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Thread: Car care tips

  1. #31
    Member DaveXR8's Avatar
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    Stay away from the squeegee.....its bad news for paint surfaces.
    I have never used one but from all the cars that ive seen which have had these used on them they have had severe paint defects induced into the paint.

    Check out this video
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=AU&h...&v=PZjWkB_q2lE

    A good quality waffle weave towel is the best and safest option.

    Cheers
    Dave
  2. #32
    Member DR-JEKL's Avatar
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    interesting I had the same thought about the squeegee but then thought if dirt get caught on the blade, dirt particles getting caught in the chamois would have the same effect right?
  3. #33
    New Member jinxor's Avatar
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    i guess the best option is to use the weaved microfibre cloth... it takes a lot of time.. but doesnt scratch at all...


    Dave, I parked my car next to a wall the other day and some kids did graffiti on the wall; That caused some overspray on the rear side... it looks more like flakes of the spray paint... they dont go away with a wash... and you cant feel them with your hand... Would you have any idea on how to remove them??
  4. #34
    Member DaveXR8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
    interesting I had the same thought about the squeegee but then thought if dirt get caught on the blade, dirt particles getting caught in the chamois would have the same effect right?
    yeah it would be the same kind thing.
    Thats why MF towels are the best way to go cause if there is any dirt that gets caught on the towel it will get pulled up into the fibres so it wont cause any damage to the paint. ANd then when you wash the towel the fibres open up and release any dirt and grit which has been drawn up in to it.
  5. #35
    Member DaveXR8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jinxor View Post
    i guess the best option is to use the weaved microfibre cloth... it takes a lot of time.. but doesnt scratch at all...


    Dave, I parked my car next to a wall the other day and some kids did graffiti on the wall; That caused some overspray on the rear side... it looks more like flakes of the spray paint... they dont go away with a wash... and you cant feel them with your hand... Would you have any idea on how to remove them??
    Try claying it. If that doesnt work then you can try use a wax and grease remover such as Prepsolve which you can buy from Bunnings. It costs about $10.
    Just make sure you dont get the Prepsolve on any plastic or rubber trims.

    Cheers
    Dave
  6. #36
    New Member jinxor's Avatar
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    Thanks mate... I will try that... hope it comes off...
  7. #37
    Member DaveXR8's Avatar
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    All good mate
  8. #38
    Member DR-JEKL's Avatar
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    Dave I have a hitachi variable speed rotary linisher would this be ok to use to polish my car with?



    If so would these pads be ok to use?

    http://www.chemicalguys.com/product_p/buflc_103_3.htm

    I have seen the mothers polishers at a number of car shows and they look the biz as they are very compact and light in weight and from what I was told less chance of burning the paint compared to a rotary buffer, but at a few hundred bucks I figured instead of outlaying $ for the mothers buffer I could just get some pads for my hitachi and use that?

    Do you have a paint depth thickness gauge that you use prior to cutting?

    Also I always use autoglym glass polish on my car after the usual 3 monthly clay/clean/feed with zymol products but have noticed that my rear window has etched watermarks that the autoglym polish will not remove.



    Most people wouldnt notice but I'm pretty damn fussy... I have some diamond paste cutting polish that we use in the lab to prepare high hardness metallographic steel samples with (polish steel samples to a mirror finish with this paste) would this be ok to use on glass? or do you have another recommended glass polish?
  9. #39
    New Member dann's Avatar
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    Just wondering Dave, If I were to get in touch with you when funds permit, perhaps you could organise a "kit" of your products for me to purchase that covers everything I will need? Can PM you with more details if you wish to not clog up your thread and can discuss overall price. Will be starting fresh with new car and town I live in currently only has Big W and Super Cheap both of which, have limited to no range of car care products.
    Thanks
    Last edited by dann; 10-04-09 at 12:34 AM.
  10. #40
    Member DaveXR8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
    Dave I have a hitachi variable speed rotary linisher would this be ok to use to polish my car with?



    If so would these pads be ok to use?

    http://www.chemicalguys.com/product_p/buflc_103_3.htm

    I have seen the mothers polishers at a number of car shows and they look the biz as they are very compact and light in weight and from what I was told less chance of burning the paint compared to a rotary buffer, but at a few hundred bucks I figured instead of outlaying $ for the mothers buffer I could just get some pads for my hitachi and use that?

    Do you have a paint depth thickness gauge that you use prior to cutting?

    Also I always use autoglym glass polish on my car after the usual 3 monthly clay/clean/feed with zymol products but have noticed that my rear window has etched watermarks that the autoglym polish will not remove.



    Most people wouldnt notice but I'm pretty damn fussy... I have some diamond paste cutting polish that we use in the lab to prepare high hardness metallographic steel samples with (polish steel samples to a mirror finish with this paste) would this be ok to use on glass? or do you have another recommended glass polish?
    If the Hitachi is a varible speed from 600-2000rpm then it should be fine.
    Also the pads that your talking about from Chemical Guys are the Lake country pads which I use myself very regularly. Depending on the size of the backing plate on your polisher you might need the 6.5" or 7.5" pads. You can get them from me aswell.
    http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/prod...t=pads&prodID=

    I havent seen the Mothers polisher which you are talking about but to me it sounds like its a Random Orbital.
    If you have never used a rotary before then Id recommend starting off with and RO mainly because its alot easier to use and handle. It doesnt generate heat as much as a rotary and it is pretty much impossible to burn paint with an RO.
    But if you do want to give the rotary a go then I highly recommend you practice on some old test panels first just to get the hang of it. Ill do up a lil article on how to polish after this.

    I always use a paint thickness gauge before any correction job as it gives me an indication of how much paint the car has overall. My one is just a basic gauge which tells you how much paint there is altogether ie. base, colour & clear.
    Te standard amount of paint on a new car usually ranges from 120-150um (microns) When a car gets down to about 80-90um that is when I usually avoid any abrasive polishing as that is getting to the point where the clear is at its limit.

    Are you using the glass polish by hand or machine? If you cant get it out by hand then have a at it with your polisher and a white or orange LC ccs pad. I did this Anthonhy's (Dahtone Racing) WRX with my Driven Extreme Glass Cleaner then sealed it with Driven auto polish to minimise the chance of water spots etching in again.
    http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/prod...ners&prodId=c1
    http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/prod...ants&prodId=s2

    Im not really sure about the diamond cut polish that you use as I have never come across it but if it works on hard metals then it should work on glass. Test it in a small corner of the glass to see if it works.

    Cheers
    Dave

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