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Thread: Preparing my car for track use

  1. #71
    Member Mr Happ's Avatar
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    another couple of points....

    on track the two gauges to look at are water temperature (all cars have them) and oil pressure (only some cars do). Failing that you will have an engine/oil warning light. Keep your eye on these.

    to start with 4-5 laps of WP at a time are good........come in check things out and then head back out.

    A couple of tricks re water temp.....

    1. you can run your heater at full - the heater works by drawing heat from the coolant. At the very least this will slow down the over heating process, depends on the car as to how effective this is, but it does work.

    2. If you are following a car/s closely this interupts the airflow into the intercooler/radiator. You will run cooler with clean air - so get around them or give them half a lap.....its surprising how quick temps can come down if you get clean air in and stay out of the throttle.
  2. #72
    Member llama_au's Avatar
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    Strange. I've never seen my water temp gauge move higher than normal, and my oil temp has never gone over 90'C. Even if I sit on 7,000rpm for nearly all of a 20 minute session. Interesting that stock cars should overheat, mine's nothing like stock, I'm running an undersized radiator, a massive FMIC, two transmission coolers, air-con condensor and no oil cooler. But the tips above are good

    Also, don't put your handbrake on when you're in the pits and try to keep your foot off the brake while stopped after a session. I warped my rotors nicely after doing this. Keep making sure your wheel nuts are tight and don't over-inflate your tyres.
    Last edited by llama_au; 25-03-08 at 11:00 PM.
    2013 Subaru BRZ
  3. #73
    Member Mr Happ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by llama_au View Post
    Also, don't put your handbrake on when you're in the pits and try to keep your foot off the brake while stopped after a session. I warped my rotors nicely after doing this.
    ahhh yes, this is one is a classic.....easy to forget though!
  4. #74
    Member llama_au's Avatar
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    Yeah I forgot after I'd specifically been told not to. I learnt though
    2013 Subaru BRZ
  5. #75
    Member Serial Killa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by llama_au View Post
    Yeah I forgot after I'd specifically been told not to. I learnt though
    haha yes im glad i was told about this one early on!!

    I like to remove my back seats simply because i can fit a full set of semis in there
  6. #76
    Member VTECMACHINE's Avatar
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    Almost forgot...

    Don't forgot your....














































    ....VTEC CONTROLLLLEERRRRR


    Last edited by VTECMACHINE; 26-03-08 at 01:47 AM.
  7. #77
    Member Bang A Dang's Avatar
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    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! awesome post!
  8. #78
    Member OVTEC's Avatar
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    ok guys heres what ive decided

    EBC Green Stuff - $200 for set

    RDA Slotted Rotors - $320 for set

    Saber Gauges (water + oil temp, oil Press.) - $330 <- (still considering if i can afford gauges)

    Circuitclub - $180

    Total = $1030
  9. #79
    Member VTECMACHINE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OVTEC View Post
    ok guys heres what ive decided

    EBC Green Stuff - $200 for set

    RDA Slotted Rotors - $320 for set

    Saber Gauges (water + oil temp, oil Press.) - $330 <- (still considering if i can afford gauges)

    Circuitclub - $180

    Total = $1030
    $320 for all 4 rotors?? Or just fronts? Because that's quite exxy man.

    If your spending $200 for EBC pads, why not go Project Mu. They are better!
  10. #80
    Member OVTEC's Avatar
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    yea its $320 for all 4 rotors

    and about the pads ill have a look into them, everyone has been recommending EBC greenstuff

    also would it be a better choice to get pads + rotors or just the pads?

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