Reply With Quotei have the autoglym leather cleaner , probably gonna go get some leather conditioner
I found the mothers leather/vinyl cleaner worked great!
i have the autoglym leather cleaner , probably gonna go get some leather conditioner
Im going to be getting in a new range of products hopefully by then end of the month.
These are direct from the UK and is in a similar range and budget as Autoglym.
These will consist of your regular sprays and liquids but also convenience wipe packs as well.
Keep an eye out for it
I used the all purpose cleaner last night, it got rid of SO much of the muck!! and I havent even put the conditioner on it yet.will take photo's when its all cleaned up! thanks for the advice.
Looking forward to theseOriginally Posted by DaveXR8
Im going to be getting in a new range of products hopefully by then end of the month.
These are direct from the UK and is in a similar range and budget as Autoglym.
These will consist of your regular sprays and liquids but also convenience wipe packs as well.
Keep an eye out for it
Hey Dave,
What do you recommend for cleaning a "stained" white engine bay?
I've found a few APC's I've used don't really do the trick.
I've tried using paint cleaners and these work, but are hard to apply as most are by applicator pad, and there are very few areas in an engine bay that you can access with a pad.
Degreasers don't do the job.
A guy on autopia showed some awesome results with WD40 believe it or not, but i gave it a shot and didn't do much. It is great for cleaning things like rubber hoses though.
What about steam cleaming?
Pic
Last edited by SKY350; 05-03-10 at 03:08 PM.
The two most effective cleaners I've found for the engine bay are
Selley's Degreaser
and
Poorboy's All Purpose Cleaner
It does require a lot of elbow grease - use of brushes and rags - to shift some stains. Some stains in paintwork just won't come out without cutting/polishing either.
Steam cleaning does a good job of cleaning up enigne bays as well, but same story as above - some stains are just not going to come out.
Cool, might just have to stop looking for that miracle solution and just get stuck into it.
Don't mind the hard work, just didn't want to have to start removing parts to get access which is what I'm probably going to need to do.
Just as dopey mentioned. You will need to put a bit of elbow grease into it as the stain has bonded itself onto the surface.
Just keep going at it with degreaser and a brush and it should clear it up.
Good to hear it worked.I used the all purpose cleaner last night, it got rid of SO much of the muck!! and I havent even put the conditioner on it yet.
Its always important to clean the leather first before you condition it to remove any dirt and body oils so the leather conditioner can properly penetrate the material to give it a nice supple feel.
Paint Contaminants
The main causes of paint contaminants comes from industrial fallout, iron filings or small metal particles, brake dust, sand, salt and so on.
When these contaminants bond to your vehicles paint it can cause the paint to feel rough and overtime. If not attended to immediately with a paint decontamination process it can start to oxidize and overtime will form rust in the paint.
A good way to test if your paint is contaminated is to place your hand in a plastic shopping or sandwich bag and gently run your fingers over the painted surfaces.
If you can feel that it is rough and gritty then it is an obvious sign that there are paint contaminants present on your vehicle.
Removing paint contaminants
It is not recommended that you apply a wax or sealant over a contaminated painted surface as all you are doing is locking these contaminants in and allowing it to penetrate further into the paint as time goes by.
Inexperienced detailers will say that compounding the paint will remove the contaminants. This is true but its not the right way to go about it because what it is doing is removing paint to get rid of the contaminants.
Remember, a vehicle only has a limited amount of paint or clear coat and once you have cut through it the only way to fix it is to get it resprayed.
Heavy compounding will also induce swirls so you will need to follow it up with a finer polish to remove these and refine the paint.
The best and safest way to remove paint contaminants is with a ?Detailing Clay Bar? or also known as an overspray bar.
There are many different brands and grades of clay bars available but all serve the same purpose.
Clay bars ?pull out? the contaminants from the paint so its not actually using any form of abrasive to cut back on it.
This will extend the life of your paint as you are not removing any layers and thinning it out.
How to clay
Cheers
Dave
Silicone Based Products in Detailing
Silicone based products are usually used in 2 main areas of detailing, rubbers/tyres and vinyls/trims.
Elements such as UV rays and environmental contaminants can cause rubbers and vinyls to dry, crack and lose its elasticity by breaking down the bonds in the material which hold it all together.
Products such as Armoural were the go to product back in the day but being a silicone based product it does not actually do much for the rubber/vinyl it is applied to besides provide a high gloss oily sheen.
Most silicone products do not contain any UV protectants so it will not prevent the rubbers/vinyls from drying out and discolouring. What it is actually doing is magnifying the UV though its glossy finish thus aiding in the deterioration of the material.
Silicon is also a magnet for dust, pet hair and air borne contaminants. So next time you see a car with shiny dash and trims with plently of dust on it you can guarantee that it has had a silicone based product applied to it.
My personal opinion on silicon products is that it should only be used on tyres as that is the only part of your car you would want looking as black and shiny as possible (besides black paint).
In saying that it is up to the personal preference of the vehicle owner. Some like the shiny look and some prefer the factory new look.
For the matte new look on dash, trims and tyres, you should look for treatment products which are either water or polymer based. Both of these will condition the material whist providing UV protection. Water and polymer based products also provide an anti-static feature which repels dust to a certain degree unlike silicone.
Silicone based tyre shine
- Clean Plus Tyre Shine
Water based interior & exterior treatments
- Clean Plus Exterior Plastic Renovator
- Clean Plus Dashboard Renovator
Polymer Based interior & exterior treatments
- Prima Nero
- Driven Vinyl/rubber/leather
Cheers
Dave
Hey dave, just a quicky here. I went to WP the other day in the wet and mud, and went off a few times with my meshies on. I went to clean the car todya, and was careful to srpay off all the dirt from the lip before touching it with a sponge, but I sitll have heaps of little scratches on the lip. How would you go about fixing this. I went and got a tube of autosol, but should I be using the aluminium specific one?
Hey Dave.. quick question..
whats the best RO for a newbie.. I"m looking at the bosch RO's from bunnings at around the 150 mark... although if there's better out there or maybe slightly worse but much cheaper i'd consider it...
any recommendations??
Yeah get one that is made for aluminium because as you know aluminium is a soft metal and you dont want to use anything that has harsh abrasives in it.
Make sure you use a clean 100% cotton rag as well.
The Bosch is not a bad novice RO but you will find that you will grow out of it quickly. If you are planning to use it every now and then and you want something with a bit more bite then I would go for the Megs G220 or the DAS-6.
These are more expensive ($230-$299) but will give you more correction and do a better job than the Bosch as thee have a wider orbit and larger speed range.
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