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Thread: mrpham's ITB MX-5

  1. #501
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Toda High Compression Pistons! - http://omgpham.com/toda-high-compression-pistons

    Welllll than...... A couple new things in this update, and possibly a second post regarding some stuff I've been 3D modelling for the build.

    First up, managed to install this 5V oil pressure sender and input it into the Megasquirt for full datalogging and dash display through Shadow Dash. The tablet mounted using two magnetic mounts clipped to the eye-ball vents. Works very well and has a very strong hold.

    It was surprisingly easy to get working, the sender needs +5v, ground and signal return to the ECU. I happened to use the AD6 input on my Megasquirt, and TunerStudio has a built in wizard to configure your sender.





    Developed a slight oil leak into cylinder no. 4 so took valve cover off to replace the gasket. Remember to go genuine valve cover gasket! I've had nothing but trouble with non-genuine valve cover gaskets.




    Finally bought some new tyres and fresh alignment done! Hankook RS3 225/45 R15.



    Received and installed my IL Motorsport bonnet lifts, not sure if I like them yet.



    Next up, I had some spare parts accumulating and was able to put together this LED bar kit. It's operated via RF remote control that looks like a bomb detonator, the LED light bar and associated electronics (now enclosed in water-proof case) are mounted just behind the front bar.






    Garage Star Coil-on-Plug adapter acquired!



    Toda forged pistons!!! They are 11.0:1 compression ratio and +3mm overbore, made from a special alloy with very littler thermal expansion which allows it to run factory Mazda piston-to-bore clearances. Toda also designed the skirt to allow usage of factory oil squirters. I also ordered the matching overbore head gasket from Toda.




    Some close ups of the pistons.


  2. #502
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    3D Modelling & Printing - http://omgpham.com/3d-modelling-printing

    Ahoy!

    Lately I've been spending more time learning how to model parts in 3D, still new so bare with me. It's not a new concept to me, but I am using Fusion 360 mainly now and sometimes a bit of SolidWorks.

    I've done some prints in the past, a good example would be the bulk head connector plate I drew up and printed. Had it installed in the car while I waited for the final piece to be laser cut from steel.




    And now I'm starting to move onto slightly more detailed designs. Starting of with "remixing" a design from Thingiverse.

    4AGE Black Top Velocity Stack - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25207

    And my "remixed" version, which is basically modified for Silver Top engines instead of Black Top and increasing overall length to 115mm.

    4AGE Silver Top Velocity Stack - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2016083



    I than scrapped that design altogether and did one from scratch, increased the radius lip profile and removed the side bracing. The print below was done in ABS and I'll be testing it for clearance and heat resistance. If all goes well, I'll most likely print my final design in ABS. If not, other materials like Nylon and Poly-carbonate are alternative options for heat resistance.





    And this is another*design I quickly modelled. Main differences being the bottom flange, length adjusted to 105mm and the dimpled internal surface. NO idea how that'll work for airflow, good or bad, but it's fun drawing these and 3D printing them! The idea is from dimpled surfaces on golf balls, and I've seen shops machine dimples onto the back of inlet valves and cylinder head ports.




    And this is how the print came out.... About halfway up the velocity stack, the wall was a tiny bit too thin and the dimples were too deep! Not something I was expecting, but I'll learn from this one and make revisions. This print was also done at 300 micron layer height, I think it needs to be 100-200 micro next time.




    And finally, this is an airbox/plenum that will mount to my current Pipercross filter plate. Still needs some work here and there, but I'm pretty set on the general shape of it and the inlet is 4.5" diameter. The final product could be moulded from the 3D print and made with carbon fibre, or possible printed entirely out of fibre infused nylon for strength and heat resistance.



    More to come!
  3. #503
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Did some small revisions to my airbox design, also quickly mocked up the rest of the components for it. And looks like I'll probably have the airbox printed using Taulman Nylon Alloy 910, very strong and should hold up against the heat.

    Inlet diameter on the airbox is 108mm (4.25"). The duct will be made using laser-cut aluminium sheet, it will also hold the 300mm x 300mm panel filter. I'm planning on mounting the duct under the radiator support alongside a half-sized radiator from a Honda Civic. This should be give me the lowest air temps as well as providing good filtration and high flow.

  4. #504
    Member Modified's Avatar
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    That looks mega trick - how long have you been using 3D printer and software for? All the custom things you're making is cool as, and would be an awesome skill to have!
    Rad-tastic: Radically Fantastic
    My Sil80 - Just a Street Car
  5. #505
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Modified View Post
    That looks mega trick - how long have you been using 3D printer and software for? All the custom things you're making is cool as, and would be an awesome skill to have!
    I've only just bought my own printer, used to get stuff printed by friends or via 3dhubs.com.

    I learnt 2D CAD back in high school, 15years ago, but I've only known how to 3D model for about a month now. Software is super easy to learn now.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  6. #506
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    intake looks awesome!
    cant wait to see it done
  7. #507
    Member CJay's Avatar
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    Where did you get the Turn Signal Intakes?

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