Page 1 of 15 1234567811 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 145

Thread: Wheel Alignment: Specs and Theories

  1. #1
    Grand Sword Bearer Trolls Royce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Daily
    .
    Name
    Chris
    Posts
    2,820

    Wheel Alignment: Specs and Theories

    Sup bro's.

    Had a talk with a dude last night about wheel alignments, and he had some different ideas to me about what worked best. Thought I'd use this as motivation to find out what set up people run, and why, whether it be personal preference or something that is proven to work etc.

    I'm not entirely happy with the alignment on the GTR at the moment, but thats more to do with the lack of adjustment in the right places more than anything else.

    From memory, this is how it's set up at the moment.

    Front
    Camber: 0 degrees, no adjustment available, so I need some camber arms.
    Toe : 2 degrees toe out total, 1 either side. Always preferred the car set up like this, seems to turn in better, but maybe thats just me
    Caster : Whatever factory is, maybe around 5 degrees???

    Rear
    Camber: -2.5 degrees or so, again cos I dont have any adjustment
    Toe: 1 degree toe in, .5 either side.

    Looking at getting front and rear camber arms in order to dial some more camber in on the front and maybe pull some out of the back.

    What do you guys prefer?
    Last edited by Mitchee; 18-11-10 at 01:02 PM.
  2. #2
    Member reaper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Daily
    S14
    2nd Car
    V-Spec II Nur
    Name
    Brett
    Posts
    1,406

    Front
    Camber: -3 degrees
    Toe : 4mm out total
    Caster : 7 degrees

    Rear
    Camber: -1
    Toe: 0mm toe

    pretty mild so fine for street and lots of grip
    brett | reaper
  3. #3
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    QLD
    Daily
    Honda
    Name
    Paul
    Posts
    60

    each car is different, and you have to specify what conditions you want it for...

    i.e. daily drive, track use, hardcore track use...

    if you have a heavier car, i.e. GTR, you want more camber like -2 deg or more... because of the weight transfer to the outer tyres when you corner is more prominent than, say Lotus Elise.

    Toe essentially determines the car's will to turn in. Having toe in, will reduce this... it gets very complicated and depends on what car you have. i.e. FWD, RWD, AWD...
    i.e. my s2000, stock has 6mm toe in on the rear to reduce its oversteer, but then i upgraded to a heavier front swaybar, so i decreased its total toe in to around 3mm... Now i have to find out how that feels on the track!

    anyway, have a read around, maybe specific forums for your car. good luck.
  4. #4
    Member meadan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    oxley park
    Daily
    JDM surf
    2nd Car
    ADM ae86
    Name
    adan
    Posts
    1,420

    On my ae86 i run

    - -2.5 degrees camber
    - ~1.5mm toe out (per side, 3mm in total)
    - maxed out caster rods (the machine wouldnt read it properly, but the bumper needed cutting

    rear isnt adjustable...

    In my opinion, run as much caster as you physically can. I have spoken to a few knowledgable people, and the general idea is to stop adding caster when the steering gets too heavy, or you run out of room.

    Camber depends on what the car is used for. Ultimately Id set it up for which part of the tire you want to be using. So unless you need the camber for grip around corners, it doesnt really need to be crazy. Unless it helps fitting tires under guards of course.....

    Toe in and toe out seems to be a personal preferance. It changes the way the steering feels, and the way the car behaves to the way you turn it. I like mine because it is pretty snappy and direct.
    One thing I heard which is interesting about toe...

    Imagine a you pushed a wheel along the ground, If you tilted the top to give it positive camber (top outwards), it would automatically steer itself outwards.
    If you tilted the top to give it negative camber (top inwards), it would automatically steer itself inwards.

    So if youre running crazy camber, both wheels will be basically fighting themselves on the road, and having some toe out might be a good idea...(hope that makes sense)
  5. #5
    Member CaptainColen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Pineal Gland.
    Daily
    180sx
    Posts
    1,801

    Front
    - -2 deg camber
    - 0 toe
    - wound as far forward as possible with loom relocation, innerlining/washer bottle delete, panel hammering.

    Rear
    - -1.25 deg
    - 0 toe

    I like the way it feels like this, very good turn in without feeling twitchy on the highway. Other people seem to like the way it drives but was thinking of subtracting .5 deg camber all round
  6. #6
    Member R-Tune's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
    Daily
    S ONE FIVE R-TUNE
    Posts
    307

    Set up on my s15 currently

    Front
    Castor + 7 deg.
    Camber -4.00deg.
    Toe -3.00mm total

    Rear
    Camber - 2.5deg
    Toe +1.00mm total

    Pretty neutral set up for S chassis
    Last edited by R-Tune; 29-10-10 at 07:37 PM.
  7. #7
    Member Bang A Dang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    at the Apex
    Daily
    a turtle
    2nd Car
    Bomb Rage
    Name
    Dang
    Posts
    4,411

    Front
    Camber: -1.9
    Toe: 0
    Castor: stock

    Rear
    Camber: -1.5
    Toe: 0

    car turn in is more then enough for me with the addition of the adjustable rear sway hence 0 toe all round
    i think i can do with less camber at the rear but i like the ability to control my car slightly better if the back does temp lose its grip
  8. #8
    Member mrpham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    QLD
    Daily
    Daihatsu Feroza
    2nd Car
    Mazda MX-5 NA6
    Name
    John
    Posts
    728

    My S15 is getting an alignment next week, will adjust front camber to about -2.0 degree and rear camber to around -1.5 degree. Will set max castor for the front and a little toe out. Car is mainly a weekend car, QLD raceway and Lakeside. Will be interesting to see what changes I will get.

    Been reading a few threads on SAU, some good info there.
    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...u-t130630.html

    Current setup:

    Front
    camber -1.5 degree
    castor - stock
    toe - 0

    Rear
    camber - 0 degree
    toe - 0
  9. #9
    Member munchhunch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Daily
    CityRail/Legs
    2nd Car
    180sx
    Name
    Manny
    Posts
    2,978

    If wheel alignment is going to be set to improve a time it has a direct effect on driver style and suspension settings/geometry.

    Will be different for everyone/every car


    Alot of tuner shops like to think they have a set up which will make you quick but its not entirely true.

    Hope this helps
  10. #10
    Grand Sword Bearer Trolls Royce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Daily
    .
    Name
    Chris
    Posts
    2,820

    Quote Originally Posted by R-Tune View Post
    Set up on my s15 currently

    Front
    Castor + 7 deg.
    Camber -4.00deg.
    Toe -3.00mm total

    Rear
    Camber - 2.5deg
    Toe +1.00mm total

    Pretty neutral set up for S chassis
    Sounds about right for an S chassis.

    I want to run around the same on the GTR once I've got my arms, and I'm hoping it will work.

    S chassis and BNR32 feel pretty similar to drive, with the exception that the GTR feels a lot more stable and planted, where as S chassis's sometimes feel a little more nervous in the front end.
Page 1 of 15 1234567811 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •