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Thread: mrpham's ITB MX-5

  1. #481
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Daihatsu Feroza
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    Mazda MX-5 NA6
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    John
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magpie View Post
    Just remember for others using shielded wire, one end needs to be earthed. Mrpham has elected to pass the earth through his bulkhead connector to keep it very neat.

    FROM To obtain the intended electromagnetic interference (EMI) protection, it is important that the insulation on shield wiring be properly stripped at the ground end and that it is properly wrapped at the ungrounded end



    Good work John, I still have to do what you are doing to my car
    Hey old friend!

    I have the shields going to ground at the ECU end, someone once told me it should be earthed at the sensor side but don't think that's right.

    That diagram is very helpful, I think my shield wire is just a bit over 50mm though. You think I should cut them shorter?
  2. #482
    New Member
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    MX5 NA6
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    Mark
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    No problem and no I'm not stalking you

    The consensus is that shielded wire should only be grounded at one end, hence the bottom photo, length does not matter rather that it can't make a secondary earth.

    Your post was handy as I'm having done exactly what your are doing, using shielded wire to the CAS/Crank sensors, trying to narrow down an intermittent miss from the CAS sensor.

    One suggestion would be to put a bulkhead earth point near your connector like these. This way it saves pins on your plugs being used for earths and reduces the chance of any 'noise' going through your plug. This way you could just run a single earth on the other side of the bulkhead


    Are you going to install a lithium battery?

    By the way your car is looking great, looking forward to seeing it in the flesh when it is finished. Still need to organise a photo of the MX5's with ITB's in the Brisbane area.
  3. #483
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Made some more progress today, the engine harness is complete. I also ran four extra wires sitting under the tunnel, just in case I decide to add idle control. Definitely not Mil Spec, but I'm OK with that

    I'll seal everything up once the engine is tuned and running.

  4. #484
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Wiring Complete! - http://omgpham.com/wiring-complete

    So here we are, all done.. All those early mornings before work and late nights after work building the engine harness and tucking the body wiring. Pretty happy overall with the finish product, just a few changes I will make later. Just want to get the car running for now.

    The 3D printed plate will be replaced with a laser cut stainless steel piece.




    Engine harness complete!



    Dummy fitted the intake so I could cut the injector wiring to length.




    The start of the ECU side of the engine harness. All this is being recycled from the previous wiring setup. So handy having everything done with Deutsch connectors.




    Terminating the shielded wires for the crank, cam and TPS sensors.




    Completed!



    The washer bottle has been relocated to under the guard, I think it should clear everything on full lock and compression. It's a bit awkward to refill, but probably only needs to be topped up once a year. This washer bottle is from a Holden HQ I believe.

  5. #485
    Member stephen8512's Avatar
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    cant wait to see this on the road again mate. Well done with everything! Looking forward to seeing the end result!
  6. #486
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Door Cards & Other Bits - http://omgpham.com/door-cards-other-bits

    Some more progress over the last few weeks.I installed new door cards and door pull. The door cards are by CarbonMiata and door pulls by Jass Performance, both products available through my store. I also went with some larger diameter speaker grills, I think it works well with the rest of the interior.




    The interior wiring is now completed.



    Rear lip was painted gloss black and finished mounting that up.



    I used some rubber sheeting to make a gasket for the bulk head connector panel, cost a couple dollars off eBay. Than used some spray on glue to position it on the panel.





    In a previous post I mentioned I had to make a jig to mount my throttle bodies, well below are more details on this. Quality of the T3 manifold isn't the greatest.*Basically because the T3 manifold doesn't have dowels and the throttle body mounting holes aren't in the correct positions, the throttle bodies were never perfectly aligned. This misalignment results in the butterflies not opening evenly. I confirmed this with a spare set of throttle bodies.

    No matter what adjustments were made, the butterflies would either be out of sync at closed throttle or part/full throttle. Even adjusting the bypass screws wouldn't help.

    Not too sure how important it is to have them open evenly, but it can't be a good thing if they're not...

    Below shows a factory Toyota manifold with two locating dowels on each throttle body.



    Throttle bodies mounted to the Toyota manifold and everything dialed in.



    The jig mounted to the throttle bodies using the top holes.



    Throttle bodies unbolted from the Toyota manifold and transferred to the T3 manifold. The threaded holes in the T3 manifold were not spaced correctly so I had to drill out the holes in the throttle bodies to get everything to bolt down.



    Jig plate removed from the throttle bodies and trumpets installed.



    Intake mounted up and injectors connected.



  7. #487
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    01 s2k
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    Todd Higgins
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    I like the door cards and pulls! Thinking about doing something similar with the s2000
  8. #488
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    Eunos Roadester
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    Tee dub
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    Great thread, really enjoyed the read. Have seen this car alot on the net.
  9. #489
    Member mrpham's Avatar
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    Back From Holidays - http://omgpham.com/back-from-holidays



    After the last update, we went for a short trip. Then there was the house move.... So not a whole lot has happened with the build, but still some steps closer to start up .

    I finally received my laser cutting order, the original holes for the wiring have been blocked up and the bulk head panel is done too. All three pieces were painted with a clear-over-base rattle can paint system. Turned out pretty good

    Would also like to look at redoing my brake lines at some stage.




    This is the Jass Performance shifter boot. They're a direct bolt in part with a much more durable boot than the Mazda item. My brand new Mazda replacement lasted just over a year. Will be doing a group buy soon for these



    Interior back together.



    Borrowed a friend's Pipercross air filter for testing fitting. These have an internal height of 120mm I believe, more than suitable for my 75mm velocity stacks.




    But the problem is that it doesn't clear the clutch master cylinder and reservoir. I'm currently talking to a few people with some possible solutions, more info when that's sorted.



    And had my HKS headers ceramic coated by Thermal Edge Coatings.

  10. #490
    Member Modified's Avatar
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    Mitsi Outlander
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    Love the wiring stuff you've done with the connector at the firewall dude, makes everything super neat.

    Just random (and it could be me/the angle of the photo) but is your engine looks like its slightly crooked in the bay?

    The headers also look stunning!
    Rad-tastic: Radically Fantastic
    My Sil80 - Just a Street Car

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