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Front
Camber: -3 degrees
Toe : 4mm out total
Caster : 7 degrees
Rear
Camber: -1
Toe: 0mm toe
pretty mild so fine for street and lots of grip
Sup bro's.
Had a talk with a dude last night about wheel alignments, and he had some different ideas to me about what worked best. Thought I'd use this as motivation to find out what set up people run, and why, whether it be personal preference or something that is proven to work etc.
I'm not entirely happy with the alignment on the GTR at the moment, but thats more to do with the lack of adjustment in the right places more than anything else.
From memory, this is how it's set up at the moment.
Front
Camber: 0 degrees, no adjustment available, so I need some camber arms.
Toe : 2 degrees toe out total, 1 either side. Always preferred the car set up like this, seems to turn in better, but maybe thats just me
Caster : Whatever factory is, maybe around 5 degrees???
Rear
Camber: -2.5 degrees or so, again cos I dont have any adjustment
Toe: 1 degree toe in, .5 either side.
Looking at getting front and rear camber arms in order to dial some more camber in on the front and maybe pull some out of the back.
What do you guys prefer?
Last edited by Mitchee; 18-11-10 at 01:02 PM.
Front
Camber: -3 degrees
Toe : 4mm out total
Caster : 7 degrees
Rear
Camber: -1
Toe: 0mm toe
pretty mild so fine for street and lots of grip
brett | reaper
each car is different, and you have to specify what conditions you want it for...
i.e. daily drive, track use, hardcore track use...
if you have a heavier car, i.e. GTR, you want more camber like -2 deg or more... because of the weight transfer to the outer tyres when you corner is more prominent than, say Lotus Elise.
Toe essentially determines the car's will to turn in. Having toe in, will reduce this... it gets very complicated and depends on what car you have. i.e. FWD, RWD, AWD...
i.e. my s2000, stock has 6mm toe in on the rear to reduce its oversteer, but then i upgraded to a heavier front swaybar, so i decreased its total toe in to around 3mm... Now i have to find out how that feels on the track!
anyway, have a read around, maybe specific forums for your car. good luck.
On my ae86 i run
- -2.5 degrees camber
- ~1.5mm toe out (per side, 3mm in total)
- maxed out caster rods (the machine wouldnt read it properly, but the bumper needed cutting
rear isnt adjustable...
In my opinion, run as much caster as you physically can. I have spoken to a few knowledgable people, and the general idea is to stop adding caster when the steering gets too heavy, or you run out of room.
Camber depends on what the car is used for. Ultimately Id set it up for which part of the tire you want to be using. So unless you need the camber for grip around corners, it doesnt really need to be crazy. Unless it helps fitting tires under guards of course.....
Toe in and toe out seems to be a personal preferance. It changes the way the steering feels, and the way the car behaves to the way you turn it. I like mine because it is pretty snappy and direct.
One thing I heard which is interesting about toe...
Imagine a you pushed a wheel along the ground, If you tilted the top to give it positive camber (top outwards), it would automatically steer itself outwards.
If you tilted the top to give it negative camber (top inwards), it would automatically steer itself inwards.
So if youre running crazy camber, both wheels will be basically fighting themselves on the road, and having some toe out might be a good idea...(hope that makes sense)
Front
- -2 deg camber
- 0 toe
- wound as far forward as possible with loom relocation, innerlining/washer bottle delete, panel hammering.
Rear
- -1.25 deg
- 0 toe
I like the way it feels like this, very good turn in without feeling twitchy on the highway. Other people seem to like the way it drives but was thinking of subtracting .5 deg camber all round
Set up on my s15 currently
Front
Castor + 7 deg.
Camber -4.00deg.
Toe -3.00mm total
Rear
Camber - 2.5deg
Toe +1.00mm total
Pretty neutral set up for S chassis
Last edited by R-Tune; 29-10-10 at 07:37 PM.
Front
Camber: -1.9
Toe: 0
Castor: stock
Rear
Camber: -1.5
Toe: 0
car turn in is more then enough for me with the addition of the adjustable rear sway hence 0 toe all round
i think i can do with less camber at the rear but i like the ability to control my car slightly better if the back does temp lose its grip
My S15 is getting an alignment next week, will adjust front camber to about -2.0 degree and rear camber to around -1.5 degree. Will set max castor for the front and a little toe out. Car is mainly a weekend car, QLD raceway and Lakeside. Will be interesting to see what changes I will get.
Been reading a few threads on SAU, some good info there.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...u-t130630.html
Current setup:
Front
camber -1.5 degree
castor - stock
toe - 0
Rear
camber - 0 degree
toe - 0
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If wheel alignment is going to be set to improve a time it has a direct effect on driver style and suspension settings/geometry.
Will be different for everyone/every car
Alot of tuner shops like to think they have a set up which will make you quick but its not entirely true.
Hope this helps
Sounds about right for an S chassis.Originally Posted by R-Tune
I want to run around the same on the GTR once I've got my arms, and I'm hoping it will work.
S chassis and BNR32 feel pretty similar to drive, with the exception that the GTR feels a lot more stable and planted, where as S chassis's sometimes feel a little more nervous in the front end.
You're the second person who has said that they hope this helps.
Just to clarify guys, I'm not asking for help. I'm aware of the basic principles of alignments, and I know what I prefer.
I was hoping we'd be able to kick off some discussion and share some opinions.
ahh ok got ya:
For the 180 I did a mild sort of set up (the back was still quite twitchy) This was using KU31 street tyres
Front:
Camber -3 deg
Toe Out 1.5mm each side (total 3mm)
Castor 6deg
Rear:
Camber -1.5 deg
Toe Out 1mm each side (2mm together)
On a NA front wheel drive On street tyres:
Front:
Camber -2.7 deg
Castor Unknown
Toe Out 2.5mm each side 5mm together
Rear:
Camber -1deg
Toe Out 1mm each 2mm together
Again a neutral mild set up but I found the fwd set up was much more neutral handling and much more stable in corners compared to rwd set up.
this is good. listen to brett... mines similar but I run a like 8 deg caster. and a few mm toe in on the rear.
Why would you want toe in on a drift car 3AM?
More rear end stability I guess?
There was a guy in D1 back in the day with a JZX81, Tezuka, who ran a bucket load of toe in on the rear which apparently allowed him to really just stand on the gas without constantly going round.
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