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Last edited by VTECMACHINE; 26-03-08 at 01:47 AM.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! awesome post!
ok guys heres what ive decided
EBC Green Stuff - $200 for set
RDA Slotted Rotors - $320 for set
Saber Gauges (water + oil temp, oil Press.) - $330 <- (still considering if i can afford gauges)
Circuitclub - $180
Total = $1030
$320 for all 4 rotors?? Or just fronts? Because that's quite exxy man.Originally Posted by OVTEC
If your spending $200 for EBC pads, why not go Project Mu. They are better!
yea its $320 for all 4 rotors
and about the pads ill have a look into them, everyone has been recommending EBC greenstuff
also would it be a better choice to get pads + rotors or just the pads?
EBC greenstuff, I can't stand them! They don't bite. IMO gay.
I wouldn't go anything else but Endless pads now, but Ben from Touge Land has just converted me. I would personally go with Project Mu if on a bit of a budget. Speak to Ben, he will be able to hook you up - as he gets pads quick smart (had a pair of CC-X for me in 2 days - talk about overnight parts from Japan) and for a resonable price too.
I would just stick with Stock rotors if they are fine. Or if they are warped, machine them or replace them.
We need to talk then, if your able to keep stable temps for 20 mins, esp in a turbo, esp at 7000rpm... please help!!!Strange. I've never seen my water temp gauge move higher than normal, and my oil temp has never gone over 90'C. Even if I sit on 7,000rpm for nearly all of a 20 minute session. Interesting that stock cars should overheat, mine's nothing like stock, I'm running an undersized radiator, a massive FMIC, two transmission coolers, air-con condensor and no oil cooler. But the tips above are good
Also, don't put your handbrake on when you're in the pits and try to keep your foot off the brake while stopped after a session. I warped my rotors nicely after doing this. Keep making sure your wheel nuts are tight and don't over-inflate your tyres.
If you ride a single speed and nobody sees you, is it still cool?
gauges > rotors
I think it may be the case that the stock Pulsar temp gauge has a big "dead spot" in the middle of the range, ie the temp goes 78, 79, 80 and then the needle stays in the same spot as the temp rises and doesn't move again until 110, 111, 112, etc.
Stock temp gauges are that way so that ppl don't get freaked out by constant movements in water temp (otherwise you would see fluctuations when the car sits idle compared to when it's moving).
But downside is that when the gauge starts to move beyond the "normal" position, it's 99% of the way to overheating already.
Interesting babs. That's the same with all water temp guages yeh? cos the stock ITR water temp sits contant, as the Defi flucuates alot.
you could just get ordinary gauges if you are on a budget.
maybe ones that Monster recommend a while back from General Auto Instruments. Lidcombe.
they are just there to help you determine how your temps are.
when oil temps starts to rocket then you know when to back off. usually on the 2nd or 3rd hard lap anyhow.
combined with common sense you'll be set.
dude i can get you RDA slotteds for under $250
Also Greenstuff can be had for $150-160 easy. Speak to Matt from Race Brakes Sydney.
I can help you source parts, just let me know.
Stock gauges are meant to sit constant once at operating temp.
If the stock one moves up from normal position means straight away that water is getting too hot.
Iced, how much can you get me DBA or RDA slotted for the rear - nothing fancy, just the average type ones?
brake pro in parra/north parra did some pretty decent prices for me when I went to get some brake pads off them last time before the December track day. Pretty much what Iced said.. about $160 for EBC greenstuff. But don't tell him you're going to take it out to track, because then he gets a bit worried and starts recommending things that'll burn your wallet faster than your brake pads.
I'm not sure how, I'm running the 1.6L N/A radiator on a 2.0L Turbo, and I have a 600x300x76-sized FMIC in the way, air-con condenser and one of my transmission coolers blocking the radiator. I also now have a larger turbo sitting not that far away . I honestly don't know how it runs such good temps, maybe the radiator is something Nissan went overkill on?
I'll see if I change my mind when I get Defi's. As far as I know the oil temp is correct, but who knows. It's certainly never shown signs of overheating but fark, touch any part of my engine bay after a short drive and you will walk away with burns
I've been meaning to do more track days but the hot weather has made me paranoid so I'm waiting for it to cool down.
Yes it does. But if it doesn't move there's nothing to worry aboutI want DEFI's soon just for piece of mind.
I get freaked out by other people's cars. A relatively stock S15 I went in would start overheating after 2 laps, you could watch the temp gauge move from half-way to nearly the top in a matter of 20 seconds.
Last edited by llama_au; 26-03-08 at 09:10 PM.
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