Page 4 of 13 FirstFirst 1234567891011 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 130

Thread: Andrews 1990 Silvia - LS1 swapped, Z32 rear subframe, R230 diff

  1. #31
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    VIC
    Daily
    Camry- poo brown interior!
    2nd Car
    S14a
    Name
    Aaron
    Posts
    188

    Gotta give it to you for the creativity bro. Sick!!!
  2. #32
    Member bevsta's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NSW
    Daily
    s13
    Name
    dan
    Posts
    202

    Love your ideas. Please keep us updated!
  3. #33
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NSW
    Daily
    1993 MX-5 KL V6 swapped
    2nd Car
    1990 Silvia LS1 swap
    Name
    Andrew
    Posts
    86

    Quote Originally Posted by greens14
    Gotta give it to you for the creativity bro. Sick!!!
    Cheers mate

    Quote Originally Posted by bevsta
    Love your ideas. Please keep us updated!
    Thanks mate! Will do

    Well I've been making slow progress on the exhaust. I finally got the front section finished





    Didn't have any mandrel bends so lobsters it is. I want to get a few mandrels for the back section just because it's SO much faster to build that way.

    I fired up the car with just the homemade muffler installed... it's not looking good. It's crazy loud, like louder than when I fired it up with just the stock cats on



    Ah well, I've got a couple of 2.5" bullet mufflers which are going straight after this one and then at the rear there'll be a 1/2 metre long twin 2" glasspack which should really quieten things down.
  4. #34
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NSW
    Daily
    1993 MX-5 KL V6 swapped
    2nd Car
    1990 Silvia LS1 swap
    Name
    Andrew
    Posts
    86

    I've just been plugging away on the exhaust over the last couple of days. First was installing the two mid resonators after my DIY muffler.



    Then I thought I'd have a real go at making the rear muffler. I've read that the bigger a glasspack is the more it muffles, so I measured the space I had for the rear muffler and went to town with the sheet metal.

    First I cut the sheet to size and marked out where to put the bends



    I used two pieces of 25x50x2.0 tubing, some clamps, a pair of adjustable spanners and the ground to bend it to shape



    As you can see it didn't turn out perfectly square, but that doesn't matter.



    Next up was to flare one end of the perforated muffler tubing. This is because the tubing is welded at one end and then the other is just pressed together. This helps with disassembly if you ever have to cut apart/repack the muffler and also decreases the chance of it cracking due to different expansion rates of the tube and the casing.



    Now, being a glasspack means you pack it with glass - fibreglass The cheapest way to do this is fibreglass insulation for houses. This much cost me $10 and would do at least 8 other mufflers of the same size (HUGE)



    The perforated tubes were welded to an end piece and this was tacked to the outer casing.



    Once this was together the packing begins. It's important to fit as much fibreglass in as possible.



    Now it's usually a good idea to put a layer of stainless wool between the perforated tubes and the fibreglass to prevent the glass from blasting out over time. I decided not to do this because it makes the muffler quite a bit louder than a straight glass pack, and I plan on remaking the muffler at a later date when I get some 2.5" perforated tubing. So, for the moment, straight glass will be fine.

    Getting there.



    All done!



    Finally the second end plate is welded on and the whole thing seam welded together.



    Now this muffler is the biggest which can physically fit under the back of an S13. It's extremely heavy because it's made from 1.6mm steel where regular mufflers are made from about 0.9mm, however they're pressed together. 0.9mm is too difficult to weld which is why I went with 1.6. It will also be less tinny sounding (apparently) and a bit quieter.

    All that's left to finish off the exhaust is to get a couple of mandrel bends on Thursday, connect the muffler to the rest of the exhaust and make hangers.

    I've spoken to an engineer about the car and he has suggested a few changes I need to make including new engine and gearbox mounts because my plastic ones will transmit too much vibration. It looks like I can modify my existing brackets to use real engine mounts so that's not too big of a deal. I'll be booking the car in for an emissions test tomorrow, aiming for sometime next week
  5. #35
    Member w00p's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    in your toilet!
    Daily
    nothing interesting
    Posts
    296

    i'm waiting for the day you get this on the road
  6. #36
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NSW
    Daily
    1993 MX-5 KL V6 swapped
    2nd Car
    1990 Silvia LS1 swap
    Name
    Andrew
    Posts
    86

    Quote Originally Posted by w00p
    i'm waiting for the day you get this on the road
    You and me both! Thanks for the comment







    The exhaust is finished! What a mission, I'm glad it's over. Here's a video of what it sounds like.



    i really like it and I'm confident it will pass the noise test. The camera mic seems to resonate at idle, it's not that loud in person.
  7. #37
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NSW
    Daily
    1993 MX-5 KL V6 swapped
    2nd Car
    1990 Silvia LS1 swap
    Name
    Andrew
    Posts
    86

    Well here's what I've been up to the past few weeks when not helping my mate with his car.

    Discovered the cylinder head was cracked in the accident, just between the coolant jacket and the header mating face (hopefully). First I had to remove the head





    Then I stripped off everything except the valve guides and seats



    I was trying to clamp it down to that piece of rubber and pressure test it but there was no way it was going to work.

    Close up of one of the cracks



    The other problem area (cracked all around the thread)



    I preheated the entire cylinder head on the barbecue which seemed to work well, then had at it with the TIG welder.





    Unfortunately I don't have a pic of the head once the welds were ground down. It's currently all bolted back together with a new head gasket and bolts, I'll be testing for leaks tomorrow.

    The other thing I did was to modify the engine mounts from solid nylon to land rover engine mounts. Here's a pic of the original setup.



    Here's the new land rover engine mount next to the solid plastic ones. The land rover one has two captive M10 bolts and is about 6mm shorter.



    First I cut off the stud to fit the new mounts



    Then I welded some 6mm plate onto the face of the mount to space it out and give more meat for the threads.



    Finally I just had to drill and tap in the centre of the plates. It was good because the thread went through both 6mm plates and also the head of the bolt which was cut out so they're plenty strong enough.





    Tomorrow I've got a few mates coming around to completely finish the car except for the 5 stud swap and 300zx brakes (I don't have the parts yet). That will allow it to pass blue/pink slip as soon as I can book it in and I can apply for an unregistered vehicle permit to drive it to the engineer and emissions test!
  8. #38
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NSW
    Daily
    1993 MX-5 KL V6 swapped
    2nd Car
    1990 Silvia LS1 swap
    Name
    Andrew
    Posts
    86

    Well the cylinder head still leaks, but only from one of the places I welded which is good. I'm going to have to pull it off, re-weld and then reinstall with a new head gasket. It's very disappointing but it's my own fault for buying such a trashed donor car.

    A few days ago I finished modifying the gearbox mount to use land rover mounts rather than the solid nylon blocks it had.





    I've also bought a set of R33 rear hubs and some front conversion hubs from the states to make it all 5 stud. I scored some 17x8 ROH Drift R rims (8" wide is the most I can legally go ) to match. This is all to clear the z32 brakes which my engineer wants on the car, and while I could have bought some 4 stud wheels which would fit they would have been much more expensive than converting to 5 stud. 5 stud also means I can get cheaper drift/race wheels if I decide to go down that path.



    The centre needs repainting but they have next to no gutter rash and should come up nicely
  9. #39
    Member fooku's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Lalor Park NSW
    Daily
    2002 WRX Club Spec Hatch
    Name
    Bec
    Posts
    100

    That car rolled but the airbags didnt go off? WTF?
  10. #40
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Daily
    RPS13
    Posts
    3,873

    i thought it was bad to heat up a head as it can soften the alloy which in turn causes the torque settings to always be wrong

    also why not just go to pick and payless and get a muffler off a car with an engine similar or larger specs and use that?
Page 4 of 13 FirstFirst 1234567891011 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •