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Thread: mrpham's ITB MX-5

  1. #471
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    The white looks so bright and fresh!
  2. #472
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Paint Shop Update 6 - http://omgpham.com/paint-shop-update-6

    Paint has cured and the boys at J&D Quality Smash got straight onto it. The first coats of clear were blocked flat, weird seeing the car in a matte finish. Looks pretty cool but it would be a pain to keep it in good condition, so yeah nah.

    The guys will be painting the rocker panels black and a couple more coats of clear will go over everything.

    Not much else to say, so here are the photos I took today.











  3. #473
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Paint Shop Update 7 - http://omgpham.com/paint-shop-update-7

    Awesome day today!

    Most of the panels are secured onto the body now but only a few things have been gapped properly. I just really wanted the panels back on so they could be towed home securely on the body instead of strapped down behind a ute.

    The flow coat came out amazing! The guys at J&D Quality Smash Repairs*usually give it a polish too, but I figure it would be best to do that after I finish assembly. A few little extra bits need to painted and both windscreens need to be fitted up, but that's about it and I should have the car back mid-next week.

    A pretty cool Lotus Elise was in the shop too



    Installed the boot lid, rear bar and than rear garnish. These panels have been gapped properly.





    Using brand new bolts and flanged nuts with washers wherever I can.



    New rubbers



    The doors/rocker panel have had their rock-guard removed and everything smoothed out. I've kept the black section though, it's gloss black and will go well with the lips/sideskirts that will also be gloss black.



    Bonnet and front guards are on but not gapped yet. These panels will be removed as soon as I get the car back though, keep them safe while I get the engine and wiring done.





    Starting to look something like a car now!

  4. #474
    Member stephen8512's Avatar
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    cant wait to see this done man. Been following it! loving the updates man keep em coming!
  5. #475
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Man I can't wait to drive it again!

    Dropped by before work today and installed the front bar and fit up some brackets I had powder coated. I'm replacing any nuts/bolts I can with new ones too.

  6. #476
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Back Home! - http://omgpham.com/back-home

    Happy day! Car has been towed back home and first thing we did was remove all the front panels Storing them in a spare bedroom for now, don't want to scratch anything during assembly.




    Colour is Audi's Aviator Grey.



    The entire engine bay was covered in blankets during the engine install.




    Hnnnnggggggggggg!!!



    Colour looks amazing in sunlight, the Audi paint code has a bit of pearl through it but can only be seen in direct sunlight.




    The freshly powder coated radiator and sway-bar brackets fitted up with new bolts.



    A quick mock up panel for the engine harness Deutsch bulkhead connectors.



    I had the front lip painted gloss black, will be interesting to see how well it holds up from all the abuse it cops

  7. #477
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    http://omgpham.com/lots-of-photos-wire-tuck

    OK, a decent update. Lot's of photos.

    Because I'm planning to use bulkhead connectors on the firewall for the engine harness, I drew up this plate to mount the connectors. It allows easy disassembly if any changes need to be made or replacing connectors etc. Because I'm recycling parts for this section, the connectors used are Deutsch 12-way DT and Deutsch 31-way HDP.

    Had it 3D printed so I could start the wiring while I wait for the real thing to get laser cut from stainless steel.





    Headlight assemblies in.



    Brake booster, clutch master and radiator in.





    Installed these Garage Star Fender Braces too. Pretty straight forward, comes with all new stainless steel bolts.



    Because I had the valve cover sandblasted and painted, all the baffles need to be removed so the blast media can be cleaned out. Garage Star machined stainless steel valve cover bolts. I've got a whole engine bay dress up bolt kit to go on too.




    Started on the body wiring tuck, wires are coming out of the side behind the front guards. This has been drilled, painted and sealed to keep moisture out.




    Slowly cleaning it up and routing. I've used loom tubing for exterior sections, they provide more protection than just braided sleeving alone.



    The wires re-enter the body from the side, drilled a 24mm hole and than sealed any bare metal. Ideally I should have done all the cutting/drilling before paint, lesson learned. I also picked up these wiring grommets from Clark Rubber.




    I've had to make a few extensions to tuck the body wiring. Instead of soldering, I've been using these uninsulated butt-splice crimps and than heat-shrinking over it.



    Using a factory hole to tuck the wiper motor wiring. I think the hole is normally used for the washer hose, but I'm relocating the washer bottle... More details on that later.




    These exposed wires have been wrapped and loom tubed now. Interior sections are covered in a braided sleeving with heat-shrink on the ends.




    The headlight assemblies back in, most of the wires are out of sight.



    The dual horns installed, and the body harness is done!





    Just so everyone knows, this part of the build is on a strict on budget, won't be MIL Spec or anything like that. Every part was either given to me for free or simply re-used from my old harness. It'll do for now, and I'll look into doing a concentric twisted MIL Spec harness later.

    Below is the wiring for the coils, it is being terminated into a Deutsch 12-way DT connector. This connector contains wiring for the coil triggers (x4), coil power (x4) and the ECU grounds (x4).





    For shielded wires (TPS, crank and cam sensors), what I did was strip the cable further back and unbraided the shield. I than twisted it up and heat-shrinked. It gets terminated into the bulk-head connector and continues onto the other side.




    Finished the crank and cam sensors. This is all a dry fit, once I have it mostly sorted, the wires will be sleeved and heat-shrinked.




    To tuck the starter and charge wires, I had to a slight extraction and feed them through the tunnel.



    So my ITB manifold is shit... The factory Toyota manifold has two dowels per throttle body to locate everything into perfect alignment. If the throttle bodies aren't correctly aligned than they don't open equally no matter how many linkage adjustments are made, not great at all!

    Below is my solution. I mounted my throttle bodies to the Toyota manifold, adjust everything and confirm their alignment. I than bolt the tops of the throttle bodies to a thick plate of steel. The throttle bodies are removed from the Toyota manifold and transferred to my Techno Toy Tuning manifold. DONE! Everything is spot on now.



    Many late nights...

  8. #478
    Member -T8-'s Avatar
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    Do you work in electrical for a living? That wiring job is amazing!

    Shoddy wiring, electrical tape and twisted wires are the bane of my existence.
    I'd love to make up my own connectors like you're doing
  9. #479
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    Just remember for others using shielded wire, one end needs to be earthed. Mrpham has elected to pass the earth through his bulkhead connector to keep it very neat.

    FROM To obtain the intended electromagnetic interference (EMI) protection, it is important that the insulation on shield wiring be properly stripped at the ground end and that it is properly wrapped at the ungrounded end



    Good work John, I still have to do what you are doing to my car
  10. #480
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Hey man.

    Nah I don't do it for a living, just something I've picked up over the years. Slowly getting better and better at it.

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