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Thread: Wheel Alignment: Specs and Theories

  1. #51
    Grand Sword Bearer Trolls Royce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AYCMACHINE View Post
    ^^ You just confused the crap outta me.

    So are you saying Tow out rear on a AWD/RWD car will have the effects of Oversteer - if so cool, this makes sense in my brain and it's what Heasmans and a few other AWD gurus have told me aswell. You said toe in at the rear stabilises the car, so I guess that is what you meant. If not, i'm lost.

    I'd love to explain the shit that is going through my head right now regarding alignment, but it's impossible.
    This is exactly right.
  2. #52
    Grand Sword Bearer Trolls Royce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3AM View Post
    ive had quite a few scotcheseses(?) so this might not make sense but ....
    im sorry but in my opinion, setting a car up so it toes out, and promotes oversteer whether its static toe or dynamic. is just reinforcing a bad driving habit. (same with tilting rear subframes backwards for "drift" setting)i'll admit im not the fastest round wakefield and killing my ackerman has fucked my lap times severely, but setting up the alignment to promote oversteer, just seems redundant. in rwd platform (and what limited awd, i have driven ) oversteer is so easily achievable, imo its better to set up the car for as much grip as possible, and whether its drift or circuit, in rwd and awd setups toe in promotes grip. and we should leave it at that.

    I agree with all of this except the scotch.
  3. #53
    Member 3AM's Avatar
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    yeah my roll center is fucked now too. its these damn stupid trends, i was happy monster truckin'

    because ive reduced ackerman my inside wheel is going to toe in and drag on cornering, which would mean less grip and more prone to understeer?, but it makes it a hell of a lot more stable when im going sideways down a straight
  4. #54
    Member VTECMACHINE's Avatar
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    Enirkys ^^^ Thanks mate. Just reading up on stuff that you have mentioned there. Your point about finding grip and finding the problem instead of masking it is soooo true.

    someone stickey this thread!
  5. #55
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    Also, i fund running front toe out has its true gain on fast corners, where as i don't find neutral toe to toe out making as much of a differece on slower corners... would toe in even be better on slow corners than toe out?



    and is toe out also compensating for the loss of inner edge grip due to negative camber?


    (and im only referring to front rack alignment, wouldn't the world be easy if we all owned live axles.)
  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by J View Post
    Also, i fund running front toe out has its true gain on fast corners, where as i don't find neutral toe to toe out making as much of a differece on slower corners... would toe in even be better on slow corners than toe out?



    and is toe out also compensating for the loss of inner edge grip due to negative camber?


    (and im only referring to front rack alignment, wouldn't the world be easy if we all owned live axles.)
    If anything, I think I find the opposite with faster and more sweeping corners, but it probably depends on the amount of toe out you're running.

    I've never really seen toe out as a compensation for negative camber though. Anyone else know much about the relationship between the two?
  7. #57
    Member Jays14's Avatar
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    I run pretty much the same as brett...

    Front
    Camber: -3 degrees
    Toe : 4mm out total
    Caster : 7 degrees

    Rear
    Camber: -1
    Toe: 0mm toe

    Any w/a settings around that seem to work for silvias..

    There are so many differences in different makes and models, suspension types on different cars and verables in types of tyers on cars and condition of bushes that the same thing that works for one care may not work well on the same make and model....

    You just got to get a w/a thats recomended for your cars make and model and ajust it other time till you get what works for you and your car (well at lest thats what i did)....
    WTB: 180SX front gards... PM me...
  8. #58

    Quote Originally Posted by Rock Brocaine View Post
    Agreed. The trick is to take your car to a workshop with proven experience. You also need to specify whether you want a more track oriented alignment, or something suitable for street use, as there is a large difference.
    i also agree. it also helps that these 2 places mentioned above have the best wheel alignment machines in the country, which the operators always continually calibrate and check to ensure its giving the correct readings.

    i would never ever go to *insert overmarketed tyre / luxury rim seller here* and get a wheel alignment, after a bad experience when i was desperate to get one done.

    i hate he people who bitch moan and complain about paying a bit extra to get it done at the above mentioned places, then go to habib's down the road to get a $30 wheel alignment to 1. not receive a printout 2. find the car pulls to the left/right and 3. you have no idea wtf someone has just done to the suspension of your vehicle.
  9. #59
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    So got the car back from the alignment place today, very happy with the results so far . Explained to them that I was getting a bit of understeer and the rear felt a bit weird mod-corner so they made some recommendations and we tried it out.

    Rear
    Camber : -1.7 degrees
    Toe : 0mm total

    Front
    Castor : +7 degrees
    Camber : -2.0 degrees
    Toe : 2mm total toe out

    Asked him about adjustments on the rear traction rods, and he said it does need adjustment depending on your camber, toe and ride height.
  10. #60
    Member VTECMACHINE's Avatar
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    How are you guys getting that much castor. Everyone run so much castor! I want more!

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