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Thread: Wheel Alignment: Specs and Theories

  1. #11
    Grand Sword Bearer Trolls Royce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by munchhunch View Post
    If wheel alignment is going to be set to improve a time it has a direct effect on driver style and suspension settings/geometry.

    Will be different for everyone/every car


    Alot of tuner shops like to think they have a set up which will make you quick but its not entirely true.

    Hope this helps
    You're the second person who has said that they hope this helps.

    Just to clarify guys, I'm not asking for help. I'm aware of the basic principles of alignments, and I know what I prefer.

    I was hoping we'd be able to kick off some discussion and share some opinions.
  2. #12
    Member munchhunch's Avatar
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    ahh ok got ya:


    For the 180 I did a mild sort of set up (the back was still quite twitchy) This was using KU31 street tyres


    Front:

    Camber -3 deg

    Toe Out 1.5mm each side (total 3mm)

    Castor 6deg


    Rear:

    Camber -1.5 deg

    Toe Out 1mm each side (2mm together)



    On a NA front wheel drive On street tyres:

    Front:

    Camber -2.7 deg

    Castor Unknown

    Toe Out 2.5mm each side 5mm together


    Rear:

    Camber -1deg

    Toe Out 1mm each 2mm together


    Again a neutral mild set up but I found the fwd set up was much more neutral handling and much more stable in corners compared to rwd set up.
  3. #13
    Member 3AM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reaper View Post
    Front
    Camber: -3 degrees
    Toe : 4mm out total
    Caster : 7 degrees

    Rear
    Camber: -1
    Toe: 0mm toe

    pretty mild so fine for street and lots of grip
    this is good. listen to brett... mines similar but I run a like 8 deg caster. and a few mm toe in on the rear.
  4. #14
    Member CaptainColen's Avatar
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    Why would you want toe in on a drift car 3AM?
  5. #15
    Grand Sword Bearer Trolls Royce's Avatar
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    More rear end stability I guess?

    There was a guy in D1 back in the day with a JZX81, Tezuka, who ran a bucket load of toe in on the rear which apparently allowed him to really just stand on the gas without constantly going round.

  6. #16
    Member 3AM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainColen View Post
    Why would you want toe in on a drift car 3AM?
    this is my understanding of it... take it with a grain of salt, it may not necessarily be the correct.

    I probably dont need to put any toe on the rear, as due to my ride height the car will naturally toe in a few mm under power when it squats. - greyed out as most of cars will toe out under compression

    but having a little more toe in coming out of the corner helps me get the power down. gives a bit more forward bite....

    until I correct my RUCA length and traction rod length to prevent the toe moving towards positive
    and id rather it stay negative(toe in) than go positive, which would make it more tail happy or "squirmy" as I like to put it,
    so the toe in causes more stability, and a bit of understeer at turn in but when drifting the car is already massively oversteering, and all my power comes in up top, so its negated
    but yeah means I don't have to modulate the throttle as much. (as brocaine says re: tezuka above). just keep the foot down and go nuts.
    Last edited by 3AM; 30-10-10 at 02:18 PM.
  7. #17
    Member 3AM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eniryks View Post
    rear wheel drive cars naturally toe out under power, but the toe in will help settle the car.
    yeah you're right normally the rear is infact going to toe out when it squats.. which supports running toe in anyway. to counter this.

    I should of said, that I might not need to run static toe in, as with my setup being as low as it is I can theoretically adjust my RUCA and traction rod length to promoted toe in under compression (modifying arc radius),
    so it would toe in when it squats, and eliminate the chance of toeing out all together.

    this is not possible at stock ride height but im still weighing up whether this would be an advantage or not.
    I need to do a full alignment graph from max droop to max compression and work out far my toe actually changes.
    ill probably just leave it as is, and continue to run toe in.
    Last edited by 3AM; 30-10-10 at 02:16 PM.
  8. #18
    Member best guy's Avatar
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    mine is pretty mild atm but it was mostly just so I could get a feel for the car initially

    front
    camber; -2.5
    caster; 8deg
    Toe; 1.7mm total

    rear
    camber; -1deg
    toe; 0

    On the track it feels nice, the big caster is killer. As for the street i'm not really sure i've barely driven it since, you'd have to ask biggie :/


    next time round i will be going

    front
    -3.5deg camber
    4mm toe out total)

    and will probably draw the rear back to -0.5deg camber to try and get maximum life out of the tyres
  9. #19
    Member dead32's Avatar
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    if i had all the arm's under the sun i'd go

    front
    4mm total toe out
    castor around 6-7 "any more is mostly pointless"
    front camber -2.5

    rear
    1mm total toe in
    rear camber -.5 a side
    as close to 0.00 thrust angle as possible

    reason for the mass toe out on front is i have a locker and its a big car so tryin to get it to turn in is intresting.
    majority of your wheel alignment is determind by the type of tyre's your running and what your doing with the thing

    i.e if your a track silvia running say re55's. i'd go more camber front and back etc etc
  10. #20
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    I'm going to go for

    Front Camber -2 degrees (thinking of getting smallest crash bolts and going for about -3 / -4)
    Front Caster: +6
    Front Toe-Out: +1 / 2mm (not to much to maintain some mid corner steering adjustment)

    Rear Camber -1.5 degrees
    Rear Toe-In 3.5mm


    The reason for my big toe in on the rear, is just MR..
    Some people run it Zero'd, but i don't want to deal with a happy rear end.. Especially with all the weight in the arse.
    And torque etc highly advise against the use of zero or positive toe (ie toe out) on your MR



    And chucking this in here, for extra measure.

    To Calculate Degrees of Toe When Given mm of Toe: *Note that this is dependent upon the wheel diameter and tire diameter

    Formula: Calculate the Wheel + Tire Diameter (in mm) for the stock rear wheel + Tire Example: (2 * tire width * aspect ratio / 100) + (wheel diameter) = wheel + tire diameter (2 * 255mm * .4) + (17 * 25.4) = 635.8 mm

    Here the goal is 1 mm of total toe in. (This is 0.5 mm on the driver rear tire and 0.5 mm on the passenger rear tire.)

    We want to calculate the angle each side wheel + tire must deviate from a line parallel to the centerline of the car. arcsin(0.5 mm / 635.8 mm) = .045 deg .045 deg per side * 2 sides = .09 deg total toe in
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