Preparing my car for track use

[ram]

Hey guys

I'll be going to my first track day in the next few months, which I have been waitng to do for ages.

However, at the moment my car is pretty stock with stock rims, suspensions and some dodgy 16" rubber.

I've got a little money to spend, so I thought it'd be a good idea to spend it on :

a) making sure my car doesn't overheat and blow up (I drive a s4 rx7 and i've heard the factory cooling systems arent that great on these)
- larger radiator
- oil cooler

b) tyres
- I recently bought a set of 17" rims so i need tyres to put on them

c) suspension
- KYB AGX shocks and lowering springs

d) gauges
- my stock boost gauge doesn't work so i'll probably one of those, and also oil pressure, engine temp etc

The problem is, I don't have enough money to do all of the above. I can probably manage to do 2 before the track days comes, so I was wondering, for those of you who have been to track days, which mods do you think will be best for me to have a good time while ensuring my car does not blow up? Because I drive a rotary making sure nothing blows is of partciular importance for me.

ALSO, i've heard that its a good idea to change brake fluid, brake pads and oil before heading out to the track? Is that true?

Any help would be great

[narada]

brake fluid on engine oil is a good one!

gauges are good to monitor your car for anything that goes wrong

those would be the best ones i can think of! The rest (Suspension, tyres) arent necessary for a good day out at the track! especially if its your first

as long as you have tread left on your 16s than it should be fine...

is your engine still standard? if so, i doubt you even need a larger radiator =)

[tez]

Get some semi slicks for the 16's (cheaper than getting them for 17's), a good set of brake pads for the track, and most importantly; a helmet.

[Justin Fox]

Just be sure to not go so hard for too many laps. Having gauges is great, oil temp is essential in my opinion, but many don't bother. If you don't have an oil cooler, or oil temp gauge, just make sure to do some cool down laps every 3 hard laps and you should be fine.

You can get better lap times (to some that means more fun) on good tyres and stock suspension, than good suspension with crap tyres.

[zawrilla]

which day were you planning on going sriram??
Also why haven't you shown me your new rims... you work faster than me. I've just ordered a new front lip though.

Pretty much what Justin said is a good idea. I was all fussed about getting new suspension for track so I can have a good handling car on the day/s but then I realised it will be much better to see how much improvements these mods can make over time. So just hit a track day or so on a fairly stock set up and it'll be good to see yourself improve/see the effect of the mods next time.
So IMO just make sure the car is running safe for the day so that you can have a good time on the day.

In a related thought... is it a good idea to change engine oil before...after.. a track day?
And how much wear on brakes would be typically see on track (running standard or close to standard brakes)?

[ram]

Hey yea i was planning on going to the Dec 1st Circuit club day. I think jong said he was going then too? I'm just planning early because i'm uber excited, and i'm also procrastinating from study.

I got 17" Volk Gt-c's, pretty simple. There a bit heavier than my stock rims but they were so cheap I couldnt say no! 8" front, 9" back.

Thanks for the advice guys, I guess gauages are a good idea then. Semi-slicks are out of the question at this time, I've got a few other things I need to do to the car before I start getting that serious about track days. Proabably get an oil cooler and decent tyres too for the track day, that sounds like it'll be enough.

Zaw, I've been told changing oil before tracking your car is a good idea, kinda makes sense. If your going to be thrashing your car you'd wanna be doing it on fresh fluids rather than older stuff. Same applies for brake fluid i guess.

[narada]

those who are super hardcore change their fluids before and after trackdays

to be honest, i change my brake fluids every year, and oil change every 5-10000 kms... depending on what time i have hehe...

i have a stock car still, and like justin said, i dont bother with gauges or anything else for that matter

to put it simple, you dont need to spend all this money, but if you can, then by all means =D

[ram]

those who are super hardcore change their fluids before and after trackdays

to be honest, i change my brake fluids every year, and oil change every 5-10000 kms... depending on what time i have hehe...

i have a stock car still, and like justin said, i dont bother with gauges or anything else for that matter

to put it simple, you dont need to spend all this money, but if you can, then by all means =D

Fair enough! I do like to baby my car though haha

I will eventually get all of the above stuff for my car, but becuase some of them are more aesthetic than functional I thought i'd see which would be more useful for me in the near future.

cheers narada!

PS did you get my email?

[VTECMACHINE]

It's almost impossible to find semi's for 16 inch rims. Apart from Kumho V700, which aren't too bad. Much better than street tyres, but shit for race tyres.

If I were you, i'd get some nice oil (if it's hot - 10W-50 or the likes), and some gauges to monitior your temps. This is the most important especially if you don't wanna harm your baby. Next best thing would definately be an Oil cooler!!! get a good one tho, or it might leak, or cause low oil pressure. and then POP!
Get Oil temp, Oil pressure guages. Temp will be an issue, considering your driving a Turbo.

[zawrilla]

to add to this again... if i'm running my car on near stock boost 9psi - 180sx... would I really be wanting/needing a fmic for a track day? I will eventually get one but would it be necessary or would doing cool down laps work well enough, provided i'm boosting fairly low.

[narada]

FMICs are generally for increased power right? It cools the air going into your intake meaning more power due to added density if im correct...

so in saying that, no, you dont need one... they might even make your car harder to drive (more power, more wheelspin hehe)... but more power is always fun =D

[narada]

oh ram, ill reply your email soon! didnt get to check last night/this morning

[zawrilla]

what are the details for december 1 circuit club day narada?? Where do we sign up

[ram]

oh ram, ill reply your email soon! didnt get to check last night/this morning

No worries!

Thanks Ricki, will definitely look into gettin gauges and a cooler. Just gotta find who makes good ones for my car.

[Gorilla]

Being an older rotary, I would definatley change the engine oil

Change brake flueid to at least 5.1

Put your stock 16" wheels on.

Maybe change diff and transmission oil too

Check radiator fluid, ideally flush it out and add new coolant.

Some higher temp pads, try greenstuff, good things for the beginner

Also, do 2 hot laps and cool down one.

Remember rotaries do drink oil so keep an eye in it, maybe carry some with you, aswell as radiant coolant.

Go out and have fun, no point putting semis on as i gurantee (if you push hard enough) you will spin out!

[VTECMACHINE]

Umm you might want to pay Earls a visit. Trust should most likely have one for your car... i'm using a trust kit.

Earls in quite exxy, but worth every penny. Just like ARC... they are amazing... but veeryyy expensive! You get what you pay for tho, and an oil cooler is not something you want to 'save' on! Neither are gauges. i wouldn;t trust anything else but Defi.

[narada]

the details for the trackday arent up yet, and nobody is booked in. The event is going ahead 100%, just there has been a couple of changes pop up in the past couple of weeks that we need to clarify.

best bet is to send me an email first, that way i can reply to you as soon as its ready to go!

[zawrilla]

the details for the trackday arent up yet, and nobody is booked in. The event is going ahead 100%, just there has been a couple of changes pop up in the past couple of weeks that we need to clarify.

best bet is to send me an email first, that way i can reply to you as soon as its ready to go!

OK, no worries, I'll get onto that later.

[tuspeed]

First on the list would be look at your brakes - they cop an absolute beating on the track. Get yourself some good pads (Endless, Ferodo, Hawk all have good track offerings) and change your brake fluid (Endless RF650 and Martini GS610 are my two favourites, although Motul RBF600 is also very good and well priced)

If you're due for a set of tyres have a look at something like a set of Falken Azenis RT615 - they're a R spec tyre but on the street side of the scale so you can use them for everyday driving as well. They have nice big chunky outside blocks so are better at copping a beating without falling apart.

Definitely do an oil change before you head out there. Also consider gearbox and diff oils as well. Fill up with good fuel before you hit the track. Take a bottle of drinking water with you as well. When you get to the track don't worry too much about how fast you are - just take it easy, learn the track, find out where your braking points are and keep it smooth. Then work up the pace - brake later etc etc...

[Babalouie]

I reckon your biggest risk is that your radiator may be clogged and so you might overheat. A bigger rad would fix this of course, but since your motor is stock, I would say that a restored stock radiator would do the job. Your engine already has a huge oil cooler underneath the rad btw.

Getting the stock radiator inspected and cleaned out will prolly cost about $200 or so. Also make sure that all of the plastic ducting and panels in front of the radiator are still in place. The FC has the radiator in a weird spot, and so if the stock plastic panels have been removed, then the incoming air can just go around the radiator instead of thru it.

Apart from that, the only other reliability things would be (as many have said) to change your brake fluid, and inspect your pads to see that you have at least 4-5mm of meat left. And you should get a boost gauge anyway and we've talked about before and what Justin said is good advice, if you keep your hot laps to only 5 at a time, then that will keep the temps down and the car happy. And never come into the pits without a cooldown lap. If you're still having probs with temps, turn your heater on full bore to give the engine some extra cooling (not so cool for you unfortunately) :)

And that's it really, that will take care of the car (you've just had a service recently anyway), just go out there and have fun :D

[ram]

Thanks guys

Kev~Yea i was just doing some reading of my own and it seems the stock oil cooler is enough to handle quite alot, so thats good news! The bad news is, as you said, the stock raditator is quite hopeless. But $200 is not bad, definitely less than i'd been budgeting for.

Is changing brake fluid a big job, is it something I can easily DIY? Same with brake pads?

[Babalouie]

Changing fluid is a 2 man job but if you have a few bucks in the budget I would recommend you buy a set of these: www.speedbleeder.com which makes it a pretty easy one man job (also get the optional bag and hose). Pads are also easy to change once you know how (the hard part is jacking up the car). :)

[narada]

bleeding brakes is very do-able with two people DIY, but its so easy to get it wrong and put an air bubble in your brake leads! just be careful cos once you get one of those, you wont stop on track all of a sudden! haha

but just in case it does happen, just try and keep pumping the brakes until you can stop again (and dont panic!)

[VTECMACHINE]

Go visit Ben@ Touge tune. He changed my brake fluid. WOW!!! that's all I have to say. The old school way of doing things are heaps better.

Same break set up, felt 10 time betters with worse fluid.

[rusty1]

FMICs are generally for increased power right? It cools the air going into your intake meaning more power due to added density if im correct...

so in saying that, no, you dont need one... they might even make your car harder to drive (more power, more wheelspin hehe)... but more power is always fun =D

FMIC are more about reducing intake temps to starve off detonation and do offer a slight increase in power but will also increase lag. Heat is the killer of turbo cars and hot induction temps can be adressed with CAI and FMIC's which improve the reliability factor paticularly in summer and on track days.

If you are doing a track day with a stock IC then keep the boost down; more boost=more heat:cool: :cool:

[4agte]

i would dfefinatley get the guages fixed and buy tyres and if you can afford it a larger oil cooler if you can keep the engine oil temps down then not as much heat will be transferred to the water plus it makes things last longer

fwiw i would spend less and buy cheaper tyres cause its your first time to the track you should focous more on learning the lines how to brake etc etc not setting a sub 1 min time

[DrewMan]

You can get better lap times (to some that means more fun) on good tyres and stock suspension, than good suspension with crap tyres.



Tein flex on Nangkang tyres ftw!

[scathing]

My suggestion is to do a full fluid flush before you go to the track, especially if it hasn't been changed for a while.

Since you're a track novice, don't bother with semi slicks. Having that much grip just masks driving deficiencies (see the quote from me in VTECMACHINE's sig). Drive on relatively bad tyres (the Nankang NSII's are a cheap tyre that can handle a lot of abuse, and grip reasonably but not well), that you can afford to destroy, and learn how to detect a car at its limit and how to drive it there at a lower speed before you start trying to do it fast.

[ram]

Hey guys great advice~

re oil cooler: The stock oil cooler in the FC has actually turned out to be quite competent, however the radiator isn't. So i'll be either flushing or replacing it with a bigger one come track time...

Also, I've decided to go with getting:
- Gauages (boost, oil pressure, temp and maybe engine temp). Have no idea where to mount them though.

- Tyres: Adrenelins? I seem to be hearing nothing but praise for these and they are reasonably cheap. However, i'm still open to idea's with this, I will consider getting the nankangs becuase I like the idea of getting used to my car on crappy tyres and then upgrading later.

- chaning brake fluid and oil. Maybe some of the others too if I find good DIYs for them :D

- Brake Pads. I don't mind forking out for these, Endless seem to be quite good

And thats it! (for the track day anyway)

I'm pretty happy with that, in the end I think i'll end up spending alot less than what I had initially budgeted for.

[zawrilla]

what are we looking at for a good set of brake pads and machining rotors??

[Nobbsy]

For Good pads expect to pay $2-400 (or like thousands if you're rickey and get CCXes) plus around $20 a corner to get rotors machined

[Babalouie]

For your car you'll only need a boost gauge. Oil press, etc aren't so critical and are harder to mount because you have to stick a sensor somewhere in the oil system. Water temp is not a bad idea, and is easy to mount, it's easy to just put a sensor adapter into the radiator hose, but to be honest it's not a biggie.

Endless SSM are good road/occasional track pads ut to be honest if it's your first few times on the track Bendix Ultimates will do just fine.

[arron]

Hey chris and shiram, here are most of the things I did to prepare for the track.. (I'm quite sure I briefly went through what you need for the track with Jong and Chris about it at Homers cafe)

PRE-TRACKDAY:

-Fluid Change (Engine Oil, Gearbox, Radiator Coolant, Brake fluid at least)
-Brake Pad (At least 5mm)
-Gauges (Not necessary but if you can afford them, go for them)
-Tyres (At least 50% tread, Front Left tyre gets a caning at Wakefield. Semi-slicks are for wankers :P)
-Tyre Pressure (Highway Air Pressure, mine is around 38PSI hot)
-Helmet (I have a cheap open-face helmet, I don't expect it to save my life if I crash)
-Empty and clean your car of any loose items

AT THE TRACKDAY:

-Buy some water for the day (You really do get dehydrated)
-Fill up your fuel tanks
-Lower your tyre pressures (Play around with tyre pressures at the trackday to see which works better for you, I have a tyre press. gauge and there's a public air pump at Wakefield)
-Take out spare tyre + tools
-Take out rear seats if you want to be hardcore
-Tighten your nuts (both the wheels and yours)
-Spend warm up lap warming your tyres
-Fang it and have fun
-Cooldown lap after every 3 hard laps

POST-TRACKDAY:
-Tyre Pressure (Highway mode)
-Change your brake fluid and engine oil ASAP (I was using a cheaper dot 5.1 brake fluid so my brake pedal felt really mushy afterwards so a change was necessary. If you buy top-dollar brake fluid, I don't think that you will get this from just after one trackday)
-Brag about your laptimes on JDMST and to your friends

I can't wait til the December Circuit Club.. You guys (Jong, Zaw, Ro and Shiram) better come this time and not dog it!

[VTECMACHINE]

For Good pads expect to pay $2-400 (or like thousands if you're rickey and get CCXes) plus around $20 a corner to get rotors machined

hahaha...

I cannot do anything else but PRAISE the Endless CC-X pads. However, they are a carbon ceramic compound, and DO NOT bite hard on a NON carbon ceramic Rotor.
Project Mu SCR-PRO rotors with endless CC-X FTW!

Arron some good brake fluid last a long time. OEM crap, stuffed over after my first track day. Then I used some castrol stuff.. exxy but AMAZING!!!, then I used Motul RBF6000 of what ever it is... and that was umm okayish. Not the best at all really...

[Dave R]

stock pads, disks FTW!

Lol...

do fluid flush and replacement of oil & oil filter... b4 and after track day, would be ur best bet!

also get a oil cooler... i just got one and cant wait 2 try it out (will do this sunday at wakie)

also keep a eye on ur tyre pressures... i run 34'C hot on my R888s(205/50/R15), if u do get semi slicks i would suggest a baffled sump....

Dont forget to use the warm up and cool down laps, they are very important for ur car... if u wona keep it working in good condition that is :P

Aswell as dont pull up ur handbrake when u get in 2 the pits after ur few laps, alot of ppl do this! and it causes the pads 2 stick n shit.. just put it in gear...

most importantly HAVE FUN! :p

but yer, basic things like checking ur cars fluid levels and stuff is always good 2 do after each seasion....

[4agte]

-Lower your tyre pressures (Play around with tyre pressures at the trackday to see which works better for you, I have a tyre press. gauge and there's a public air pump at Wakefield)



some very good points arron

probably the simplest and most overlook mod you can do that will save your tyres and improve your lap times

given that the front left tyre in particular gets a beating at wakefiel you can run less pressure in that tyre because that tyre will heat up more than the others

[zawrilla]

thanks arron.. yeah i REALLY want to go to this coming one.... the only thing that might stop me is I'm going to be driving up to Forster in that week..maybe even on that day so I have to see how that stuff turns out

[arron]

thanks arron.. yeah i REALLY want to go to this coming one.... the only thing that might stop me is I'm going to be driving up to Forster in that week..maybe even on that day so I have to see how that stuff turns out

u suck arse if you go to Forster

[ram]

haha yea Zaw screw Forster stop being whipped. Anywa, once again some great advice.

Arron: I will be there fo' sho. I'm already excited haha. Me and Jong arew gonna have a show down. I hope we both stay on the track..

OH yea and Clint will probably be coming too

[zawrilla]

well I'm going to try and push the dates for going to forster back to like the 3rd or 4th. so it gives me a good day or two t recover and change stuff over on car.

[OVTEC]

sorry to steal the thread but when it comes to gauges, ive been looking at Defi ones they seem really good but are very expensive, what other brands do you guys recommend, are Saber Gauges good because they seem like good bang for buck gauges.

Cheers
Steven

[j0nbubz]

Buy defi... bite the bullet and cry that u spent so much money..

you won't regret it =)

[Nobbsy]

I just find it neigh on impossible to justify spending that much on a set of gauges. Yes they have memory...wow, for the price of them i could buy an aftermarket ECU and then just plug in a laptop and datalog everything...and then i'd have an ECU to show for it!

[CaptainColen]

Which gauges are absolutely necessary? Aftermarket boost/oil temp/air fuel ratio?

[arron]

For track use I'd say:

-boost
-oil temp
-oil pressure
-water temp

[OVTEC]

yea ive decided to ditch the gauges, no money and its not like my lil crx is gonna overheat or anything coz atm its mainly steet use

id rather invest and do a fluid flush to maintain my engine rather than to monitor it with gauges :)

anyways thanks for the advice guys :)

[4agte]

I just find it neigh on impossible to justify spending that much on a set of gauges. Yes they have memory...wow, for the price of them i could buy an aftermarket ECU and then just plug in a laptop and datalog everything...and then i'd have an ECU to show for it!

well they also have warning alarms when say oil pressure is low etc and you can look at them while your going round to see where everything is at alltho if you have a good enuf ecu then you can set up a idiot light for things like oil pressure etc

[OVTEC]

ok guys refreshing this thread because ive commited to the track day on anzac day

ive decided on a new set of RDA slotted rotors

still deciding on brake pads, looking at bleeding my brakes also so some new fluid is required

im still deciding if gauges are necessary im going to have to go with Saber Gauges though, cant afford Defi just yet

changing engine oil is not a problem

looking at flushing my radiator (cheap and simple)

tyre wise i have a set of Khumo Ecstas with about 60% tread left so i think they'll be ok for the day

i have a helmet already and also a honda racing suit :P

anything else you guys recommend for my crx, what are some other precautions i should take into consideration so my car doesnt die on the track

[VTECMACHINE]

yea ive decided to ditch the gauges, no money and its not like my lil crx is gonna overheat or anything coz atm its mainly steet use

id rather invest and do a fluid flush to maintain my engine rather than to monitor it with gauges :)

anyways thanks for the advice guys :)

Hell no H2O..

Little Honda motors REVVVV, and they get veryy hot! Be careful dude! Invest in some guages, if your going to be tracking your vehicular transportation.

[Keven]

I didn't think my little POS 1600 would overheat, but after 4 hard laps, the oil was peaking over 100deg and the water wasn't far behind it. Getting back on track though, being a rotary, even in stock form they suffer from heat really really badly. The FC-S5 have great oil coolers, i'm not sure if the S4 has the same. Give everything a nice clean out (cooling system and oil system) and maybe if you can get an frp bonnet with a drop vent in. There is no point having nice pads/tyres/suspension if the car over heats every 3 laps.

Gauges are a must as they let you know whats going on under the bonnet. Go for more accurate rather than showy if you can (or want)

Other than that, if this is one of your first times out, or still getting to know the track than you wont need much else.

[Babalouie]

ok guys refreshing this thread because ive commited to the track day on anzac day

ive decided on a new set of RDA slotted rotors

still deciding on brake pads, looking at bleeding my brakes also so some new fluid is required

im still deciding if gauges are necessary im going to have to go with Saber Gauges though, cant afford Defi just yet

changing engine oil is not a problem

looking at flushing my radiator (cheap and simple)

tyre wise i have a set of Khumo Ecstas with about 60% tread left so i think they'll be ok for the day

i have a helmet already and also a honda racing suit :P

anything else you guys recommend for my crx, what are some other precautions i should take into consideration so my car doesnt die on the track

Nah don't worry about gauges. Monster's right though, in that after 4 really hard laps the oil will be pretty hot....but so will the tyres and the brakes. The easy way to manage this is simply to only do 2-3 really hard laps at a time, then back off a bit and let the temps come back into range. Go out and hammer the car for 30mins without a break and everything will be massively overtemp after the first 10mins and you start to wear things out very fast. BTW one way to take the edge off the engine temp is to run the heater full blast.

I wouldn't worry about rotors unless yours are below spec for thickness, but make sure you have at least 5mm brake pad material, and the most important thing is a brake fluid bleed and flush with good fluid. IMHO you don't have to go all out with super expensive fluid, it's a little like oil in that as long as it's fresh and clean then there's not much in it.

Engine oil change is not a bad idea...but make sure that all the trans has enough oil in it too btw.

Flushing the radiator is not a bad idea but if it's really clogged up then flushing it isn't going to help. If you can reach the front of your radiator, then when the car's up to temp, touch the various fins and see if there is a spot which is colder than the rest. That will be where it is clogged.

Also get a front and rear wheel alignment, although in Hondas it's not really all that adjustable...but if the alignment is off, then your car will either not handle or it will wear tyres out quite fast.

Just go out there and enjoy it is basically what I am saying.

[eug4emi]

Speaking about alignment, Sydney has the worst roads to keep your alignment good :(

[OVTEC]

yea im changing rotors due to be changed so i might as well change to slotted rotors

gauges, still a bit indecisive but will most likely get it

and yes planning on brake pads with the car being serviced tomorrow anyways and i should be bleeding them later during the week with a friend of mine

but yes i will definately keep in mind a cool down lap ever 2-3 laps

[Hens]

yea im changing rotors due to be changed so i might as well change to slotted rotors

gauges, still a bit indecisive but will most likely get it

and yes planning on brake pads with the car being serviced tomorrow anyways and i should be bleeding them later during the week with a friend of mine

but yes i will definately keep in mind a cool down lap ever 2-3 laps

rotors can be standard but good pads are what is important on the track.
crap pads just burn up on the track.

for a light car like yours EBC green stuff is bang for buck.

[ram]

Seeing as thouhg I started this thread let me share with you with I ended up doing on my first trackday.

Firstly though, listen to Babs. His advice will save you money.

I would also say that unless you NEED to change your rotors due to damage or something, you'd be better off pocketing your money or spending it on some other mods.

All I did was change my brake pads and change the oil. I had the shittest tyres on my car as well and I still had a ball. Incidentally I used Bendix Ultimates and they seemed to be fine, I got them from Race Brakes Sydney in Wetherill Park for like 120 a pair.

Since my first track day though I have changed a few other things. I upgraded my clutch to an Exedy HD because they get hammered at the track. I also installed gauges which I have found to be very useful. Transmission fluid is another biggy.

If your budget extends a bit further, I would say aquality bucket seat would be a good buy too.

But seriously, you will have a great day with just an oil change, 98 RON petrol and some good brake pads.

[4agte]

best thing you can do is take some oil and water with you.

oil for the car water for you and enjoy the day

[OVTEC]

sweet!!!

thanks for the advice guys :)

i think i know what im going to do now

and i already have a bucket seat :D:D:D:D:D

[rusty1]

Another overlooked budget item but well worth it is a fire extinguisher.

If your going to be pushing your car or for just everyday safety its a worth while investment;) ;)

[4agte]

only problem is most dry powder fire extinguishers do squat to oil fires unless you have a 20kg one or something you better off getting to a fire marshal or a point where there is a proper extinguisher

[OVTEC]

Another overlooked budget item but well worth it is a fire extinguisher.

If your going to be pushing your car or for just everyday safety its a worth while investment;) ;)

yea already have one :)

i feel a lot more prepared now, thanks for all your help guys :)

[d-mag]

As 4agte said, keep your own fluids up too. Much overlooked, but much needed.

[chris86]

is it a good idea to overfill the transmission fluid just slightly for track days?

[Dave R]

overfill nothing..

just check ur engine oil and other fluids after each session...

[4agte]

is it a good idea to overfill the transmission fluid just slightly for track days?

there is a reason that you only fill things up to full not to overfull

[Babalouie]

is it a good idea to overfill the transmission fluid just slightly for track days?

No. In some vee engines it's a good idea to overfill the engine oil and with live axle cars (eg hachi) it's a good idea to overfill the diff oil, but generally for normal cars it's not a good idea. And not for the trans either.

[rusty1]

only problem is most dry powder fire extinguishers do squat to oil fires unless you have a 20kg one or something you better off getting to a fire marshal or a point where there is a proper extinguisher

True but something is better than nothing and I guess thats why Cams puts it down as one of there mandatory regulations for motor sport:) :)

[Babalouie]

True but something is better than nothing and I guess thats why Cams puts it down as one of there mandatory regulations for motor sport:) :)

Yes but you might end up lifting the bonnet, getting 3rd degree burns to your body, then realise that the extinguisher does nussink :D in which case you will feel a little cheated I'll wager :D

In case of fire....RUN.

[Mr Happ]

i always like to run a little extra engine oil......have it right at the top of the full range on the dipstick. If you dont have a big sump or baffles it will help prevent mid corner oil starvation. Likewise, with a turbo car i'd like to keep fuel above 1/3 tank to prevent fuel surge.

[Bang A Dang]

this thread is VERY informative... thanks god i joined this forum!

[Hens]

i always like to run a little extra engine oil......have it right at the top of the full range on the dipstick. If you dont have a big sump or baffles it will help prevent mid corner oil starvation. Likewise, with a turbo car i'd like to keep fuel above 1/3 tank to prevent fuel surge.

same here.
especially on semi slicks in big G corners.

[Mr Happ]

another couple of points....

on track the two gauges to look at are water temperature (all cars have them) and oil pressure (only some cars do). Failing that you will have an engine/oil warning light. Keep your eye on these.

to start with 4-5 laps of WP at a time are good........come in check things out and then head back out.

A couple of tricks re water temp.....

1. you can run your heater at full - the heater works by drawing heat from the coolant. At the very least this will slow down the over heating process, depends on the car as to how effective this is, but it does work.

2. If you are following a car/s closely this interupts the airflow into the intercooler/radiator. You will run cooler with clean air - so get around them or give them half a lap.....its surprising how quick temps can come down if you get clean air in and stay out of the throttle.

[llama_au]

Strange. I've never seen my water temp gauge move higher than normal, and my oil temp has never gone over 90'C. Even if I sit on 7,000rpm for nearly all of a 20 minute session. Interesting that stock cars should overheat, mine's nothing like stock, I'm running an undersized radiator, a massive FMIC, two transmission coolers, air-con condensor and no oil cooler. But the tips above are good :)

Also, don't put your handbrake on when you're in the pits and try to keep your foot off the brake while stopped after a session. I warped my rotors nicely after doing this. Keep making sure your wheel nuts are tight and don't over-inflate your tyres.

[Mr Happ]

Also, don't put your handbrake on when you're in the pits and try to keep your foot off the brake while stopped after a session. I warped my rotors nicely after doing this.

ahhh yes, this is one is a classic.....easy to forget though!

[llama_au]

Yeah I forgot after I'd specifically been told not to. I learnt though :lol:

[Serial Killa]

Yeah I forgot after I'd specifically been told not to. I learnt though :lol:

haha yes im glad i was told about this one early on!!

I like to remove my back seats simply because i can fit a full set of semis in there :cool:

[VTECMACHINE]

Almost forgot...

Don't forgot your....














































....VTEC CONTROLLLLEERRRRR


http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/3968/vtecconrollerix3.jpg

[Bang A Dang]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! awesome post!

[OVTEC]

ok guys heres what ive decided

EBC Green Stuff - $200 for set

RDA Slotted Rotors - $320 for set

Saber Gauges (water + oil temp, oil Press.) - $330 <- (still considering if i can afford gauges)

Circuitclub - $180

Total = $1030

[VTECMACHINE]

ok guys heres what ive decided

EBC Green Stuff - $200 for set

RDA Slotted Rotors - $320 for set

Saber Gauges (water + oil temp, oil Press.) - $330 <- (still considering if i can afford gauges)

Circuitclub - $180

Total = $1030

$320 for all 4 rotors?? Or just fronts? Because that's quite exxy man.

If your spending $200 for EBC pads, why not go Project Mu. They are better!

[OVTEC]

yea its $320 for all 4 rotors

and about the pads ill have a look into them, everyone has been recommending EBC greenstuff

also would it be a better choice to get pads + rotors or just the pads?

[VTECMACHINE]

EBC greenstuff, I can't stand them! They don't bite. IMO gay.

I wouldn't go anything else but Endless pads now, but Ben from Touge Land has just converted me. I would personally go with Project Mu if on a bit of a budget. Speak to Ben, he will be able to hook you up - as he gets pads quick smart (had a pair of CC-X for me in 2 days - talk about overnight parts from Japan) and for a resonable price too.

I would just stick with Stock rotors if they are fine. Or if they are warped, machine them or replace them.

[Keven]

Strange. I've never seen my water temp gauge move higher than normal, and my oil temp has never gone over 90'C. Even if I sit on 7,000rpm for nearly all of a 20 minute session. Interesting that stock cars should overheat, mine's nothing like stock, I'm running an undersized radiator, a massive FMIC, two transmission coolers, air-con condensor and no oil cooler. But the tips above are good :)

Also, don't put your handbrake on when you're in the pits and try to keep your foot off the brake while stopped after a session. I warped my rotors nicely after doing this. Keep making sure your wheel nuts are tight and don't over-inflate your tyres.

We need to talk then, if your able to keep stable temps for 20 mins, esp in a turbo, esp at 7000rpm... please help!!!

[ram]

gauges > rotors

[Babalouie]

We need to talk then, if your able to keep stable temps for 20 mins, esp in a turbo, esp at 7000rpm... please help!!!

I think it may be the case that the stock Pulsar temp gauge has a big "dead spot" in the middle of the range, ie the temp goes 78, 79, 80 and then the needle stays in the same spot as the temp rises and doesn't move again until 110, 111, 112, etc.

Stock temp gauges are that way so that ppl don't get freaked out by constant movements in water temp (otherwise you would see fluctuations when the car sits idle compared to when it's moving).

But downside is that when the gauge starts to move beyond the "normal" position, it's 99% of the way to overheating already.

[VTECMACHINE]

Interesting babs. That's the same with all water temp guages yeh? cos the stock ITR water temp sits contant, as the Defi flucuates alot.

[Hens]

ok guys heres what ive decided

EBC Green Stuff - $200 for set

RDA Slotted Rotors - $320 for set

Saber Gauges (water + oil temp, oil Press.) - $330 <- (still considering if i can afford gauges)

Circuitclub - $180

Total = $1030

you could just get ordinary gauges if you are on a budget.
maybe ones that Monster recommend a while back from General Auto Instruments. Lidcombe.
they are just there to help you determine how your temps are.
when oil temps starts to rocket then you know when to back off. usually on the 2nd or 3rd hard lap anyhow.

combined with common sense you'll be set.

dude i can get you RDA slotteds for under $250
Also Greenstuff can be had for $150-160 easy. Speak to Matt from Race Brakes Sydney.

I can help you source parts, just let me know.

[Hens]

Interesting babs. That's the same with all water temp guages yeh? cos the stock ITR water temp sits contant, as the Defi flucuates alot.

Stock gauges are meant to sit constant once at operating temp.
If the stock one moves up from normal position means straight away that water is getting too hot.

[VTECMACHINE]

Iced, how much can you get me DBA or RDA slotted for the rear - nothing fancy, just the average type ones?

[zawrilla]

brake pro in parra/north parra did some pretty decent prices for me when I went to get some brake pads off them last time before the December track day. Pretty much what Iced said.. about $160 for EBC greenstuff. But don't tell him you're going to take it out to track, because then he gets a bit worried and starts recommending things that'll burn your wallet faster than your brake pads.

[llama_au]

We need to talk then, if your able to keep stable temps for 20 mins, esp in a turbo, esp at 7000rpm... please help!!!

I'm not sure how, I'm running the 1.6L N/A radiator on a 2.0L Turbo, and I have a 600x300x76-sized FMIC in the way, air-con condenser and one of my transmission coolers blocking the radiator. I also now have a larger turbo sitting not that far away . I honestly don't know how it runs such good temps, maybe the radiator is something Nissan went overkill on?

I'll see if I change my mind when I get Defi's. As far as I know the oil temp is correct, but who knows. It's certainly never shown signs of overheating but fark, touch any part of my engine bay after a short drive and you will walk away with burns :P

I've been meaning to do more track days but the hot weather has made me paranoid so I'm waiting for it to cool down.


I think it may be the case that the stock Pulsar temp gauge has a big "dead spot" in the middle of the range, ie the temp goes 78, 79, 80 and then the needle stays in the same spot as the temp rises and doesn't move again until 110, 111, 112, etc.

Stock temp gauges are that way so that ppl don't get freaked out by constant movements in water temp (otherwise you would see fluctuations when the car sits idle compared to when it's moving).

But downside is that when the gauge starts to move beyond the "normal" position, it's 99% of the way to overheating already.

Yes it does. But if it doesn't move there's nothing to worry about :) I want DEFI's soon just for piece of mind.

I get freaked out by other people's cars. A relatively stock S15 I went in would start overheating after 2 laps, you could watch the temp gauge move from half-way to nearly the top in a matter of 20 seconds.

[OVTEC]

you could just get ordinary gauges if you are on a budget.
maybe ones that Monster recommend a while back from General Auto Instruments. Lidcombe.
they are just there to help you determine how your temps are.
when oil temps starts to rocket then you know when to back off. usually on the 2nd or 3rd hard lap anyhow.

combined with common sense you'll be set.

dude i can get you RDA slotteds for under $250
Also Greenstuff can be had for $150-160 easy. Speak to Matt from Race Brakes Sydney.

I can help you source parts, just let me know.

we'll talk on msn :)

[VTECMACHINE]

llama_au, I wouldn't risk that dude. I doubt your car has super powers.

[fatboyz39]

ok guys heres what ive decided

EBC Green Stuff - $200 for set

RDA Slotted Rotors - $320 for set

Saber Gauges (water + oil temp, oil Press.) - $330 <- (still considering if i can afford gauges)

Circuitclub - $180

Total = $1030

Before all of that...Do a minor service, i.e oil, oil filter, clean air filter, check sparks, leads, fuel filter, check pad level, check all suspension bolts and etc.

After that.... pay the 180 for CC and have fun. Just take 2-3 hot laps then do cool down laps.

Other then that, have fun and drive it home!

[OVTEC]

yea will be getting it serviced soon, its due for one anyway

and yea i will be doing a lot of minor check ups prior to the day

but thanks for your help guys :)

[chris86]

I get freaked out by other people's cars. A relatively stock S15 I went in would start overheating after 2 laps, you could watch the temp gauge move from half-way to nearly the top in a matter of 20 seconds.

My temperature gauge (S15 stock) never budged from the middle of the gauge throughout the entire time I've driven the car. Not even when I've done 3 hard laps at wakefield. Although I did put the heater on full blast once I got off the track and left the car.

[llama_au]

llama_au, I wouldn't risk that dude. I doubt your car has super powers.

It doesn't. But it mustn't be getting that hot. Want Defi's :(

[Hens]

My temperature gauge (S15 stock) never budged from the middle of the gauge throughout the entire time I've driven the car. Not even when I've done 3 hard laps at wakefield. Although I did put the heater on full blast once I got off the track and left the car.

up boost to 1bar :)

[lukecivic]

great thread! heaps to learn in here

look like i need to do somthing about my brakes before i hit the track i guess...

[TERRA Operative]

Don't forget a CAMS approved fire extinguisher.

You never know.....

[lukecivic]

wheres good place to buy a helmet? and what price range am i looking at for a decent one?

[tez]

Interesting babs. That's the same with all water temp guages yeh? cos the stock ITR water temp sits contant, as the Defi flucuates alot.

Maybe for most jap cars.
My pug is happy to tell me that its about 2degrees away from boiling the coolant.....at which case the radiator fans go nuts.

[Hens]

wheres good place to buy a helmet? and what price range am i looking at for a decent one?

parra near the station side theres a store on the corner of church st down the road from the Irish Pub.
or perhaps bikebiz in parra too.

[lukecivic]

parra near the station side theres a store on the corner of church st down the road from the Irish Pub.
or perhaps bikebiz in parra too.

that works pefectly for me :D
ive been walking past that shop to go to work every day recently:D

[llama_au]

wheres good place to buy a helmet? and what price range am i looking at for a decent one?

Motorbike place. I paid $150 for mine, full faced, fibreglass, conforms to everything.

[4agte]

yup motorbike place it dosent have to be anything special should be able to get something for 100 buks just cry poor and ask the guy for a discount

[rusty1]

Don't forget a CAMS approved fire extinguisher.

You never know.....

I mentioned that earlier in the thread, but was subsquently challenged on its viability:-o

[Dave R]

just remember its not just preparing your car, its preparing yourself...

you got 2 remember that there is a real possibility of going off, and even at wakefield one of the safest tracks in Australia, there is a chance of damaging ur car... i went of at oran park just yesterday in NSW SS, and car almost flipped, you got 2 be prepared and 2 know that there is possible risk 2 urself and possible risk 2 damage you're car...

that is all :P

[4agte]

just remember its not just preparing your car, its preparing yourself...

you got 2 remember that there is a real possibility of going off, and even at wakefield one of the safest tracks in Australia, there is a chance of damaging ur car... i went of at oran park just yesterday in NSW SS, and car almost flipped, you got 2 be prepared and 2 know that there is possible risk 2 urself and possible risk 2 damage you're car...

that is all :P

yeah when you go off into the gravel try to make sure the steering wheel is straight and if at all possible the car is

also when you spin put both feet in it may save you from someone else cleaning you up when you spin uncontrolably

[OVTEC]

o0o0o a really good point there Dave R and Marty

[Dave R]

yes as marty said, go in straight, if u go in sidways there is a higher risk of flipping, also when you lose it and u know u cant catch it, the best thing 2 do is get on the brakes, u would be surprised how quick u can stop ur car.. better then trying 2 power out or do something stupid and hitting a wall...

[llama_au]

Yeah, brakes ftw. I managed massive lift-off oversteer at about 160kmp/h (too fast for a nearly 90' corner haha), got into a 720' spin, hard on the brakes, pulled up still on the track. Brakes are your friend.

[4agte]

Yeah, brakes ftw. I managed massive lift-off oversteer at about 160kmp/h (too fast for a nearly 90' corner haha), got into a 720' spin, hard on the brakes, pulled up still on the track. Brakes are your friend.

and 4 flat spotted tyres no doubt hahahhaha

[llama_au]

No actually. But I did melt the outsides of the tyres on said day. Still tonnes of tread.

[EGG80X]

I paid $350 buck for my brand new sparco helmet.... but then again I know the sparco distributor lol

[Serial Killa]

$80 for an RJays at Motorcycle Accessories shop in Parra

[rodent]

I paid $350 buck for my brand new sparco helmet.... but then again I know the sparco distributor lol

I'll be contacting you shortly :cool:

[lukecivic]

I paid $350 buck for my brand new sparco helmet.... but then again I know the sparco distributor lol

ill be contacting you aswell :D

[lukecivic]

replaced my very black clutch fluid with some motul 600 just then
can deffinately feel the difference...next up brake fluid

[striken2o]

*bump*

great thread for track noobies
will be taking alot from this thread before my first track day

[MR2]

ditto, only useful thing to add to this is greenshit (EBC) are evil crappy pads, I don't care how much your car weighs..go redstuff anyday (if it has to be EBC)...

if your car has ODB or some such logging, a laptop or palm logger would be cool :)

[llama_au]

I have Defi's now, but haven't done a track day with them in. In normal driving my water temp sits between 80-90'C (gets up to 100'C on a 45'C day lol) and oil temp between 80-100'C. Pressure is very good. Yay for accurate Defi's. Worried about what sort of temps I'll register now that I can actually monitor them properly.

[Run-It-Hard]

Great read!

good to know, not leaving the handbrake up in the pits!

just curious, how many warm/cooldown laps should we do before we go hard again? (i'm guessing until temp is back to normal, but when is that ... 1 lap ...2?)

[VTECMACHINE]

I'm ultra careful with my car, and drive it like little bitch. I take oil temp up to 105-110 maximum. At that point i'll think to myself, its not good to have all this heat for a long period of time with a stock motor, so i'll do one or two cool down laps, then drive into the pits... drive around the parking area, then park my car. I leave it running in the pit garage for 30-60 seconds to let the oil drain down into the sump and turn off the car. Jump out of car, grap tyre pressure gauge and adjust everything.

If you don't have temp gauges, I use the rule, 3 hot laps, 1-2 cool down laps, then 2 hot laps, 1-2 cool down laps - then pit.

[Run-It-Hard]

I'm ultra careful with my car, and drive it like little bitch. I take oil temp up to 105-110 maximum. At that point i'll think to myself, its not good to have all this heat for a long period of time with a stock motor, so i'll do one or two cool down laps, then drive into the pits... drive around the parking area, then park my car. I leave it running in the pit garage for 30-60 seconds to let the oil drain down into the sump and turn off the car. Jump out of car, grap tyre pressure gauge and adjust everything.

If you don't have temp gauges, I use the rule, 3 hot laps, 1-2 cool down laps, then 2 hot laps, 1-2 cool down laps - then pit.

Ok sounds good, how long to you guys tend to wait till you hit the track again?

[Bang A Dang]

next session which could be up to an hour

[scathing]

just curious, how many warm/cooldown laps should we do before we go hard again? (i'm guessing until temp is back to normal, but when is that ... 1 lap ...2?)

The temp will never get "back to normal" while you're on the circuit. Normally every 3-4 laps I'll calm it down for a lap. It lets the car cool down, and allows you to relax a bit compared to going "max attack" chasing a time.

As soon as you go past the checquered flag, do a cool down lap. Depending on the circuit you're on you might also want to see if you can drive it around the pits or out onto the main road to cool it down some more before you park it.

The car will still be hotter than when commuting when you do stop, but you'll have 45-60 mins before your next session, on average.

[ram]

In hindsight, my advice for anyone starting at track would be:

1. Try and use some decent tyres

2. Monitor your car's temp's

2.5 Make sure your brake pads have enough meat

Seriously, that is how easy it is. If you can upgrade anything else then great, but the above is all you need to consider to have a good time :)

[zawrilla]

Firstly Ram.. you can't count. 3 comes after 2 :P

Secondly, I would also say just make sure the car is in good running condition, no leaks, no mechanical repairs required etc. You don't want to have an accident out there and also ruin the track for others (it can be annoying, and also very costly for you).
Don't be lazy and track a car that's got a small problem that can potentially ruin your day. Get it fixed, or wait for the next track day.

[eniryks]

those who are super hardcore change their fluids before and after trackdays
=D

this is me pretty crappy exercise but it is great for finding fatigued components and checking you are not getting excessive engine wear.

[vex33d]

Some great info for a circuit beginner!

Whilst this thread has been revived, I have a question regarding tyre choice.

I've read that as a circuit racing beginner, I should look past semi slicks and look toward decent street tyres?

Any recommendations as to a set of tyres that I should be shopping for that would offer a resonable levels of grip and won't melt/overheat at the first sign of circuit work?

The wheels the tyres will be fitted to are 17x9's and I look to have the same width tyres fitted front and rear to be able to rotate them.

[Cazal 856]

Maybe something like a Falken RT615, or a Federal 595 RS-R. RS-R's are street legal and will probably wear pretty well while giving you a decent amount of grip.

Alternatively, you could try 595 SS's which are kinda slippery. 235/45 would work pretty well I think.

[ram]

Some great info for a circuit beginner!

Whilst this thread has been revived, I have a question regarding tyre choice.

I've read that as a circuit racing beginner, I should look past semi slicks and look toward decent street tyres?

Any recommendations as to a set of tyres that I should be shopping for that would offer a resonable levels of grip and won't melt/overheat at the first sign of circuit work?

The wheels the tyres will be fitted to are 17x9's and I look to have the same width tyres fitted front and rear to be able to rotate them.



Are you going to have a separate set of street tyres and track tyres?

[RE99IE]

Are you going to have a separate set of street tyres and track tyres?

Separating tyres are good if you are forking out a big sum of your earnings on good semi or slicks. You will need to store them properly as well. I would recommend as a beginner is to use good street tyres. Learn the basics first so when you are ready, you will naturally progress to better tyres to find the extra tenths of a second.

Two things I was told the other day which makes perfect sense as well:

1. if you think a part of your car is just enough to last you the trackday (ie brakes, tyres) -replace them as best bet they will break and you won't enjoy your track day.

2. $10 Helmet is a $10 Head.

[vex33d]

Are you going to have a separate set of street tyres and track tyres?

That is an option, as I currently have 3 full sets of rims. I purchased the 17x9's with the intention of circuit work. However I'm leaning towards running a higher end street tyre for my first couple of circuit outings.


Maybe something like a Falken RT615, or a Federal 595 RS-R. RS-R's are street legal and will probably wear pretty well while giving you a decent amount of grip.

Alternatively, you could try 595 SS's which are kinda slippery. 235/45 would work pretty well I think.

Cheers Chris, on my skid rims I'm currently running Fed 595 SS's. Think I'll stay with a street tyre in 235/45 sizing to begin with and get a feel for the car. Leaning towards Kumho KU31's or 36's.



Separating tyres are good if you are forking out a big sum of your earnings on good semi or slicks. You will need to store them properly as well. I would recommend as a beginner is to use good street tyres. Learn the basics first so when you are ready, you will naturally progress to better tyres to find the extra tenths of a second.

Two things I was told the other day which makes perfect sense as well:

1. if you think a part of your car is just enough to last you the trackday (ie brakes, tyres) -replace them as best bet they will break and you won't enjoy your track day.

2. $10 Helmet is a $10 Head.

Cheers Reggie, some good info. :)

[Cazal 856]

How do you know my name?!?

KU36's are also a good option man.

[vex33d]

How do you know my name?!?

KU36's are also a good option man.

SilNSW days, many a year ago. Obviously left a lasting impression... :)

[Cazal 856]

This is awkward....... Sorry man.

[rusty1]

I used REO1R's for numerous track days before I went to semi slicks. I rate them as very good for track experience

[eniryks]

this is my track day prep and thing not every one would do this but i do every time.

track prep.

new oil
new oil filter
clean air filter
check plugs
check box oil for sign of wear
new box oil
check lsd oil for signs of wear
new diff oil
check calipers for signs of fatuige
re grease slides
new brake fluid
check pads / replace if under 30%
check coolant/ replace if nessacery
check tyres
check rims
check hubs / bearing for fatuige and wear
check all bushes
check radiator and hosing
check intercooler and pipeing
wipe all ecu code if any
check steering arms
check seats
check belts
prepare track box

track box inclueds
tools
compression tester
spare plugs
spare nuts and bolts
spare fuel pump
spare fuel filter
misc fuel hose
misc air hose
misc cool piping
spare radiator hoses
zip ties
race tape
spare engine oil
misc clamps
spare diff oil
spare box oil
tob thumb pump bottle
spare nuts and bolts
spare fuses
spare globes
and a few other assorted goodies

Track day

After track day
wash car ( i havent some times but normaly i do)
pull all wheels off wash wheels check for cracks and fatuige
check all levels to see if anything has droped so i can order parts
check all suspension for signs of fatuige or parts to replace
check all bushes for fatuige or parts to replace check brakes for fatuige or parts to replace
check cooling (pressure test) for fatuige and parts to replace
check engine components/belts for odd noises and fatuige
check tyres
check brakes
check drive train

i think thats about it then i just have a general go around, but i clean everything after every time because while you are washing it you can check for damage which the dirt oil and grease cover.

takes me about 1.5 to 2 hours to do this every time so it is quite quick.

phill you are correct the best thing to have in your car is a fire extinguisher you are silly if you dont, it can put out most small fires rather quickly because by the time you asses the fire locate the nearest marshall station get to it get out get to the extinguisher get back to the car get the extinguisher ready iots all over car is gone.

at $25 each from repco i normally had 2 in my car all the time 1 on each foot well cheap investment to save allot of money or your life if your traped in the car you still have access to it and if your car is on fire i would rather have a small hope then none.

[70rolla]

^^^go on ebay just buy a moto helmet and pull the visor off if you want better vision you can get them pretty cheap off there now you can get one from $100 upwards as long as it meets australian standards you will be sweet or an open face moto sort of helmet...

ive done a couple of drift nights most of problems that ive seen are

-cars getting to hot taking away track time and isnt fun when you have to sit and wait for it to cool down, so check your fluids flush radiater if necessary.
- another problem is exhausts falling off so make sure there secure check exhaust rubbers and mounts

make a check list before you head out to the track

take a small tool box
take your spare
some water for the car as well as you
some oil
bit of coolant if you want
few cable ties
and definatley make sure that you have a bonnet restraint seen a few people a bit stuck cause they forgot haha

[clutch-monkey]

this is my track day prep and thing not every one would do this but i do every time.

track prep.

new oil
new oil filter
clean air filter
check plugs
check box oil for sign of wear
new box oil
check lsd oil for signs of wear
new diff oil
check calipers for signs of fatuige
re grease slides
new brake fluid
check pads / replace if under 30%
check coolant/ replace if nessacery
check tyres
check rims
check hubs / bearing for fatuige and wear
check all bushes
check radiator and hosing
check intercooler and pipeing
wipe all ecu code if any
check steering arms
check seats
check belts
prepare track box

track box inclueds
tools
compression tester
spare plugs
spare nuts and bolts
spare fuel pump
spare fuel filter
misc fuel hose
misc air hose
misc cool piping
spare radiator hoses
zip ties
race tape
spare engine oil
misc clamps
spare diff oil
spare box oil
tob thumb pump bottle
spare nuts and bolts
spare fuses
spare globes
and a few other assorted goodies

Track day

After track day
wash car ( i havent some times but normaly i do)
pull all wheels off wash wheels check for cracks and fatuige
check all levels to see if anything has droped so i can order parts
check all suspension for signs of fatuige or parts to replace
check all bushes for fatuige or parts to replace check brakes for fatuige or parts to replace
check cooling (pressure test) for fatuige and parts to replace
check engine components/belts for odd noises and fatuige
check tyres
check brakes
check drive train

i think thats about it then i just have a general go around, but i clean everything after every time because while you are washing it you can check for damage which the dirt oil and grease cover.

takes me about 1.5 to 2 hours to do this every time so it is quite quick.

phill you are correct the best thing to have in your car is a fire extinguisher you are silly if you dont, it can put out most small fires rather quickly because by the time you asses the fire locate the nearest marshall station get to it get out get to the extinguisher get back to the car get the extinguisher ready iots all over car is gone.

at $25 each from repco i normally had 2 in my car all the time 1 on each foot well cheap investment to save allot of money or your life if your traped in the car you still have access to it and if your car is on fire i would rather have a small hope then none.
holy shit
i just check fluid levels, give it a clean and go
maybe do an oil change when i get back

[eniryks]

yea look most people dont worry about it but for 2 hours i can see a issue before it becomes a major issue a small crack in the wheel through turn 1 of the creek could lead to a major accident.

i am just anal as 1 mistake can cost you your life.

[Kenjifujima]

I did melt the outsides of the tyres on said day. Still tonnes of tread.

[THEEYA]

Awesome thread, great tip about not using the handbrake

[daevilone]

I think there is a lot of stuff here for the first time track goer that really isn't needed.

1). Whatever tyres you've got on your car will do. Unless they are tyres you don't want to wear out in which case get something cheaper to use (hunt for second hand tyres). Don't go and buy a brand new set of semi's for your first day out. It's much more useful to learn how to track your car with bugger all grip. That way you can feel how the car is going to react in various situations without going that fast. Then once you can get as much out of crap tyres as you can, you will see much better lap times when you switch to semi's vs starting on semi's.

2) gauges - unless your car is known to overheat or something then this is just a waste of money. If you are going to start tracking regularly then sure, first time, probably don't bother.

3) pads/rotors. As long as they have enough meat on them and are in good condition then they will be fine. Yes, track pads will be better, stop harder and let you do more hard laps in a row before they get too hot. Again, this is your first time, you probably aren't going to be pushing your brakes to the limit in your first sessions.

My recommendations are to just make sure the car is running well with reasonably fresh fluids that are all nicely topped up.

But before you start dropping large chunks of money into this, have a go and wait to get hooked first =) THEN go and dump money into it =).

[matespace]

I think there is a lot of stuff here for the first time track goer that really isn't needed.

1). Whatever tyres you've got on your car will do. Unless they are tyres you don't want to wear out in which case get something cheaper to use (hunt for second hand tyres). Don't go and buy a brand new set of semi's for your first day out. It's much more useful to learn how to track your car with bugger all grip. That way you can feel how the car is going to react in various situations without going that fast. Then once you can get as much out of crap tyres as you can, you will see much better lap times when you switch to semi's vs starting on semi's.

2) gauges - unless your car is known to overheat or something then this is just a waste of money. If you are going to start tracking regularly then sure, first time, probably don't bother.

3) pads/rotors. As long as they have enough meat on them and are in good condition then they will be fine. Yes, track pads will be better, stop harder and let you do more hard laps in a row before they get too hot. Again, this is your first time, you probably aren't going to be pushing your brakes to the limit in your first sessions.

My recommendations are to just make sure the car is running well with reasonably fresh fluids that are all nicely topped up.

But before you start dropping large chunks of money into this, have a go and wait to get hooked first =) THEN go and dump money into it =).

hit the nail on the head .... +1

totally agree ..

[U MIRIN S15]

give it agood service !

[sweefu]

hit the nail on the head .... +1

totally agree ..

+1! Great advice. I organised a skidpan day last month, and had people buying different tyres.. for a wet skidpan!

[tomr328]

number one tip - Don't be afraid to come into the pits and check your car if your worried about something.

and another one - "slow is smooth, smooth is fast" mark wahlburg, shooter haha