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Thread: Andrews 1990 Silvia - LS1 swapped, Z32 rear subframe, R230 diff

  1. #21
    Member Redbird's Avatar
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    Awesome work! Good job man, gonna be a mad daily! Great power with good mileage, especially since the S13 weighs nothing compared to what the LS1 usually pushes around.
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  2. #22
    Member (Locky)'s Avatar
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    Was liking where this was going till the LS came in

    Heads up
    If you intend to get it engineered/emmisions They really dont like adjustable FPR and metal air boxs

    Mate passed all the tests, but then got failed because of those 2 then had to go through it all again with stock plastic airbox and make FPR non adjustable
  3. #23
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    1993 MX-5 KL V6 swapped
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDM_S15
    Wow, epic build.
    Keep the updates coming.
    Subscribed
    Thanks mate, will do

    Quote Originally Posted by thomsontrang
    holy crap that was awesome! good job on the welding.
    Thanks I did a night course on TIG welding at TAFE, it was so much fun I'd definitely recommend it to anyone interested in learning to weld.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redbird
    Awesome work! Good job man, gonna be a mad daily! Great power with good mileage, especially since the S13 weighs nothing compared to what the LS1 usually pushes around.
    Cheers mate! Hopefully the fuel economy will be OK, but I'm prepared to pay a bit more for fuel just to have such a mad car

    Quote Originally Posted by (Locky)
    Was liking where this was going till the LS came in

    Heads up
    If you intend to get it engineered/emmisions They really dont like adjustable FPR and metal air boxs

    Mate passed all the tests, but then got failed because of those 2 then had to go through it all again with stock plastic airbox and make FPR non adjustable
    Before the LS1 this was just a boring stock S13 with a front mount and some custom piping :S

    TY about the FPR and airbox, I hadn't even considered that. Did your mate who failed have just a pod filter in a metal box? Or did he have one like mine which uses a panel filter?

    I've been pretty busy over Christmas, hence the lack of updates. I'll be posting more in the new year but the car is very close to finished.

    My to do list reads:
    -Power steering lines (I just finished the difficult part - the high pressure line adapters)
    -Put hose clamps on
    -Fill with fluids
    -FIRST START!
    -Tidy wiring
    -Bleed the clutch
    -Reattach front guard
    -FIRST DRIVE!
    -Mount ECU & OBDII connector
    -Fit 300zx front brakes and master
    -New wipers
    -Replace drivers door lock
    -Engineering
    -REGO!

    All pretty simple now that I have the adapters made for the power steering



    I'm very slow on the lathe so those two adapter represent many, many hours of work. The far one is a banjo to -6 AN for the pumpside and the closer one is an M14 x 1.5 to -6 AN for the steering rack side.

    Tomorrow I'll be making up the high pressure power steering line and going to buy some hose to use on the low pressure side, as well as fluids and an oil filter. With any luck my fuel injection hose clamps will also arrive and I can get it started before next year
  4. #24
    New Member
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    Today was pretty momentous in the project. I first finished up the power steering lines. They're all connected now and just need some brackets to hold them up and maybe a couple of heat shields.

    The return line needed a fairly sharp bend straight out of the rack so I machined a new line from stainless.





    Then I had to make a little adapter for the starter motor signal wire. The Summit mini starter has a bolt on connection whereas the Silvia and commodore both have a slip on crimp thing. I made this from some square brass tubing.



    Not very exciting but it had to be done.

    Finally I painted and installed the driveshaft.



    ...


    Well I say finally, but really after this came filling the car with oil and then...



    IT LIVES!!!!!!! However the fuel pump fuse blew out for some reason, probably the new pump and old dodgy wiring.

    Here's the second start (technically third, but second filmed) where the car ran much better.



    So pumped! Not much to do now before it can be driven around! Woooooooooooooooooooooooooo!
  5. #25
    New Member
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    IT DRIVES!!!



    However the short drive revealed some very bad news.

    Firstly, the fuel pump fuse died again. I think the HP255 pump needs more than 10A to work so I'm going to run a heavy gauge wire to the boot for my sub and run a fused 20 amp off that to a relay triggered by the original fuel pump wire.

    Secondly, the exhaust is way below 100mm on one side and slightly below on the other side. I don't really know how to solve this without ditching the factory cats and going to the 200CPI bullet ones I have. Not sure if it will pass emissions this way but I guess I could run E85 for the test.

    Lastly, and this is a big one, the cylinder head has a crack between the water jacket and the side of the head. Once it was up to temperature I could see coolant fizzing out of nowhere onto the exhaust manifold. I suppose it could be the head gasket but it looks very much like it's coming from the actual surface where the exhaust bolts to.
    In the accident the exhaust manifold on that side was ripped half off so it could very well have cracked the head
  6. #26
    Member big fat paulie's Avatar
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    Nice job getting her running. Though sorry to hear about the head. Good luck getting it sorted.
    isn't paulies motto "i can run faster aroused, than you can scared" - clutch-monkey
  7. #27
    New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by big fat paulie
    Nice job getting her running. Though sorry to hear about the head. Good luck getting it sorted.
    Thanks mate, I'm so annoyed at it but I'm hoping I can weld up the crack if it's just between the water jacket and the outside surface of the head. The crack is so small you can't even see it and only leaks when the cooling system builds pressure so I hope it can be welded back together.

    I just spent 5 1/2 hours cleaning up the garage. I parked both the beasts in there to get a photo







  8. #28
    New Member
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    Today I made a start on the new exhaust. Here's the drivers side coming along nicely.



    Passenger side



    I love this shot of both of them



    I also needed to wire a bigger power wire to the fuel pump. Later S13's had a 15A fuse and wiring to match, but early ones only had a 10A fuse and it's not quite enough to run the big Walbro pump.

    Since I needed a big power wire I figured I might as well wire up an amp and sub I had in the garage from a previous car.



    Pretty ghetto, I need to make a new box which fits better but that's WAY down on the list of priorities for this car. The to do list now reads exhaust, fix clutch reservoir leak, fix cylinder head, tidy wiring under dash, mount PCM and OBDII connector, fit 300zx brakes, and replace drivers side tie rod end.
  9. #29
    Member Glocker's Avatar
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    fuarkkk sick progress mate
  10. #30
    New Member
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    1993 MX-5 KL V6 swapped
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glocker
    fuarkkk sick progress mate
    Haha, cheers mate



    GOOD NEWS EVERYONE!

    The cylinder head isn't cracked! It leaks from 3 of the exhaust manifold bolt holes. I looked it up and apparently this isn't too uncommon and it's an easy fix, just some silicone on the bolts when installing them! I'm so relieved, the manifold is back on and tomorrow I'll refill the system with coolant to make sure the problem is fixed.

    In other news I've been working on making a new muffler. There isn't much room under the Silvia so I couldn't fit both of the Commodores resonators (and they're only a piddly 2 1/4" diameter).



    I decided to modify one of the mufflers to create a dual 2 1/2" in and out chamber muffler. We'll see how it goes, I don't have high hopes, lol.





    OK, so my plan was to put a baffle in the middle which forced all the exhaust to go into the perforated pipe and back out again. However I soon realised this would flow reeeeeaally badly so I also drilled some holes in the baffle.

    Finally the baffle has a spring loaded bypass which opens if there is back pressure (about 1.5 psi will cause it to start to open I think) so it should have some growl at full throttle.





    Here's me opening the baffle



    Fully welded up



    Now I honestly have no idea how this will perform, very badly I suspect, but all I want is for it to pass the noise test and still be loud-ish on full throttle. I'll be teaming this with a huge conventional dual 2" in and out straight through glasspack at the rear.
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