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Thread: [QLD] S15 Spec R

  1. #71
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    Ever since changing over my accessory belts, I had developed a power steering leak. After becoming sick of having to top up my fluid every few weeks since I couldn't accurately identify the exact location of the leak, I narrowed it down to the feed hose from the reservoir (the hose dead centre in the picture, below the banjo fitting). Best to remove the intake so you can get a good look at the hoses (don't forget to plug up the intake pipe, I've used a glove here, see the black round object at the top of the image). The picture doesn't exactly show it, but the lower area below the hose had become coated in oil and just looked nasty in general. I had to remove the bracket on the reservoir which holds it to the strut tower to access the hose clamp properly, as the reservoir didn't want to slide up off the bracket, and I didn't want to risk cracking it. It's only three bolts holding it in place, so no big deal. I did empty out the fluid in the reservoir using a big syringe and bit of plastic hose. Then it's just a matter of removing the clamps, pulling the hose off either end and installing the new one. Fairly painless all in all. Got the other bits back in, then gave the area a bit of a clean with some Bowden's Orange Agent. So far, looks to have solved the issue.

    Last edited by Taikyu.; 27-11-18 at 10:03 AM.
  2. #72
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    Only a minor task but it might help somebody in the future. My TE37 stickers on the front drivers side has become quite worn out and with my regular cleaning, the pressure washer kept lifting the edges. So I had ordered some stickers along with the wheel nuts (better for shipping prices than just shipping stickers from Japan). I recommend giving the wheels a good clean beforehand.





    Now you can choose to do this with the wheel on or off, depending on the space you have. I opted to leave it on the car since it was comfortable enough for me to work on the floor in my garage. Before beginning work, I masked off the corners where the stickers are so that I know roughly where I need to apply the new stickers. This tape is 3M painter's tape, can get it from bunnings for a few bucks and pretty handy for a number of things (like when I do paint correction). From here, you have in my opinion, two options. A plastic scraper or a razor blade. The plastic scraper works better when the edges are lifted like on the Volk Sticker. However it will struggle to get under stickers like the Rays one which had mostly stayed on. Best to use a new single edge razor (can get them from the chemist) as this will allow you easily get under the edges. As long as you approach the sticker with a very shallow angle, you will not damage the wheel surface. I had no issues using a razor and had no damage.



    Once the sticker is off, just a matter of prepping the surface. I used Bowden's Own Orange Agent for the heavy lifting then finished with Gyeon Prep Spray (love this product) to remove any remaining residue.



    Now you can apply the sticker. If you applied the masking tape well before hand, it might be a bit difficult to apply the new sticker without catching some of the masking tape (very easily noticeable with green tape!). So I recommend removing one edge, so you've got some room to work with. These stickers have a double layer type application. So you apply the sticker itself and a larger clear sticker. This allows you the chance to line things up before applying even pressure. I left the big sticker on while I applied the other to give some time and avoid lifting the main sticker. Once you're sure there's enough adhesion for the main sticker, you can lift the larger clear sticker.




    If all goes well, you'll have now applied a new sticker successfully. Tidy up the surrounding area and you're on your way.
  3. #73
    Member mloo's Avatar
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    If I ever get my grubby mitts on a set of TE37's defs using this as inspo Taikyu!

    More updates plz
  4. #74
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    Small update for today. Not quite sure but I had managed to crack one corner of my coilpack cover, so it wouldn't seal up properly. Must have accidentally overtorqued it or something after a service (see picture). Not a big deal really , but it was something I was looking to address.



    Just so happened this week, a parts reseller had what I needed. With the Weld covers being a lot harder to come by second hand, a Tomei one would work just fine. This looked to be in brand new condition and priced very well. Although upon picking it up, I had noticed a blemish/burn of some sort at the back of the cover. Not necessarily a major issue as that sits at the back of the engine bay.





    I knew this would be a job for some metal polish. This stuff I rarely use but it always manages to surprise me. Cover was fairly clean but gave it a quick clean and then applied the metal polish to a buffing pad (a hand pad, not machine) . To my surprise, with very little effort, the blemish lifted off very easily. Applied it to the rest of the cover to get it looking nice and job done. No picture mounted in the car because my rocker cover needs to be redone, but at least I have a good reason to. I did notice however the cover does not sit very flush in its spot, not sure what the go is there but it bolted up just fine. On that note, I do need to change the OEM cover bolts for something a little newer, maybe with a hex head instead of T25. Enjoy the remaining pictures (note the metal polish: California Custom Purple Metal Polish [got it from Autobarn]).



  5. #75
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    Earlier in the year I picked up a genuine aero bumper with the intention of having it repaired (see back a page or two) and then painted to match. After letting it sit in the shed while I was attending to other things, I found a workshop who fit my criteria. Some don't want to take a few minutes to chat and having to transport a bumper around as well as the car is a hassle in itself especially living on the north side when most decent shops are south side. Eventually I found a shop who were close to me, had excellent previous work with other cars and gave me the time of day. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves but I am very stoked with the outcome. The bar came up great. I also took this opportunity to have the bootlid holes filled (where the centre post sits on the factory wing). After getting the car home that afternoon, I immediately pulled the front bumper off and did the Wisesquare headlight lens replacement. This task was daunting but a guide helped a lot in easing those tensions. Just needed to increase the heat to 90C and the lenses came off quite easily. Then just a matter of getting the butyl tape out while it was hot. And the results speak for themselves.

    Took off the bumper to get better access to the bolts securing it to the inside of the front guard. You can see the condition of the lens, a lot of the damage was inside so a simple restoration (which I had done) was fairly limited in the benefit achieved



    Baking in the oven to get the tape/glue nice and soft



    With the two pieces apart. Best to get the glue out while it's hot out of the oven, otherwise it stiffens up significantly and you want to remove as much of it as possible to get the new tape in and create a good seal. Sealing the two new pieces together was the hardest part in my opinion because the butyl tape is quite unforgiving and you need to apply a lot of pressure to get it right.



    The new lens waiting to be installed with the shroud transferred over. Some people opt to paint this but I quite like the dark grey colour




    The all important finished result






    Last edited by Taikyu.; 22-12-18 at 08:58 PM.
  6. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taikyu. View Post
    Earlier in the year I picked up a genuine aero bumper with the intention of having it repaired (see back a page or two) and then painted to match. After letting it sit in the shed while I was attending to other things, I found a workshop who fit my criteria. Some don't want to take a few minutes to chat and having to transport a bumper around as well as the car is a hassle in itself especially living on the north side when most decent shops are south side. Eventually I found a shop who were close to me, had excellent previous work with other cars and gave me the time of day. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves but I am very stoked with the outcome. The bar came up great. I also took this opportunity to have the bootlid holes filled (where the centre post sits on the factory wing). After getting the car home that afternoon, I immediately pulled the front bumper off and did the Wisesquare headlight lens replacement. This task was daunting but a guide helped a lot in easing those tensions. Just needed to increase the heat to 90C and the lenses came off quite easily. Then just a matter of getting the butyl tape out while it was hot. And the results speak for themselves.

    Took off the bumper to get better access to the bolts securing it to the inside of the front guard. You can see the condition of the lens, a lot of the damage was inside so a simple restoration (which I had done) was fairly limited in the benefit achieved



    Baking in the oven to get the tape/glue nice and soft



    With the two pieces apart. Best to get the glue out while it's hot out of the oven, otherwise it stiffens up significantly and you want to remove as much of it as possible to get the new tape in and create a good seal. Sealing the two new pieces together was the hardest part in my opinion because the butyl tape is quite unforgiving and you need to apply a lot of pressure to get it right.



    The new lens waiting to be installed with the shroud transferred over. Some people opt to paint this but I quite like the dark grey colour




    The all important finished result






    This is fresh as Taikyu! Loving it
  7. #77
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    Minor update this time around.

    Car had reached its minor service interval which consists of oil, filter and spark plugs. I maintain a spreadsheet which I keep track of what needs to be change at certain intervals (based on the service manual's recommendations). This has made me realise that next service will require a gearbox and diff oil change which is not fun doing off the floor, so I'll be trying to sus out a friend with a hoist to make life a bit easier. With my current mileage, I don't anticipate having to do this until Winter, which is some consolation. Though prices can be absolutely insane, can't say enough good things about this Snap-On torque wrench. The battery connector is a bit finicky but it is miles easier just selecting the specified torque and then just waiting for the tone. Very simple and intuitive.



    I've known in the back of my mind that my tyres are/were getting close to their end of life. However, I didn't realise how soon until this morning when I was undergoing some other inspection. The picture says it all really, this is the front passenger side. The driver's side wasn't anywhere as bad. You can see the aggressive camber wear but this was expected, based on the size of the front wheels and the requirement to have the wheels inside the guards. Had a fairly good run with these tyres (about 4 years) including a track day.



    Given my use of the car (primarily street), I again went with RE003 in 225/45 (Front) and 245/45 (Rear). While they are quite pricey, they've given me a good balance of dry and wet weather performance. Thankfully I have a contact who had the tyres in stock and by lunch time I had the new tyres on, balanced and aligned.




  8. #78
    Member Modified's Avatar
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    Rad car - really liked the write up for the TE stickers. I was thinking a chalk pen to mark out where, but tape is a better idea.

    Next time you're up for new tyres, try the Michelin Pilot Sport 4. Similar price to the RE003s, with a similar level of dry performance. In the wet I feel they're a bit better.
    Rad-tastic: Radically Fantastic
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  9. #79
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    Update time!

    As I probably posted a few years ago now, I had collected the following:

    • Defi Zd Gauge System
    • PWR Oil Cooler
    • Tomei Oil Filter Housing block
    • Greddy oil filter relocation



    Finally, these parts are on. The cooler core tucked in nicely behind the driver's side foglight and the filter has been relocated near the sump. I will likely change from OEM filter to a HKS filter (using S13 filters) as the OE filter sits a bit too low for my comfort. Setting up and changing the settings on the Zd are horrendous, given the various combination of buttons you have to input just to get a certain menu and then the menu controls change in each menu. But whatever, most of the default settings are quite good and required minimal tweaking. Also for whatever reason my defi control unit was dead but thankfully a friend had the exact same model sitting around which did the trick. Here are some pictures. Another update coming very soon












    Last edited by Taikyu.; 08-07-19 at 09:40 PM.
  10. #80
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    Two updates in a week!

    Again, after a lot of reading and learning, I decided to go with a Gen II GTX2867 .64 rear. The plan being that this will be a replacement for the factory turbo fitment-wise, while complementing the current modifications and standard engine. While I had planned to run these in conjunction with some drop-in cams (Tomei Poncams), I may push to have the turbo done on its own to see how things are. It may well be the case that cams will not be needed for a turbo of this size. Hopefully I won't have this sitting around for too long!

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