proton satria?? suzuki cultus AWD?? 1MZFE MR2??
I have a mate building one of these up for tarmac rally - being french, everything works brilliantly - when it is working. From what he has been saying they're a bit of bitch to work on.
Yeah, i have thought about getting some for the 5 a few times, but as i have posted, much cheaper to just put a turbo on it.
proton satria?? suzuki cultus AWD?? 1MZFE MR2??
How often would this go to the track? Once or twice a year, or every chance you get? Any preference for FF / FR /RR or AWD?
You asked about handling and I've recently heard good things about EG Civics. I'm no Honda fan boy, but have experienced a '89 4WS Prelude and it was a blast.
The Civic you could learn with and if you crash it, hopefully not much of a loss. If you like it, then you drop in a hot vtec engine when it's time to go faster.
IMO sounds like some good options on a car like this and the low initial cost hopefully means no burning holes in wallet if the worst was to happen.
But honestly, getting out for track days is all about fun, so it shouldn't matter what car you have.
Have a look at racing classes - I think improved production racing has some interesting stuff - Celica and Integras used to do well. Even Cyborg Mirages are NA and quick.
I drive a AWD Magna and have been procrastinating about a track day for ages. FWD Magnas are fast in a straight line and can handle or be made to handle well. There's a few in club races in Australia and engine transplant from a Mitsu 380 engine can give solid power gains. The Ralliart Magna was supposed to be ~ 180kW I think. I assume engine swap is p-plate legal? Disclaimer if buying a Magna: it isn't JDM, but their sibling is a Diamante in Japan, so get some badges and fake being JDMST![]()
Another vote for the Clio. I've just bought one as my criteria was something that was a suitable daily driver, quite fast and could hold it's own on the occasional trackday. I'm yet to track it but the way it goes down twisty roads is awesome, lift-off oversteer is always fun! Doesn't have the peak power figures of an Integra or Sportivo but has a more useable spread of power in my opinion. Also, averages around 6.5L/100km with spirited driving included.
I got mine for only $6K. They will cost more than a Pulsar/Civic to repair but as has already been said, the mechanicals are fairly tough.
As for the Corolla Sportivo, they are fast but they are so frustrating to drive quickly. Gutless as anything until you hit lift, then before you know it you need to change gear as the powerband is so narrow. Each gearchange leads to dropping out of the powerband again due to the gear ratios. Good fun if you're in the mood to be wringing it's neck all of the time but, in reality, 90% of the time it's a chore on the road.
VVTI just kicked in YO
A dc5r?
If it's just an NA car to get you through your P's, I personally wouldn't fuss too much with getting too nice a car out of the box. You'd want something with a little bit of reliability (in that as long as you don't mess with the wiring, it'll start first time 90% of the time) and something forgiving (so that if you bend it a little or punt it into a gutter, it's not too devastating).
This thread has given some great suggestions (old corollas, civics, mirages, older bmw's) and could see myself grabbing one of these if I started all over again. I'd probably add to the list too an n/a S13. My reasons for this is:
-relatively cheap to get into, lots of cheap/attainable spares
-good platform for different types of driving, gives great feedback
-responds well to mods (if you choose to go down this path)
My reason for not going with it include attracting too much attention (people are more aware now of what these cars are as opposed to 10 years ago), and i mean attention from cops, other hoons, thieves.
If i've read between the lines correctly, i believe that you're wanting to learn about car control yes? If so, I wouldn't worry about getting too many mods done. Best tyres you can afford with your budget, upgrade pads and an LSD. If you must lower, get some lower springs and a matched damper. Wouldn't worry too much about coilovers at this stage cos you'll do enough damage with the standard pieces on there. Get some serious seat time and put money towards some advanced driving courses and thats where you'll see your rewards.
any p-platers in QLD looking for a great car to build. I'll sell you mine. 5k
looks exactly like this (more or less)
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you should like downshift on facebook https://www.facebook.com/downshiftaus
I'd suggest what some others have suggested, and it'd be an EG or EK with a B, H or K- swap, coilovers, basic brake upgrades and decent tires. It'll blitz a lot of other similar capacity N/A vehicles on the street AND track.
NA Supra JZA80... Looks better than all the other mentioned cars so far, and grippy and handling - put some 9.5" rears with 285 rubber and you'll be fine. The best thing about them these days is the price you get for the overall package. For a enthusiast driver you;d best to get a SZ-R manual model (basically a NA with al the extra goodies of the TT model: big brakes, recaro, suspension, 6 spd gearboxes etc). It's fast enough to do a 7 sec 0-100km/h (this is a 1993 N/A car) but its not faster than a new Commodore. It will easily out handle a Commodore and a lot of other cars have tried but always fail to on the twisties (Civic, Pulsar, Swift, BMW, Falcons)
Might weigh 1450kg but the overall package you get, power, high end design inside and out, affordable parts everywhere (so many being wrecked these days for cheap), overall its a driving experience more so than a "NA MX5". You look at a girl/grandma/mum/old business man in a MX5... Do you want to be that too?Or would you rather more of a manlier car where people stare because it is a Supra after all... Prices depreciate over time but remember it was like a $70k+ car when it came out and if you find one in decent nick, it'll live forever since they are indestructable in almost all areas. Don't have to worry about engine parts going or headgaskets, bottom ends, top ends, whatever end. It's a 2JZ
Sure I'm biased... But they are a great overall package.
I read a lot of people suggesting Civics/Pulsars/similiar small family style cars that can be "worked". Sure, any car can be worked...
But last time I remember a worked Civic actually on the road owned by a P Plater? Never...
& last time I remember a P plater thinking his Civic would outrun me but couldn't keep up with me after 100m? Too often to quote...
1982 MZ11 Soarer GT-Extra | 1982 Japan Car of the Year + now with N/A 1JZ VVTi
Lol & fwiw the just of what i was sayin, price wise they have come down a lot, and they are a class ahead of a few other cars mentioned here (corollas, civics, mirages, bmws).
Not much more than 7k+ vtec civic asking prices (is that even for real, i guess i wont get started lol).
1982 MZ11 Soarer GT-Extra | 1982 Japan Car of the Year + now with N/A 1JZ VVTi
get a caldina bro.
imagine an ep3 maxi cab.
autech: yes it kinda is. one reason i wouldnt jump in any nissan other than a Z or a heavily worked GTR is cos of nissans disgusting lebo ridden image. its not my fault they always drive silvias, but unfortunately they ruined it for me.
^ Not the Silvias fault, it's your fault for being insecure bro