Here's an update. The motivation for the following work came from planning to go to an Initial Drift Day at Wakefield Park on Easter Monday. As the car is still my daily I took the week before Easter off to get some essential stuff done to the car.
I'll start with the steering. Some of you may or may not remember me mentioning a few issues, mainly with the play in the rack and it feeling heavy (only sometimes?).
I decided I wanted to replace the rack, pump and all of the lines. I chose to source all of the replacement parts second hand so there's still some risk of having problems.
Being a non-HICAS car, it does not share the same steering components as the GTS-t (and the rest of the HICAS models) so sourcing a rack the same as mine was impossible. The old rack is a non-speed-sensitive steering rack and therefore all of the hard and soft lines are different too.
So I got an R32 GTS-t rack and lines from a local car that was being wrecked, and sourced an R34 pump online. Another component I had to buy separately was a voltage converter so I could send power to the steering rack. I wasn't very familiar with this before I started the rack swap but the GTS-t run a diaphragm that opens and closes depending on what speed you're driving at. And because I don't have this plug on my loom I had to wire up voltage manually to the rack however I did not want the full 12v as it would be very light all of the time. The voltage converter that I got from Jaycar allowed me to tweak it until I found a voltage that I was comfortable with and I feel that 4-5v is plenty.
Once I had removed my old rack I was able to see the whole shaft would move up and down inside the rack housing. It's hard to explain but it didn't look normal. The swap was fairly straight forward however I took my time doing it because I am lazy. I swapped my old tie rods and tie rod ends onto the GTS-t rack. The condition of the rack is still pretty questionable as it appeared to have a possible leak but I had no choice but to put it in so we'll see in the future. After testing it doesn't have any play though so I'm happy with that at least.
Something else that had been bothering me for a couple of months was the front right wheel bearing. It was gradually getting louder over time so I thought this would be a good opportunity to get brand new bearings for each side. I have never come across a bad wheel bearing before but everyone tells me you will be able to wobble the wheel and feel the play. I couldn't feel any play or movement at all but you'll see from the pics there was some visible wear. I sourced these brand new from Kudos Motorsport and was lucky enough to have one of my relatives press the old ones out at his work and put the new ones in for me.
Love using the DSLR camera. Apologies for any phone pics in this post, I really should make the effort to have the DSLR on me more often.
The below pic shows some of the depth in the wear marks of the outer race of the bearing.
These marks were evident the whole way around, on both the left and right bearings.
In late 2011 about a week after the Wakefield Park Drift Matsuri I had to change my clutch slave and master cylinder. I replaced with a Nissan master cyl and a cheap slave from a local brake and clutch place. Maybe 6 months ago I had that slave cylinder fail on me (life span maybe 3 years so that's not too bad I guess) so I replaced it and about 2 months ago with another cheap one. And then the clutch was starting to get soft AGAIN just before I replaced the steering rack so I took the opportunity seeing as it was off the road for about a week to order a brand new Nissan clutch slave, Master Cyl and HEL braided clutch line. I don't think there was anything wrong with the master cyl but for peace of mind I replaced it anyway. I have kept my old one as a spare. Clutch feels great again after replacing those components.
So with those things tackled I felt pretty good about drifting it again. I still had some other stuff planned before we headed to Wakefield Park. Been wanting to get my car dyno'd again just out of curiosity as we had it dyno'd in 2007 and it made 115kw. Both Brent and I took our cars to see Jez' workshop on the same day to analyse a few things. I won't go into detail with Brent's car (R31 with RB20) as this post would end up twice as long if I talked about it. First thing Jez did was a simple smoke test through the intake and we found a couple of minor leaks so that was handy to see. Then on the first run Jez said it was running really really lean so he checked the fuel pressure and there was barely any. We narrowed it down to the fuel pump so I decided to purchase and install one while we were there. That only took about 15mins to change, Brent and Jez knew what they were doing however I am not as familiar with the fuel pump setup etc. We went with a Walbro 255 and after the install the fuel pressure was back where it should be. The end figure was 112kw which I was happy to see. The car is 8 years older now but does have extractors so to see a figure very similar to what we started with was satisfying. Of course there are always variables with dyno's etc. too.
Here is the dyno sheet from 2007. It had torque instead of AFRs so Jez printed me one to compare against this one too.
It was a big rush getting everything ready for Brent's car but we made it. We chose to drive down the day before the track day. Unfortunately a HWP did pull over Brent and defect him and the cop only gave him a few hours to drive the car. Luckily we had some good friends that were towing their registered car down as well so Brent's car had to go back on the trailer. We were driving together when he pulled Brent over but I kept driving. The cop said to Brent I won't make it to Goulburn if another HWP saw me but I made it there and home without a hassle.
Maikul, myself and Brent in pit area.
It rained and it got filthy.
We got some dry track time in too! This is the only 'action' shot of my car that I was able to find. Soooo much fun.
Used up 6 tyres. A lot of tread left on outside though.
Back at home, all cleaned up.
Thanks for reading.