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Thread: Car care tips

  1. #101
    Member DaveXR8's Avatar
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    Paint Contaminants

    The main causes of paint contaminants comes from industrial fallout, iron filings or small metal particles, brake dust, sand, salt and so on.
    When these contaminants bond to your vehicles paint it can cause the paint to feel rough and overtime. If not attended to immediately with a paint decontamination process it can start to oxidize and overtime will form rust in the paint.



    A good way to test if your paint is contaminated is to place your hand in a plastic shopping or sandwich bag and gently run your fingers over the painted surfaces.
    If you can feel that it is rough and gritty then it is an obvious sign that there are paint contaminants present on your vehicle.

    Removing paint contaminants
    It is not recommended that you apply a wax or sealant over a contaminated painted surface as all you are doing is locking these contaminants in and allowing it to penetrate further into the paint as time goes by.

    Inexperienced detailers will say that compounding the paint will remove the contaminants. This is true but its not the right way to go about it because what it is doing is removing paint to get rid of the contaminants.
    Remember, a vehicle only has a limited amount of paint or clear coat and once you have cut through it the only way to fix it is to get it resprayed.
    Heavy compounding will also induce swirls so you will need to follow it up with a finer polish to remove these and refine the paint.

    The best and safest way to remove paint contaminants is with a ?Detailing Clay Bar? or also known as an overspray bar.
    There are many different brands and grades of clay bars available but all serve the same purpose.
    Clay bars ?pull out? the contaminants from the paint so its not actually using any form of abrasive to cut back on it.
    This will extend the life of your paint as you are not removing any layers and thinning it out.

    How to clay

    Cheers
    Dave
  2. #102
    Member DaveXR8's Avatar
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    Silicone Based Products in Detailing

    Silicone based products are usually used in 2 main areas of detailing, rubbers/tyres and vinyls/trims.

    Elements such as UV rays and environmental contaminants can cause rubbers and vinyls to dry, crack and lose its elasticity by breaking down the bonds in the material which hold it all together.

    Products such as Armoural were the go to product back in the day but being a silicone based product it does not actually do much for the rubber/vinyl it is applied to besides provide a high gloss oily sheen.

    Most silicone products do not contain any UV protectants so it will not prevent the rubbers/vinyls from drying out and discolouring. What it is actually doing is magnifying the UV though its glossy finish thus aiding in the deterioration of the material.

    Silicon is also a magnet for dust, pet hair and air borne contaminants. So next time you see a car with shiny dash and trims with plently of dust on it you can guarantee that it has had a silicone based product applied to it.

    My personal opinion on silicon products is that it should only be used on tyres as that is the only part of your car you would want looking as black and shiny as possible (besides black paint).
    In saying that it is up to the personal preference of the vehicle owner. Some like the shiny look and some prefer the factory new look.

    For the matte new look on dash, trims and tyres, you should look for treatment products which are either water or polymer based. Both of these will condition the material whist providing UV protection. Water and polymer based products also provide an anti-static feature which repels dust to a certain degree unlike silicone.

    Silicone based tyre shine
    - Clean Plus Tyre Shine

    Water based interior & exterior treatments
    - Clean Plus Exterior Plastic Renovator
    - Clean Plus Dashboard Renovator

    Polymer Based interior & exterior treatments
    - Prima Nero
    - Driven Vinyl/rubber/leather

    Cheers
    Dave
  3. #103
    Member mitch_f1's Avatar
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    Hey dave, just a quicky here. I went to WP the other day in the wet and mud, and went off a few times with my meshies on. I went to clean the car todya, and was careful to srpay off all the dirt from the lip before touching it with a sponge, but I sitll have heaps of little scratches on the lip. How would you go about fixing this. I went and got a tube of autosol, but should I be using the aluminium specific one?
  4. #104
    Member KC.'s Avatar
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    Hey Dave.. quick question..

    whats the best RO for a newbie.. I"m looking at the bosch RO's from bunnings at around the 150 mark... although if there's better out there or maybe slightly worse but much cheaper i'd consider it...

    any recommendations??
  5. #105
    Member DaveXR8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitch_f1 View Post
    Hey dave, just a quicky here. I went to WP the other day in the wet and mud, and went off a few times with my meshies on. I went to clean the car todya, and was careful to srpay off all the dirt from the lip before touching it with a sponge, but I sitll have heaps of little scratches on the lip. How would you go about fixing this. I went and got a tube of autosol, but should I be using the aluminium specific one?
    Yeah get one that is made for aluminium because as you know aluminium is a soft metal and you dont want to use anything that has harsh abrasives in it.
    Make sure you use a clean 100% cotton rag as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by KC. View Post
    Hey Dave.. quick question..

    whats the best RO for a newbie.. I"m looking at the bosch RO's from bunnings at around the 150 mark... although if there's better out there or maybe slightly worse but much cheaper i'd consider it...

    any recommendations??
    The Bosch is not a bad novice RO but you will find that you will grow out of it quickly. If you are planning to use it every now and then and you want something with a bit more bite then I would go for the Megs G220 or the DAS-6.

    These are more expensive ($230-$299) but will give you more correction and do a better job than the Bosch as thee have a wider orbit and larger speed range.
  6. #106
    Member mitch_f1's Avatar
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    So i went and got an aluminium specific polish, I got the Mothers one. But it isn't bringing up the black residue as it is supposed to. So what do I do now? Does this mean that it has a clear coat? Is it possible to get scratches/pocks out of clear coat??
  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitch_f1 View Post
    So i went and got an aluminium specific polish, I got the Mothers one. But it isn't bringing up the black residue as it is supposed to. So what do I do now? Does this mean that it has a clear coat? Is it possible to get scratches/pocks out of clear coat??
    Anything you can feel with your fingernail on the rim is going to be very hard to get out by hand polishing.

    You may just have to get them refinished.
  8. #108
    New Member tomtom92's Avatar
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    very helpful thread, thanks heaps. i just had my rear bar re painted as it had severe sun damage. i knew when i got it back the colour would be a bit darker due to newer paint and it was. its a long shot but is there anything i can do? its definitely the right paint code, so mayb i should leave it out in the sun for a few months lol.

    cheers
  9. #109
    Member DaveXR8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitch_f1 View Post
    So i went and got an aluminium specific polish, I got the Mothers one. But it isn't bringing up the black residue as it is supposed to. So what do I do now? Does this mean that it has a clear coat? Is it possible to get scratches/pocks out of clear coat??
    Are the aluminium parts you are trying to polish on your wheels or in the engine bay?

    As Kavehman mentioned. If you can feel the scratch then polishing wont do much for it.

    Quote Originally Posted by tomtom92 View Post
    very helpful thread, thanks heaps. i just had my rear bar re painted as it had severe sun damage. i knew when i got it back the colour would be a bit darker due to newer paint and it was. its a long shot but is there anything i can do? its definitely the right paint code, so mayb i should leave it out in the sun for a few months lol.

    cheers
    Cheers tomtom92.

    What you will find that even though it is the correct paint code, how perfect the colour matches depends on how old the paint is on the rest of the panel.
    Also, the front/rear bars are usually plastic where as the guards/doors/bonnet are metal. In most cases different panel materials will change the tone of the colour slightly.

    In this case there is not much you can do polishing wise to match the colour more.
  10. #110
    Member mitch_f1's Avatar
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    THey are on my wheels, and I realise that with the deeper ones, but there are surface scratches which are very very shallow, looking like this: http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u..._f1/3Large.jpg

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