toe is on a different axis to camber so it does not effect it at all? Each track/purpose will determine what alignment you will want to be running. At the end of the day you will want to be running setup which is easy to handle rather then maximum outright mechanical grip. If your car is getting stuck in ruts which deliver it to the dirt and your battling to hold it onto a cambered road then obviously that setup is not for you, despite it providing the theoretically best handling. Getting a little less out of the car for 90% of the time is going to give you a more enjoyable experience.
As far as trade off's are concerned rather they putting caster vs toe you should consider straight line stability vs turn in vs tyre wear. I have yet to test, but i suspect running toe in on a car with lots of camber will reduce the camber wearing away the inside of the tyre whilst toe out will worsen.
I like caster as it gives you more feedback through the steering wheel as to the direction of the front wheels
Do large levels of castor affect streetability of a car?
More Castor allowed you to maintain/gain more camber through turn. ie: Castor is where is lies! You want to be a close to 0 degrees camber for straights, but you want camber as you go through corrners.
Captain colen, castor is rad hey! It changed everything By going from 1 degree to 4 degree castor, camber on full lock increased from 1.5 -ve camber, to 3.5 -ve camber. Then the times at wakefield fell. I was so freaking amazed ey. Not to mention the driving feel, steering response and braking stablity.
Regarding tyre wear, I was using Toyo T1R for 4.5 years, with 3.5mm toe out front, 1mm toe in rear, 3.0 - 3.5 degrees camber front, 1.5 -ve rear - and still had 30% of tyre left - I had done 2 trackdays on those tyres aswell. I swear car weight has so much to do with tyre wear. The evo has done 1 trackday with these hard as shit falkens and a 2000km's street driving and there is like 40% left. Camber and toe is conservative.
Also, on most cars the method of adjusting castor is going to be your castor rods. If you shorten your castor rods, you move the wheel further forward in the arch which can cause them to hit your guard liners etc.
Some vehicles need adjustable strut tops for castor adjustment, like FC RX7's, in which case you're moving the top of the shock back, instead of the bottom of the shock/hub forward. In this case, you're probably not going to notice the wheel moving forward or backward.
In a S-chassis, is the goal to adjust traction arms so that you eliminate all bump-steer? All is some bump-steer desirable?
My car is going to get an alignment tomorrow so hopefully they will be able to sort it all out for me.