Reply With Quoteinteresting I had the same thought about the squeegee but then thought if dirt get caught on the blade, dirt particles getting caught in the chamois would have the same effect right?
Stay away from the squeegee.....its bad news for paint surfaces.
I have never used one but from all the cars that ive seen which have had these used on them they have had severe paint defects induced into the paint.
Check out this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=AU&h...&v=PZjWkB_q2lE
A good quality waffle weave towel is the best and safest option.
Cheers
Dave
interesting I had the same thought about the squeegee but then thought if dirt get caught on the blade, dirt particles getting caught in the chamois would have the same effect right?
i guess the best option is to use the weaved microfibre cloth... it takes a lot of time.. but doesnt scratch at all...
Dave, I parked my car next to a wall the other day and some kids did graffiti on the wall; That caused some overspray on the rear side... it looks more like flakes of the spray paint... they dont go away with a wash... and you cant feel them with your hand... Would you have any idea on how to remove them??
yeah it would be the same kind thing.Originally Posted by DR-JEKL
Thats why MF towels are the best way to go cause if there is any dirt that gets caught on the towel it will get pulled up into the fibres so it wont cause any damage to the paint. ANd then when you wash the towel the fibres open up and release any dirt and grit which has been drawn up in to it.
Try claying it. If that doesnt work then you can try use a wax and grease remover such as Prepsolve which you can buy from Bunnings. It costs about $10.
Just make sure you dont get the Prepsolve on any plastic or rubber trims.
Cheers
Dave
Thanks mate... I will try that... hope it comes off...
All good mate
Dave I have a hitachi variable speed rotary linisher would this be ok to use to polish my car with?
If so would these pads be ok to use?
http://www.chemicalguys.com/product_p/buflc_103_3.htm
I have seen the mothers polishers at a number of car shows and they look the biz as they are very compact and light in weight and from what I was told less chance of burning the paint compared to a rotary buffer, but at a few hundred bucks I figured instead of outlaying $ for the mothers buffer I could just get some pads for my hitachi and use that?
Do you have a paint depth thickness gauge that you use prior to cutting?
Also I always use autoglym glass polish on my car after the usual 3 monthly clay/clean/feed with zymol products but have noticed that my rear window has etched watermarks that the autoglym polish will not remove.
Most people wouldnt notice but I'm pretty damn fussy... I have some diamond paste cutting polish that we use in the lab to prepare high hardness metallographic steel samples with (polish steel samples to a mirror finish with this paste) would this be ok to use on glass? or do you have another recommended glass polish?
Just wondering Dave, If I were to get in touch with you when funds permit, perhaps you could organise a "kit" of your products for me to purchase that covers everything I will need? Can PM you with more details if you wish to not clog up your thread and can discuss overall price. Will be starting fresh with new car and town I live in currently only has Big W and Super Cheap both of which, have limited to no range of car care products.
Thanks
Last edited by dann; 10-04-09 at 12:34 AM.
If the Hitachi is a varible speed from 600-2000rpm then it should be fine.Dave I have a hitachi variable speed rotary linisher would this be ok to use to polish my car with?
If so would these pads be ok to use?
http://www.chemicalguys.com/product_p/buflc_103_3.htm
I have seen the mothers polishers at a number of car shows and they look the biz as they are very compact and light in weight and from what I was told less chance of burning the paint compared to a rotary buffer, but at a few hundred bucks I figured instead of outlaying $ for the mothers buffer I could just get some pads for my hitachi and use that?
Do you have a paint depth thickness gauge that you use prior to cutting?
Also I always use autoglym glass polish on my car after the usual 3 monthly clay/clean/feed with zymol products but have noticed that my rear window has etched watermarks that the autoglym polish will not remove.
Most people wouldnt notice but I'm pretty damn fussy... I have some diamond paste cutting polish that we use in the lab to prepare high hardness metallographic steel samples with (polish steel samples to a mirror finish with this paste) would this be ok to use on glass? or do you have another recommended glass polish?
Also the pads that your talking about from Chemical Guys are the Lake country pads which I use myself very regularly. Depending on the size of the backing plate on your polisher you might need the 6.5" or 7.5" pads. You can get them from me aswell.
http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/prod...t=pads&prodID=
I havent seen the Mothers polisher which you are talking about but to me it sounds like its a Random Orbital.
If you have never used a rotary before then Id recommend starting off with and RO mainly because its alot easier to use and handle. It doesnt generate heat as much as a rotary and it is pretty much impossible to burn paint with an RO.
But if you do want to give the rotary a go then I highly recommend you practice on some old test panels first just to get the hang of it. Ill do up a lil article on how to polish after this.
I always use a paint thickness gauge before any correction job as it gives me an indication of how much paint the car has overall. My one is just a basic gauge which tells you how much paint there is altogether ie. base, colour & clear.
Te standard amount of paint on a new car usually ranges from 120-150um (microns) When a car gets down to about 80-90um that is when I usually avoid any abrasive polishing as that is getting to the point where the clear is at its limit.
Are you using the glass polish by hand or machine? If you cant get it out by hand then have a at it with your polisher and a white or orange LC ccs pad. I did this Anthonhy's (Dahtone Racing) WRX with my Driven Extreme Glass Cleaner then sealed it with Driven auto polish to minimise the chance of water spots etching in again.
http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/prod...ners&prodId=c1
http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/prod...ants&prodId=s2
Im not really sure about the diamond cut polish that you use as I have never come across it but if it works on hard metals then it should work on glass. Test it in a small corner of the glass to see if it works.
Cheers
Dave
I would be more than happy to customise a car care kit up for you.
PM me with what you have in mind and we can mix and match to suit your needs.
Cheers
Dave
Machine Polishing
There are 2 types of units which can be used to polish and correct a cars paint.
First is the Random Oribital (dual action) polisher.
The random orbit is highly recommended if you have never used a machine polisher before as it does not have the speed and cutting power as what a rotary does which minimises the chance of damaging or burining the paint.
A RO rotates but also orbits side to side giving the same type of action as when polishing by hand in a circular motion. This allows the pad to move over a slightly larger area so it doesnt generate too much heat in one spot too quickly.
RO are mainly used to apply LSP (last step products. ie. wax/sealants) but can also be used for correcting light paint imperfections and to enhance the paint.
I use the Festool ETS/150 which has speed settings from 1-5.
http://www.festool.com.au/mediandowe...69&AKTIVPROD=1
When polishing paint with the RO I apply 3 drops of polish (roughly the size of 5c pieces) onto the pad then smear it onto the paint surface. Work on an area about 50x50cms at a time. Once the product is smeared, place the pad flat onto the surface and start it on its lowest speed and work in an up/down or side to side motion covering the area that you are working on. Gradually dump the speed up but dont speed it up too much to the point where it feels like its hard to controll.
After a few passes or when the product looks like its breaking down, gradually slow down the speed until product has been worked enough.
If the product starts dusting up then that is when it has been fully worked and can go no further.
When applying LSP's with the RO you pretty much use the same process as when polishing but you will not need to increase the speed as much because all you are wanting to do is to spread the LSP evenly over the surface you are applying it onto.
Rotary
If you are looking to polish with a rotary but have never used one in the past then it is highly recommended you start off with a RO. If you want to give the rotary a go then it is recommended that you practise on some test panels first.
Rotary's are used to correct heavier paint imperfections where a RO just wont cut it.
Rotary's work at a much faster speed and cut alot more quicker which is why it is only recommended for people that have had experience with one as it generates heat pretty quicky and can burn though paint edges if not constanly kept in motion.
I use the Makita 9227CB which has a speed range of 600-3000rpm but I only ever go as high as 1800rpm.
The polishing method is similar to the RO but you really need to watch the speed because if it is rotating too fast then it can easily bite onto the paint and can cause the rotary to throw itself wherever it wants to go
This is something that japanese made cars are known for as they have very soft and sticky paints.
OK the process.
Apply 3 drops on product onto the pad and smear it onto the surface. Work a 50x50cm area at a time.
Place the pad flat on the surface and start it on its lowerst speed. 600rpm.
Move the rotary in a up/down, side to side motion gradually bumping the speed up to 900, 1200 then 1500rpm.
If it gets to the point where is feels like its biting, slow the speed down to where it is controlable. Make sure the pad is flat on the surface as this can cause it to bite even more and generate heat.
If it is still biting then you can give the surface a light spray with a QD to help lubricate and let the pad glide over the surface better.
Work the product for a few passes then gradually slow it down to 1200, 900 then 600rpm.
The higher speeds are for correcting and the lower speeds help refine the paint and reduce the amount of buffer trails or hazing left behind from the heavy polishing.
After polishing each section. Spray a quick detailer or IPA solution and buff off residue with a MF towel and check the results.
When selecting what pad and polish combo will work to remove the paint defects, always start at the lowest grade. Do a test section on a panel and see if it delivers the results you are after. If not, step up with the grade of pad first as it does not have a big of a gap in abrasive grades as what products have.
Happy detailing
Cheers
Dave
Felt the results of your work yesterday on a mate's car, i must say im very impressed.
The fact that you managed to shift that tree sap is great!
Thanks mate.
Had to try a few different things to get the sap to even budge but it all turned out well.
Do you know if he managed to get his car started??
Also, heard the bad news about your car mate. Hope your alright.
Cheers
Dave
Quick Detailers
Quick detailers have mainly been used by professional detailers as a final inspection of their work or a finishing touch to a detail.
Quick detailers can be used for a number of things such as:
-Clay Lubricant
-temporary protection and shine(2-3 weeks)
-to clean/wash your car
Some can also be used for interior cleaning aswell.
Quick detailers contain biodegradable cleaners and citrus and also has a range of essential polymers and oils. These help the concentrate clean and protect your vehicle without stripping off any wax which has been applied.
How to clean your car with Quick Detailers
If you are one of the many enthusiasts which would like to clean your car every week or two but never have the time to then this is for you.
Quick detailers can help clean fresh contaminants such as droppings, treesap, water spots which have not had enough time to bake itself onto the paint.
You will need:
-a bucket of diluted car wash solution(for heavily soiled areas)
-Duster
-Quick Detailer
-a few microfibre towels
First, dust your car down with a scratch safe duster making sure you shake the duster after each panel to release any dirt which have been picked up by the fibres.
Once dusting is done, spray a generous amount of QD spray onto the panel or work area and wipe off with microfibre towel in one direction. When the towel looks soiled, flip it over and repeat throughout the rest of the car.
Once the whole car is done, go over the car again but this time spray it on and buff it off. This will create a little more shine and added protection.
When you have all this down pat, it should only take you about 10-15 minutes to do the exterior of your car.
Driven Quick spray is what I use myself as this is a concentrate and can be diluted to specific ratios for extra shine, lubricity and cleaning/polishing power. If you apply Driven quick spray after each intial wash, it will add more depth and clarity to your vehicles paint, Even more so if it is buffed on by machine.
*Note- washing with QD is only for vehicles which is kept in good condition and only have fresh contaminants on it. For heavily soiled areas, it is recommended to wash with a car wash solution first*
Happy Motoring
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