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Thread: Babs' IS-F: Drift Luxe

  1. #11
    Moderator Babalouie's Avatar
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    I'd like a JoeZ exhaust, but with the current exchange rate it'll be $2.5k landed.

    X-Force is a similar design and should be about $1200, so I think I'll give that a go.

    First "mod" will be rewiring the shifter, so that it's "pull back for change up".


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. #12

    Yup the price of mods for this car is freakin ridiculous! Where did you price that Joe-z exhaust from?

    Reading on some of the forums they say Chatswood Lexus is a supplier for them and Ppe headers too. Not sure if they still do it. (I'm in Bris) Would love to get my hands on a set, but the price.......
  3. #13
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    you sir always have the best decisions in vehicles! this is in my short list when the time comes.
  4. #14
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    Saw this on the weekend during a traffic jam so had plenty of time to appreciate how gorgeous this looks
  5. #15
    Member danga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Babalouie View Post
    I'd like a JoeZ exhaust, but with the current exchange rate it'll be $2.5k landed.

    X-Force is a similar design and should be about $1200, so I think I'll give that a go.

    First "mod" will be rewiring the shifter, so that it's "pull back for change up".


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    how do you find the shift? have you driven anything with dual clutch transmission to compare?
  6. #16
    Moderator Babalouie's Avatar
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    Holy smokes, this thing is fast. (Many thanks to my good friend Reggie for these epic pics)


    It's been a month and a bit of ownership, and I did spend the first few weeks being a little intimidated of the car. It seemed to light up the traction control indicator all the time, and when shifting in manual mode, it would change gears with such violence that it would often bark the tyres, and in one notable occasion; spit the tail sideways with sufficient force, that a half turn of opposite lock was required to get it back. It felt heavy and a little wooden, and alternated between feeling like it didn't have enough grip at either end. Looking at the tyres, they *look* big at 19inches, but the actual footprint of 225/255 is actually exactly the same as my wife's bog standard IS250...which notably doesn't have a heavy V8 hanging over the front axle.


    But the funny thing was; when you got it on a winding road and you were driving properly, then it became a pussycat. Ie, when you're braking into corners and accelerating past the apex, it settled down a lot and the feedback started to really flow through. The traction control could be left totally off without fear and it's especially fast and really rock solid in the 3rd gear and upwards corners. In the tight and nadgety stuff it does feel big, but it still gets stuck into it and I think it's mainly a confidence issue on my behalf, because I'm used to much smaller and lighter cars.


    So yes, having lots of fun with this and it's got a lot of personality.

    But one driving issue I had, was dealing with the manual mode shift, which is set the wrong way, requiring a push-forward to change up. Sure, on a winding road it's more natural to keep your hands at 9 and 3, and use the paddles...but if you have a bit of oppy lock on, it seems more natural to reach for the stick rather than wait for the wheel to straighten and then pull the paddle. And without fail...I'd instinctively pull back for an upchange, which is probably as a result of way too many decades playing video games.


    A DIY solution to swap the gearshift around exists though, and the first step is to remove the side pieces on the centre console trim. You very gently prise the back part upwards...


    ...and work towards the front. The clips are oriented such that you pull the trim off diagonally backwards.


    Then you spin off the gearknob, and pop off the centre console trim


    Unplug the 2 wires for the seat heater and the light for the PRNDL plate, and the centre console trim can be set aside.


    To get a bit more room to work; remove 2 screws and the ashtray will come off.


    The wiring connector we need to hack, is that one right there, at the front of the gearshift assembly.


    Once you unplug the connector, you can see pink and light purple wires at the top...they need to be swapped around.


    First, you prise this pin lock bar upwards. The wiring pins have these tabs that stick up, and when this pin lock bar is clicked-down in place, the pins are locked in position. So you need to scooch this up by a few mm to unlock it.


    And now you can juuust about see in this pic...that the metal wiring pins are held in by these plastic locking tabs. What you can't see, is that each tab has a handy little ledge that sticks out.


    To release them, you get the smallest, 1mm wide screwdriver from your tiny-screwdriver set, and prise the ledge upwards, and this will allow the wiring pin to be wiggled out the back of the connector.


    And if you're like me...then you'll easily get the first pin out, and then in your impatience, you'll mangle the little ledge on the second pin's locking tab..mangle it to the point where that it ain't gonna come out for no man.

    ...and that's when retail therapy comes to the rescue. TOM'S Racing has a product which reverses the shift pattern, and after a little paypal action, the EMS Fairy delivers a box to your door. What a time to be alive.


    It's not really rocket science (and I think I won't be applying those stickers)


    It's just a male and female version of the stock wiring connectors and if you look closely, you can see that the red and brown wires swap over. Same result as the cheapass DIY version we were trying to do.


    It just plugs in between the stock plug and the gearshifter and that's it.


    While I was at it, I also got the splendidly named TOM'S Super Ram II Street High Performance Air Filter


    It looks to be the same as the R-Magic branded filter I have in the FD, which is made by Pipercross and is a washable dry-foam which needs no oil.


    In the FD, I reckon it does make it a tiny bit crisper on the throttle, but given that's an oldschool turbo and the ISF is normally aspirated, I doubt there'll be any discernible difference.


    First we pop off the engine cover to reveal the mess that was hiding underneath.


    The valve cover breather tubes are held in with spring clips, which have these ears sticking out, and you can just compress them with your fingers and wiggle the hoses off the intake pipe.


    Then the L-shaped intake pipe between the airbox and throttle body can come off..


    Then you undo these clips on the airbox and slide the cover back to swap the fliter elements. The old Toyota-branded one wasn't too dirty.


    A popular stage-1 mod is to replace the intake pipe with an aftermarket one, which frees up a small handful of hp. BTW that protruding box is like an echo chamber, to amplify the induction noise.


    But there's just a little hole that leads to the chamber, and the inside of the intake pipe is relatively smooth. So I think I'll be sticking with the stock piece for the sake of the noise; it doesn't look like it impedes the airflow all that much.


    Last mod for the weekend, is to do something about the rear brakes. The discs look very lipped and the pads are just an mm or so away from the pad indicator.


    The 2 piston Brembo-made calipers hold the pads in with two pins, and that cross-shaped pad spring.


    First, you gently tap out the pins with a 6mm drift and a small hammer.


    The pins have this spring loaded ball thingo at the end, which clicks into this internal groove in the caliper. So once you tap them out of the groove, you can wiggle out the pins by hand.


    Yeah, those are toast. The pads are Toyota-branded.


    New pads are Brembo. They are rated to 650C, so should be okay for light trackday use, but reputedly they dust up pretty bad, so I may just keep them as track pads. We'll see.


    Once I pull out one pad, I use it to lever the caliper piston back.


    Then I put a new pad on that side as a placeholder, while I lever in the piston on the other side. If you don't put a new, thick pad in there, the piston on the other side will pop out as you push in the opposing piston.


    Pistons all pushed in, the caliper is unbolted and hung from a hook, so that the hose won't stretch


    The discs have these M6 threads, so that you can insert some M6 bolts and as you tighten them the discs will push away from the hub. Oh...make sure the handbrake is disengaged before you do this, for reasons which will become self evident.


    Because once teh disc is off, you can see that the handbrake mechanism is a drum arrangement....


    ...that used the inside of the disc as a drum brake surface.


    The old discs were down to 26.8mm; min thickness is 26mm, so while there's some life left, we might as well swap them out.


    I actually don't like cross drilled discs as they're a bit more crack prone, and I notice that Lexus has fitted undrilled but slotted discs to the RCF and GSF, so I figure that's good enough for me. The new discs are DBA T2. That thing with the slot is a rubber plug that you swap over from the old discs; removing the plug gives access to the handbrake adjuster mechanism.


    And then we hit the road to break in the new pads and discs. The objective of this is to 1) bake off the resins from manufacturing that are inside the pad and 2) lay a thin layer of brake pad friction material onto the disc. To do this, you just find an industrial road where you can accelerate to 80 and brake hard down to 10km/h about 15 times in succession (without stopping). And then hit the freeway for about 5-10mins of cooling down, and that's that.
  7. #17
    Moderator Babalouie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexl8891 View Post
    Yup the price of mods for this car is freakin ridiculous! Where did you price that Joe-z exhaust from?

    Reading on some of the forums they say Chatswood Lexus is a supplier for them and Ppe headers too. Not sure if they still do it. (I'm in Bris) Would love to get my hands on a set, but the price.......
    Chatswood Lexus used to bring in JoeZ and offer it to their customers, and AFAIK they haven't done this for several years, since the exchange rate tanked.

    Quote Originally Posted by danga View Post
    how do you find the shift? have you driven anything with dual clutch transmission to compare?
    It's very different. On normal mode, it's a regular auto; very slurry shifts. But in manual mode, it locks the torque convertor and shifts with an ignition cut, so it actually sounds kinda like a manual change, and changes gear with a BANG and often it's enough to break traction. So yeah, very much Jekyll and Hyde.
  8. #18
    Moderator Babalouie's Avatar
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    Sorry guys, but I won't be updating the build thread on this forum anymore. Everytime I log on, I have to spend an hour cleaning out all the spam posts, and ain't nobody got time for that no 'mo.

    If you'd like to follow the build, you can do so here: http://au.lexusownersclub.com/forums...enance-thread/
  9. #19
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    *jumps tp lexus owners club*
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