Page 8 of 15 FirstFirst 123456789101112131415 LastLast
Results 71 to 80 of 144

Thread: Wheel Alignment: Specs and Theories

  1. #71
    Member touge crx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    hornsby heights
    Daily
    EVO 5
    2nd Car
    Supercharged Triton
    Posts
    230

    AYCMACHINE i think you are right about FWD having issues on the dog leg at wakefeild, my CRX has lots of traction issues on that corner. Does any one have any info or theories on FWD alignment specs? Or can some of the principles of seting up say RWD or AWD be aplied to a FWD car?
  2. #72
    Member VTECMACHINE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    London, UK
    Daily
    Honda S2000 (AP2)
    2nd Car
    London Underground
    Name
    Rix
    Posts
    8,826

    Run wider tyres and try a few lines. Also, don't be 100% on throttle coming out of corner. Throttle control is the key for FWD... Oh and a good dif.

    I'm hoping Fatboyzz69 come into this thread and share some setup info.
  3. #73
    Member touge crx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    hornsby heights
    Daily
    EVO 5
    2nd Car
    Supercharged Triton
    Posts
    230

    Quote Originally Posted by AYCMACHINE View Post
    Run wider tyres and try a few lines. Also, don't be 100% on throttle coming out of corner. Throttle control is the key for FWD... Oh and a good dif.
    Quote Originally Posted by eniryks View Post
    that corner is a good corner there is allot of off camber which will unload the inside of the car quite dramatically, if you stand out on the corner on foot it is on quite a incline running up that hill.

    a fwd has there things over a rear wheel drive but most theory is the same you just have to apply it right, fwd is also allot to do with driving style and the lines you take if you drive a rwd line in a fwd you get a large tendency of under steer normally fwds and 4wd share a very similar line where you go in a bit deeper and run a bit wider on entry and transfer all the weight on the front wheels then use that weight to gain grip on the exit of a corner.

    when i go from rwd to fwd my lines and braking points are completely different i can have 6 foot differences at my turn in points to compensate for drive difference.

    every one is different and will have different opinions on this though so i am not saying i am right or wrong but this in my theory.
    Thanks for the responses. Both of you have raised some very good points that realy got me thinking about how i actualy drive the car rather than how i should be driving it through corners. I have recently overhauled the suspension system to camber adjusters and coilovers also using wider tyres. The car is totaly different to drive when compared to the old setup so i think some old habits need some changing before blaming the car.

    Specs for the hell of it.
    springs:
    10kg front
    5kg rear ( both with matched shocks)
    spring pre tention: 10mm front and rear

    W/A specs
    Front:
    castor 3 deg (stock)
    camber -2 deg
    toe 1.5mm out

    Rear:
    camber -1 deg
    toe 1mm in
  4. #74
    Member touge crx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    hornsby heights
    Daily
    EVO 5
    2nd Car
    Supercharged Triton
    Posts
    230

    Droop? Whats droop and how do i check this?
    Bound to rebound ratio? I have heard of the terms and i dont know much about them. How do i find this info out?
    I string lined the car at work today and the alignment was way out!
    Front camber on the NSF was 3 degrees and 20 mins, OSF was 2 degree and 30 mins. Toe is 6mm out. I also found the castor rod bushes had movement in them.
    Rear camber is 2 degree 10 mins on each side. Toe is 1.5mm out.
    Last edited by touge crx; 09-11-10 at 07:25 PM.
  5. #75
    Member mrpham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    QLD
    Daily
    Daihatsu Feroza
    2nd Car
    Mazda MX-5 NA6
    Name
    John
    Posts
    727

    Quote Originally Posted by touge crx View Post
    Droop? Whats droop and how do i check this?
    Bound to rebound ratio? I have heard of the terms and i dont know much about them. How do i find this info out?
    I string lined the car at work today and the alignment was way out!
    Front camber on the NSF was 2 degrees and 80 mins, OSF was 1 degree and 90 mins. Toe is 6mm out. I also found the castor rod bushes had movement in them.
    Rear camber is 1 degree 70 mins on each side. Toe is 1.5mm out.
    Suspension droop is the amount of suspension down travel? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

    Also, degrees are broken down into 60minutes and every minute is further broken down to 60seconds. So did you mean that "2 degrees and 80 mins" should be "3 degrees and 20 minutes"?
  6. #76
    Member VTECMACHINE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    London, UK
    Daily
    Honda S2000 (AP2)
    2nd Car
    London Underground
    Name
    Rix
    Posts
    8,826

    Quote Originally Posted by touge crx View Post
    10kg front
    5kg rear ( both with matched shocks)
    Does your car understeer alot?

    I know it's down to driver preference etc etc and different shocks/springs etc etc. But I have never heard of a Honda running 10F, 5R before. I've run 12F 8R, and the 12K 10R were heaps faster with a bigger rear sway.
    I think you should give it some more toe out on the front aswell. Not saying this will work for you, or i'm right - that's just what i'd do.

    Whilst this thread it informative and answer heaps of questions and is interesting to know what people run - it's sort of hard to comment on what the perfect W/A is. Trial and error I guess, plus testing.
  7. #77
    Member touge crx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    hornsby heights
    Daily
    EVO 5
    2nd Car
    Supercharged Triton
    Posts
    230

    Quote Originally Posted by mrpham View Post
    Also, degrees are broken down into 60minutes and every minute is further broken down to 60seconds. So did you mean that "2 degrees and 80 mins" should be "3 degrees and 20 minutes"?
    Fixed!
    Quote Originally Posted by AYCMACHINE View Post
    Does your car understeer alot?

    I know it's down to driver preference etc etc and different shocks/springs etc etc. But I have never heard of a Honda running 10F, 5R before. I've run 12F 8R, and the 12K 10R were heaps faster with a bigger rear sway.
    I think you should give it some more toe out on the front aswell. Not saying this will work for you, or i'm right - that's just what i'd do.

    Whilst this thread it informative and answer heaps of questions and is interesting to know what people run - it's sort of hard to comment on what the perfect W/A is. Trial and error I guess, plus testing.
    Funnily enough it doesnt understeer at all, however i see a loss of traction as the car trying to tell you that you are doing something wrong so if it starts to go i tone it down a notch.
    12k 10k sounds interesting im guessing it was on an integra. Ive been debating getting an adjustable sway bar but they are 3 times the size of the standard item and i have no idea the affect of such a large swaybar will be. So my question to you and anyone else is from personal experience how swaybar adjustments affect the car?

    Quote Originally Posted by eniryks View Post
    when your wheel moves up in your guard that is call bound or compression and when it drops out of your guard it is called droop or decompression, the reason i ask about your droop is if you do not have enough droop when your car is mid corner and your weight starts to transition and unload the inside wheel if you do not have enough droop you will start to lift your inside wheel off the ground and in a fwd

    A: this will cause loss of traction
    B: this will cause loss of handling
    C: this will over heat your out side tire and cause your rubber to go off quicker the normal

    the reason i ask about your damper bound and rebound setting which is the damper setting in your shocks is if your rebound values are to high you will cause unwanted effects while driving which can be loss of mid corner turning power and braking issues if there is any bumps in the road.

    now i am sure some one here is going to say " if you buy top quality coil overs then you wont get that problem " and who ever that is going to be you are incorrect, Bilstien, Tien, Cusco, BC, and just about all over damp them from factory.

    you can have all your numbers right and if your dampening is wrong your car will still turn like shit, your dampening is is one of the most critical parts of your suspension and you must fond out what your dampening rates are and have the set acordingly to the rest of your suspension.

    to test your suspension properly you really need 2 people with you at the track to do everything while you sit in the car because by the time you get out of the car and start checking things they are all ready cold and the info is useless.
    Droop is an interesting concept ill measure it when i have some time, but a rough guestimation is about 15 to 20cm.
    I tried finding the damping ratio of my coilovers but no luck. I have set the shocks on +10 (0 being soft and 36 hard), im not to sure if that helps.

    Also sorry if im spaming the thread this stuff is realy interesting.
  8. #78
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sunshine coast
    Daily
    nissan
    Posts
    267

    Quote Originally Posted by touge crx View Post
    Thanks for the responses. Both of you have raised some very good points that realy got me thinking about how i actualy drive the car rather than how i should be driving it through corners. I have recently overhauled the suspension system to camber adjusters and coilovers also using wider tyres. The car is totaly different to drive when compared to the old setup so i think some old habits need some changing before blaming the car.

    Specs for the hell of it.
    springs:
    10kg front
    5kg rear ( both with matched shocks)
    spring pre tention: 10mm front and rear

    W/A specs
    Front:
    castor 3 deg (stock)
    camber -2 deg
    toe 1.5mm out

    Rear:
    camber -1 deg
    toe 1mm in
    my fwd alignments are exactly the same almost, i know with my car its all about accelerating out of the corner and making use of the lsd, slow in getting the line right then punching it out.... only driven a rear wheel drive once around a track and it was completely different from memory
  9. #79
    Member marvis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Daily
    EK on sportmaxx
    2nd Car
    NA6 with rotas
    Posts
    283

    Front
    Camber: -3 degrees
    Toe : 4mm out total
    Caster : 6.5 - 7 degrees

    Rear
    Camber: -5 (80's IRS)
    Toe: 2mm total toe in

    For drifting. Toe is slightly less for grip/daily
  10. #80
    Member mrpham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    QLD
    Daily
    Daihatsu Feroza
    2nd Car
    Mazda MX-5 NA6
    Name
    John
    Posts
    727

    So I have a dilemma.... getting re-aligned tomorrow so they will sort it out, but I'm interested in the theory behind it.

    Car isn't crazy lowered or have massive camber/toe, I think it's a pretty modest setup.

    My rear wheels aren't centered in the arch, they sit further back which causes scrubbing on rear of the arch. As I understand it, by shortening my adjustable traction rods it will pull the wheel forward and center it within the arch. No more scrubbing! But if I shorten the rear traction rods then I will have a lot of dynamic toe (bumpsteer?).

    I would like to keep the same camber, toe settings and ride height. But I also want the rear wheels to be more centered within the arch so that I don't scrub.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •