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Thread: mrpham's ITB MX-5

  1. #501
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    Toda High Compression Pistons! - http://omgpham.com/toda-high-compression-pistons

    Welllll than...... A couple new things in this update, and possibly a second post regarding some stuff I've been 3D modelling for the build.

    First up, managed to install this 5V oil pressure sender and input it into the Megasquirt for full datalogging and dash display through Shadow Dash. The tablet mounted using two magnetic mounts clipped to the eye-ball vents. Works very well and has a very strong hold.

    It was surprisingly easy to get working, the sender needs +5v, ground and signal return to the ECU. I happened to use the AD6 input on my Megasquirt, and TunerStudio has a built in wizard to configure your sender.





    Developed a slight oil leak into cylinder no. 4 so took valve cover off to replace the gasket. Remember to go genuine valve cover gasket! I've had nothing but trouble with non-genuine valve cover gaskets.




    Finally bought some new tyres and fresh alignment done! Hankook RS3 225/45 R15.



    Received and installed my IL Motorsport bonnet lifts, not sure if I like them yet.



    Next up, I had some spare parts accumulating and was able to put together this LED bar kit. It's operated via RF remote control that looks like a bomb detonator, the LED light bar and associated electronics (now enclosed in water-proof case) are mounted just behind the front bar.






    Garage Star Coil-on-Plug adapter acquired!



    Toda forged pistons!!! They are 11.0:1 compression ratio and +3mm overbore, made from a special alloy with very littler thermal expansion which allows it to run factory Mazda piston-to-bore clearances. Toda also designed the skirt to allow usage of factory oil squirters. I also ordered the matching overbore head gasket from Toda.




    Some close ups of the pistons.


  2. #502
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    3D Modelling & Printing - http://omgpham.com/3d-modelling-printing

    Ahoy!

    Lately I've been spending more time learning how to model parts in 3D, still new so bare with me. It's not a new concept to me, but I am using Fusion 360 mainly now and sometimes a bit of SolidWorks.

    I've done some prints in the past, a good example would be the bulk head connector plate I drew up and printed. Had it installed in the car while I waited for the final piece to be laser cut from steel.




    And now I'm starting to move onto slightly more detailed designs. Starting of with "remixing" a design from Thingiverse.

    4AGE Black Top Velocity Stack - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25207

    And my "remixed" version, which is basically modified for Silver Top engines instead of Black Top and increasing overall length to 115mm.

    4AGE Silver Top Velocity Stack - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2016083



    I than scrapped that design altogether and did one from scratch, increased the radius lip profile and removed the side bracing. The print below was done in ABS and I'll be testing it for clearance and heat resistance. If all goes well, I'll most likely print my final design in ABS. If not, other materials like Nylon and Poly-carbonate are alternative options for heat resistance.





    And this is another*design I quickly modelled. Main differences being the bottom flange, length adjusted to 105mm and the dimpled internal surface. NO idea how that'll work for airflow, good or bad, but it's fun drawing these and 3D printing them! The idea is from dimpled surfaces on golf balls, and I've seen shops machine dimples onto the back of inlet valves and cylinder head ports.




    And this is how the print came out.... About halfway up the velocity stack, the wall was a tiny bit too thin and the dimples were too deep! Not something I was expecting, but I'll learn from this one and make revisions. This print was also done at 300 micron layer height, I think it needs to be 100-200 micro next time.




    And finally, this is an airbox/plenum that will mount to my current Pipercross filter plate. Still needs some work here and there, but I'm pretty set on the general shape of it and the inlet is 4.5" diameter. The final product could be moulded from the 3D print and made with carbon fibre, or possible printed entirely out of fibre infused nylon for strength and heat resistance.



    More to come!
  3. #503
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Did some small revisions to my airbox design, also quickly mocked up the rest of the components for it. And looks like I'll probably have the airbox printed using Taulman Nylon Alloy 910, very strong and should hold up against the heat.

    Inlet diameter on the airbox is 108mm (4.25"). The duct will be made using laser-cut aluminium sheet, it will also hold the 300mm x 300mm panel filter. I'm planning on mounting the duct under the radiator support alongside a half-sized radiator from a Honda Civic. This should be give me the lowest air temps as well as providing good filtration and high flow.

  4. #504
    Member Modified's Avatar
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    That looks mega trick - how long have you been using 3D printer and software for? All the custom things you're making is cool as, and would be an awesome skill to have!
    Rad-tastic: Radically Fantastic
    My Sil80 - Just a Street Car
  5. #505
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Modified View Post
    That looks mega trick - how long have you been using 3D printer and software for? All the custom things you're making is cool as, and would be an awesome skill to have!
    I've only just bought my own printer, used to get stuff printed by friends or via 3dhubs.com.

    I learnt 2D CAD back in high school, 15years ago, but I've only known how to 3D model for about a month now. Software is super easy to learn now.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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    intake looks awesome!
    cant wait to see it done
  7. #507
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    Where did you get the Turn Signal Intakes?
  8. #508
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Velocity Stacks & Airbox - http://omgpham.com/velocity-stacks-airbox-prototyping

    This is going to be a big photo dump of my latest adventures into 3D printing, both for prototyping and hopefully end usage. I purchased myself a 3D printer, Wanhao Duplicator i3, and I'll do a separate post for that soon. For now let's talk about my experiences with the intake parts I'm prototyping

    I have no real knowledge in both 3D printing/modelling and engine intake theory, I'm just learning as I go, so there will be mistakes here and there. And therefore, not entirely sure if these parts/designs will make any measurable performance gains, but it's all fun anyway!

    In my last post, I had just commissioned some prints of velocity stacks. Well I did some redesigns, and they*can now be found on thingiverse.com, again it's still all a work in progress and I'm not expert in the design theory.

    The velocity stacks are 105mm tall and designed for Silvertop AE101 throttle bodies.




    Next up was designing an airbox for the ITBs and 105mm tall stacks, I pretty much modelled it using the same external dimensions as my Pipercross filter. I did this because I know for sure that it would clear all the brake and clutch parts in the engine bay and I also wanted the ability to easily change from filter to airbox. I can and will make a better design once I have this design fitted and tested.

    For the Pipercross filter and this airbox to clear the stacks, a new mounting plate needed to be made. So I chose to print out a spacer that would be sandwiched between two laser cut plates, you can see it in the previous screenshot.



    Below*is my ideal design, will work on that soon.



    The printed spacer for the filter mounting plate, had to be printed in multiple pieces due to the limited build volume of my printer (200mm x 200mm x 180mm).



    Before doing the actual prototype print I decided to use some rubbish filament for a test print without support material, just to see how far it could go. It failed pretty quick when it got to the dome part, it recovered slightly towards the end though.




    Here you can see the rear section of the airbox being printed, tried to minimise the usage of plastic and support material. This was printed at mostly 200micron layer height and the curved sections were printed at 100micron layer height, varying the layer height like this helps reduce print time as well as reduce support material for the sections with overhang.




    Mid section being printed, by far the easiest part. Only needed support material for the mount flanges, this was printed at 280micron layer height.




    And this is the front section being printed, all printed at 280micron layer height. This part had some design modifications to improve print-ability, also to reduce plastic usage and support material.



    Since this is a prototype for test fitting, sections are glued together using*Cyanoacrylate. Final part will either be epoxied or plastic welded together, not sure yet. Or maybe just use the print as a mold for carbon fibre?




    It's amazing seeing this all come together as one piece, nearly 500mm total length. So happy!





    Photo trying to show the internal clearances with stacks installed, minimum distance to walls is 25mm.



    Some lessons I learned during this entire print are that overhangs causes prints to look like crap. So I've made the following design changes to help reduce overhangs.

    1. I added a chamfer on the inside surface to reduce the overhang angles under*the "dome", this allows me to print with minimal support material, and the chamfer being only 20% solid means I use less plastic overall.
    2. The highlighted flat sections at either ends of the flange remove the overhangs and allows my printer to simply bridge that section, which my printer does very well. This makes the print look cleaner and also reduce support material.
    3. I found that printing holes on a vertical plane produces nasty overhangs and causes imperfections in and around the hole, so I opted to print only dimples instead of a through-hole. This improves the finish and I can just simply drill the holes post print anyway.






    I also modelled this catch can and printed it out for test fitting. Unfortunately, the filament ran out before it completed printing. Was still able to test fit though!



  9. #509
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    This is next level DIY, awesome to read the progress dude!

    How tricky was it to make the design for the fittings to be printed?
    Rad-tastic: Radically Fantastic
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  10. #510
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Modified View Post
    This is next level DIY, awesome to read the progress dude!

    How tricky was it to make the design for the fittings to be printed?
    The software I use, Fusion 360, has the entire McMaster-Carr product catalogue as digital files that you can import into your design. So its really quick to add fittings etc.

    Fusion 360 by Autodesk is also free for hobbyists, students and start-ups.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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