series will bring even more power.

"probably not too much more expensive"
after alot of research, b series motors actually turns out to be lots more expensive,
especially if you're planning to modify it later on. take for example a complete gasket
kit for a D15 costs 80 bucks from America. Including shipping, let's say 120 bucks at
most. B series complete gasket kit. 245 bucks from jdmyard on ozhonda. Shipping 260
maybe? Buying internal parts can also end up being alot cheaper too. You can't buy
one camshaft or one cam gear for the B series.

Furthermore, for the engine conversion, I've done quite an extensive calculation
for the total costs. Here's a ballpark figure that we're looking at. By including
all the fluid changes and rebuild kits, i've tried to convince myself that it'll provide
me with a peace of mind when the car is ready to drive off onto the roads.
I believe I've also missed out on some other costs such as fabrication at the exhaust
shop required to align the exhaust to the headers blah blah blah.

http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/6894/73462220hp9.jpg

Although I haven't made up a cost estimation for the all motor rebuild yet.
I'm expecting a lower total figure less the carb setup, which is gonna be
"fully hectic". Otherwise, looking at around $2.5k, which will include high
end replacement parts for oem config and any boring, honing, balancing work
which needs to be done. Once again, I should probably note that the
motor would be pretty much brand new in comparison to a 100,000km
engine with unknown engine life unless a rebuild is conducted as well.

MM89
13-06-08, 02:00 PM
pics updated !!

props to my man shiri for this awesome as shot !

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/3140/2560501583788fa62943oce5.jpg

my attempt to photoshop in a matte black bumper.
need a new front bar as the current one has a few
dings here and there.. =/
suggestions to keep it black or spray white?

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/5953/image010da7.jpg

shot by my boy sol

http://a633.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/80/l_1c66e4720f9a23cf2bb5e9bff6a70338.jpg

my attempt at fotog

http://a184.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/103/l_ca05b0365d2bffb82b8863b9bc3c6357.jpg

http://a897.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/71/l_6b1e3a1af19a98b373f1777555e323b8.jpg

you aint asian if you don't pose for pics! im on the right LOL

http://a855.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/77/l_0eb6a47e804e993a8ef7e30e4e3f2b36.jpg

MM89
13-06-08, 02:58 PM
some more old school pics when i first got the car

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/2984/dsc02728vi6.jpg

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/8297/img7245igs8.jpg

some random CRX i saw at RMIT carpark LOL

http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/1972/dscn0145cb8.jpg

touge crx
13-06-08, 05:14 PM
Not bad i like the direction that ur taking! Did i read corectly that the d15b4 had 72kw? atw?

I<3MyHonda
13-06-08, 06:02 PM
I know there will be those out there who are going to say "D series has no
potential unless it's turbo, go for the B series instead. Makes more power,
much easier process." Right but wrong. On an all motor D15, a bloke in the US
is making 100kw atfw. Hence more than most B16As with I/H/E mods.
Price for this rebuild is around HALF of a B16A conversion including all fluids
replacements, gasket rebuilds, fabrication needed ready to roll in the EG.




100kw atw is fahhking supahh for a 1.5 non vtec. The thing I like about D series builds is that even though you don't have the joys of revving to 8,000rpm or so, on the build that I've hypothetically designed, my powerband ranges from approximately 3,000rpm to 7,000rpm. It'll be alot more road friendly in terms of power on the tap.

The bloke with that 100kw setup has an EXTENSIVE setup.

Pistons, Rods, Valves, Valve Springs, Retainers, Stage 2 camshafts, Bored out cylinders, Milled head, Bored out block, Cam gear with advance timing adjusted, Balanced and lighter crank, Self designed headers, Side draught race spec carbs, and he's done about 60 or so dyno pulls to get to that power

Supposedly with some more changes, he's expecting to make 150+ hp (150hp being approximately 112kw in language we understand LOL) on this NA build. Don't know where he's going to squeeze that power out of, will have to wait and see.

I think you should look at a rear brake conversion also.
I can see you have plenty of knowledge and are taking a very organised approach to your decision. Do you have any quotes on the custom work?
Supposing that you are planning a similar path to the bloke in the US, I'm sceptical of the 'Half the price of a B series swap' theory. I have made the assumption that you are going to go down a similar path to that set up though, so please do forgive me if I'm wrong.
I'm very keen to hear your secrets:twisted: if you are willing to divulge any to me, I would love a D series that drops all it's power out between 3 and 7 thou RPM.

What coilovers did you go for? would you mind giving me a mini review on them? I am looking for a set of coilovers for my EG4 aswell. Also can I ask what are the specs on your wheel and tyre set up?

Oxer
14-06-08, 12:22 AM
Not bad i like the direction that ur taking! Did i read corectly that the d15b4 had 72kw? atw?

It varies by a couple of KW's lolz... I am planing on dyno'ing my dual carb before I do the conversion just to see what power they actually make... Then once both Mike and I can dyno after to see what gains we actually make and how much we spend during the builds..

At the end of the day building cars isnt about who can spend the most money and make the most power (if that were the case there would be a D-series that would eat B's for lunch :P ) Its about enjoying it and having fun with your friends. Anybody who doesnt have time for D-series, thats fair enough, but for the people who are open minded we welcome input, enquiries and motivation, whether it be positive or negative :D

Sorry for any sort of thread hijack, but Im sure my man Mike agrees!

MM89
14-06-08, 03:54 AM
I think you should look at a rear brake conversion also.
I can see you have plenty of knowledge and are taking a very organised approach to your decision. Do you have any quotes on the custom work?
Supposing that you are planning a similar path to the bloke in the US, I'm sceptical of the 'Half the price of a B series swap' theory. I have made the assumption that you are going to go down a similar path to that set up though, so please do forgive me if I'm wrong.
I'm very keen to hear your secrets:twisted: if you are willing to divulge any to me, I would love a D series that drops all it's power out between 3 and 7 thou RPM.

What coilovers did you go for? would you mind giving me a mini review on them? I am looking for a set of coilovers for my EG4 aswell. Also can I ask what are the specs on your wheel and tyre set up?

yepp brake conversion is a must. it'll be a complete conversion though, bigger and drilled or slotted rotors, high temp pads etc. Hence may also require some new wheels to roll in to fit the setup..how about some fully sick 20" chromies bro! haha just kidding ;)

i would actually have to admit that i have a limited amount of knowledge when comparing to some of the other dudes on this forum and ozhonda etc. most of the stuff is learnt from here and my father, who also happens to be a mechanic. Luckily he was also an auto-enthusiast and hence all the knowledge that he had in tuning his own cars will be used on this setup. Most of the work will be done at home, only with the absence of a dyno machine which would come in handy ey?

You're not wrong to assume that I'm going down a simliar path to the dude in the states, in fact it'll be quite a similar setup. In terms of quotes, not much has been
done. However, one of my mates in Adelaide did tell me that milling the head by 1mm and (MAYBE if i remember correctly) boring out the cylinders 0.5mm and installation of new parts into the head was all done for approximately 500 bucks.

Don't have any secrets but from the little that i know, a key to making power is timing? Correct me if i'm wrong please.

The coilovers are 6 way damper adjustable. It is made to the exact same specification as one of the Skunk2 coilovers. Sorry I don't remember which one though. Rideheight has been set to 2cm lower front and rear, currently running on the softest dampest setting as the hardest setting would simply make it too stiff for the street. There have been slight differences since setting the height. On each corner, there has been less than 0.5cm change. A wheel alignment has also
been conducted, setting toe back to zero on each corner.

As to how these coilovers perform, I wouldn't recommend them for the street. Although after installation, you will immediately recognise the difference in steering response, the decreased body roll and overall increase in the balance of the car, it is probably not so suitable for most streets. Why i say this is because, Aussie roads are not smooth enough to really enjoy a set of coilovers. Train tracks and speed bumps become your best friends (insert sarcasm). Also, it can be quite dangerous, especially travelling at higher speeds on the more bumpier roads. This is due to really low rates of suspension travel and to my understanding, when the sussy meets a bumpy road and doesn't compress enough, going at high speeds, the result will be less contact patch and less grip and even tyres may lift off the floor. (personal experience). I could imagine these coilovers being quite a fun experience on the track though as it very obedient on the smoother roads :)

Wheels are CE28 replicas (yes, cos I can't afford the real deal). 15 x 6.5 is the size, +35 offest and they weigh approximately 5kg each. I do wonder how strong these wheels are though, being replicas. I would much prefer a stronger wheel than a lighter wheel that is prone to splitting or other sorts of race damage that it may conflict.

Tyre choice is not the best, but enough for now. They're Toyo Proxes 4, in a 205/50/15 size. Grip at first felt quite good, but there could be several reasons why I feel that it has decreased now. Have actually spun out before from around 100km/h, so there are some rough patches on the tyre were the surface is not quite even. Sometimes I also blame it on the seat? I tend to corner slower since installing the seat as I cannot correctly judge cornering speeds as I used to since I'm only so short and I can't feel or see sh*t in the seat. Considered changing back to stock seat, but after a bit of adjusting and experimenting, the bucket ain't too bad, so that's obviously not tyre related..Hell must be too late when I don't know what I'm saying!

MM89
14-06-08, 04:00 AM
Not bad i like the direction that ur taking! Did i read corectly that the d15b4 had 72kw? atw?

Correct 72kw is at the flywheel though. At the front wheels maybe around 55kw? Varies from dyno to dyno, the tune and also other factors. Carb setups tend to dislike cold air !

MM89
14-06-08, 04:01 AM
It varies by a couple of KW's lolz... I am planing on dyno'ing my dual carb before I do the conversion just to see what power they actually make... Then once both Mike and I can dyno after to see what gains we actually make and how much we spend during the builds..

At the end of the day building cars isnt about who can spend the most money and make the most power (if that were the case there would be a D-series that would eat B's for lunch :P ) Its about enjoying it and having fun with your friends. Anybody who doesnt have time for D-series, thats fair enough, but for the people who are open minded we welcome input, enquiries and motivation, whether it be positive or negative :D

Sorry for any sort of thread hijack, but Im sure my man Mike agrees!

haha! couldn't have said it any better myself man! :)

dc2rrrr
14-06-08, 09:00 AM
d's are pretty cool. Im very surprised just how well mine goes.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l90/dc2rrrr/shitbox.jpg

I<3MyHonda
14-06-08, 12:40 PM
Most of the work will be done at home, only with the absence of a dyno machine which would come in handy ey?

You're not wrong to assume that I'm going down a simliar path to the dude in the states, in fact it'll be quite a similar setup. In terms of quotes, not much has been
done. However, one of my mates in Adelaide did tell me that milling the head by 1mm and (MAYBE if i remember correctly) boring out the cylinders 0.5mm and installation of new parts into the head was all done for approximately 500 bucks.

The coilovers are 6 way damper adjustable. It is made to the exact same specification as one of the Skunk2 coilovers. Sorry I don't remember which one though. Rideheight has been set to 2cm lower front and rear, currently running on the softest dampest setting as the hardest setting would simply make it too stiff for the street. There have been slight differences since setting the height. On each corner, there has been less than 0.5cm change. A wheel alignment has also
been conducted, setting toe back to zero on each corner.

Why i say this is because, Aussie roads are not smooth enough to really enjoy a set of coilovers. Train tracks and speed bumps become your best friends (insert sarcasm). Also, it can be quite dangerous, especially travelling at higher speeds on the more bumpier roads. This is due to really low rates of suspension travel and to my understanding, when the sussy meets a bumpy road and doesn't compress enough, going at high speeds, the result will be less contact patch and less grip and even tyres may lift off the floor. (personal experience).

Wheels are CE28 replicas (yes, cos I can't afford the real deal). 15 x 6.5 is the size, +35 offest and they weigh approximately 5kg each.

Tyre choice is not the best, but enough for now. They're Toyo Proxes 4, in a 205/50/15 size. Grip at first felt quite good, but there could be several reasons why I feel that it has decreased now. Have actually spun out before from around 100km/h, so there are some rough patches on the tyre were the surface is not quite even. Sometimes I also blame it on the seat? I tend to corner slower since installing the seat as I cannot correctly judge cornering speeds as I used to since I'm only so short and I can't feel or see sh*t in the seat. Considered changing back to stock seat, but after a bit of adjusting and experimenting, the bucket ain't too bad, so that's obviously not tyre related..Hell must be too late when I don't know what I'm saying!
Thanks heaps for the informative reply.
I would have expected the machining to cost more than that, I guess it depends on who you know though.
Hmm it sounds like your experiences with coilovers are exactly what I'm worried about.
I haven't got any problem with replica CE28s, it's not my car haha.
So the Toyo Proxes 4 aren't too good? I'm currently trying to figure out a new set of tyres and I have seen them around a few cars.

MM89
14-06-08, 02:25 PM
Thanks heaps for the informative reply.
I would have expected the machining to cost more than that, I guess it depends on who you know though.
Hmm it sounds like your experiences with coilovers are exactly what I'm worried about.
I haven't got any problem with replica CE28s, it's not my car haha.
So the Toyo Proxes 4 aren't too good? I'm currently trying to figure out a new set of tyres and I have seen them around a few cars.

Currently the coilovers are set to the minimum spring load. So basically sitting at lowest compression. What you can do is buy another set of springs at a lower
spring rate? I take it that it'll provide a softer ride. Set of springs for track, set of springs for DD :P

Having driven RE001s and S Drives, I would recommend these tyres. Proxes 4s were good value for money though at 130/corner when i got em back in January. Should be much cheaper now?

Brum
14-06-08, 07:03 PM
Having driven RE001s and S Drives, I would recommend these tyres. Proxes 4s were good value for money though at 130/corner when i got em back in January. Should be much cheaper now?

that would be correct, RE001's can be had @ 110 ish per corner now in 15x6/6.5 (i think thats the correct width)

MAD
14-06-08, 08:03 PM
Mate, car is looking nice.

and much respect to your previous detailed posts, they show that you have put alot of thought into your project, and it is good to see you doing your own thing with the D.

Keep the good work going man, the end result will be even more satisfactory for you!

MM89
15-06-08, 12:58 PM
that would be correct, RE001's can be had @ 110 ish per corner now in 15x6/6.5 (i think thats the correct width)

in a 205/50/15? Or even 195/50/15? I think I could live with the less width.

MM89
15-06-08, 01:12 PM
Mate, car is looking nice.

and much respect to your previous detailed posts, they show that you have put alot of thought into your project, and it is good to see you doing your own thing with the D.

Keep the good work going man, the end result will be even more satisfactory for you!

cheers for the comment dude, alot more research needs to be done though in regards to a proper setup that will produce the power that i'm trying to achieve. Hondas are known to be b*tches when it comes to the setup combination.

I'll be tracking this car at Winton as soon as it's rebuilt. Never been, but hopefully with that setup i'll be able to get high 1'4x" or low 1'5x" in the dry.

Shiri
24-06-08, 03:30 PM
Keep it up man! One of the best handling civics I've been in!

MM89
13-05-09, 02:18 PM
after a very long break from the roads,
this poor EG should be making a return soon.
photos uploaded soon.

MM89
13-05-09, 02:34 PM
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v3879/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2323356_5168670.jpg

been real lazy with stripping the interior.

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v3879/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2323291_3304271.jpg

new passenger bucket seat acquired.

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v3879/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2323357_4034573.jpg

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v3879/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2323358_430494.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v3879/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2323359_477624.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v3879/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2323360_7636219.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v3879/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2323383_7926284.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v3879/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2323384_2707903.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v362/140/63/678602325/n678602325_1415464_4160.jpg

also got myself some spoon mirrors and a momo tuner steering wheel

Shiri
13-05-09, 06:03 PM
Top work! Looking good... hope to see you at a meet again soon mike!

MM89
13-05-09, 09:51 PM
haha yeah hopefully
you still have yours mate?

MM89
13-05-09, 10:10 PM
some shitty phone camera photos of tonight's progress:

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs036.snc1/4330_87945862325_678602325_2341110_2290944_n.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs036.snc1/4330_87945867325_678602325_2341111_6807261_n.jpg

Run-It-Hard
13-05-09, 10:59 PM
looking good mate, i like where its heading :)

MM89
14-05-09, 01:32 AM
just like to gather some thoughts on weight reduction
as this car will be spending some time on the track,
i would like to have it as light as possible.

currently has
all panels stripped
handbrake console
centre console
driver fixed bucket


and will be reducing more weight from
carbon fibre bonnet
RM01A (9.9kg? in comparison to standard 18.0kg?)
lightweight battery
carpet out


what are people's opinions on other good ways to reduce weight even further

AND

another thing i'm interested in is what can be relocated to the centre or
towards the rear end as most of the weight currently is sitting at the front.

Bang A Dang
14-05-09, 01:42 AM
batt to the rear, remove and construct dash from aluminium?
remove firewall lining etc
look at paul.s's thread
http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?t=9001
thats should help out a little

MM89
14-05-09, 10:45 AM
haha i hate how EGs and mirages and protons all look so
similar...everytime i'm driving at night, i always confuse
one for the other

thanks for the advice
much appreciated

Shiri
14-05-09, 03:23 PM
haha yeah hopefully
you still have yours mate?

nah man it's gone :p ... fill you in another day!

MM89
14-05-09, 03:50 PM
just thought i'd do a lil comparison
between the stock and spoon side mirrors


http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/4788/image021iog.jpg

300g spoon

http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/880/image023a.jpg

1.3kg OEM


so in total, only 2kg shaved off
not much, but it'll eventually add up.

MM89
22-05-09, 01:09 AM
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs004.snc1/4407_90555087325_678602325_2376586_6778648_n.jpg

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v4407/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2376587_1140653.jpg

http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v4407/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2376588_7798876.jpg

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v4407/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2376589_1778525.jpg

MM89
12-06-09, 07:34 PM
Made some more progress since

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v4407/140/63/678602325/n678602325_2385842_8377386.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs082.snc1/4557_96456317325_678602325_2474447_8262787_n.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs102.snc1/4557_96456322325_678602325_2474448_5171112_n.jpg

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs082.snc1/4557_96456332325_678602325_2474450_6866694_n.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs082.snc1/4557_96453537325_678602325_2474407_609293_n.jpg

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs102.snc1/4557_96453532325_678602325_2474406_3728830_n.jpg

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs082.snc1/4557_96453547325_678602325_2474409_4577316_n.jpg

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs102.snc1/4557_96453552325_678602325_2474410_6263206_n.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs082.snc1/4557_96453542325_678602325_2474408_7424285_n.jpg

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs103.snc1/4887_97816272325_678602325_2496558_5196240_n.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs103.snc1/4887_97816282325_678602325_2496560_7769809_n.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs083.snc1/4887_97816277325_678602325_2496559_7441254_n.jpg

MM89
12-06-09, 07:36 PM
btw, Carey, you have a DC2R now???

Shiri
12-06-09, 08:05 PM
Yeh man, how'd you know?

MM89
15-06-09, 10:49 PM
just happened to come across one of your threads on ozhonda
with the youtube link. btw, is the chick in your avatar filo?

TONTON
15-06-09, 11:01 PM
Try B20, even without vtec its still pretty fun, or you can add vtec with some $$$

MM89
16-06-09, 10:57 AM
yeah its going through a B18C Sir-G conversion atm
hence the P72 timing belt. Which is for B18s.
The original D15B had seized after starting her up
after a month and a half without driving.
I'm guessing oil passages may have clogged up or
no oil was getting through and a very loud clonking
noise was developing.