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Thread: 1990 S13 Silvia, OEM style...but not!

  1. #21
    Grand Sword Bearer Trolls Royce's Avatar
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    That'd look the business.
  2. #22
    Member nebuchernezzer's Avatar
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    CD5 Accord, S13 Silvia
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    I bought this for my Silvia, HKS Legal JASMA approved (ie road legal in Japan) exhaust. It's supposed to be sub 96dB, should be alot quieter and less attention getting than my current exhaust which basically has no muffling at all! Also it's kind of a different style to the cannons everyone has.


    Also thinking of bidding on these 17x9 and 17x9.5 SSR reverse mesh. They would need 25mm spacers all round but that's ok by me! It'd suit the older look for the car me thinks. About half the price of SSR LM-9s too.

  3. #23
    Member josh..'s Avatar
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    they are freaking awsom!
  4. #24
    Member nebuchernezzer's Avatar
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    CD5 Accord, S13 Silvia
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    810 200B S12 Gazelle
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    Jarich
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    Update!
    I've got some stuff in the container coming back for this car, but since the container isn't ready to pick up yet (next week) I'll keep it a secret and just show people what I did this week .
    The first two things aren't real exciting and both were for blue slip. Firstly I took the exhaust off and made up some silencers for it. The exhaust is a straight through 3" system without anything in the way of muffling (it has a muffler, but only one). I made two 25mm diameter baffles to bolt in where the flanges are. This quietened it down nicely.

    Secondly I raised the suspension about 40mm.

    Thirdly I moved one of the main wiring harnesses from the drivers side wheel arch to the engine bay. This loom often gets damaged on low S13s because it's located directly above the wheel. I've had it shielded by a piece of metal before but after a while the metal tore off and the loom was a bit damaged. In Japan it was common to move the loom entirely to the engine bay (it was done on my 180sx in Japan) so I thought meh I might as well just do it. You can do it with and without cutting the loom, but I chose the neater cutting and lengthening route.
    The non cutting route involves unplugging the super multiple junction, stuffing it back into the guard then threading it through the engine bay and plugging it back in. Doing this the loom only juuust makes it and you have to stretch it accross the strut top area, also the super multiple junction is bulky so it's a pain to do and I'm told you have to grind the plug a little to get it through some holes.

    The way I did it was like so:
    First I cut off the damaged covering and so on and cut the wires, you could stagger your cuts so that you don't have a bundle of joins in the same location for a neater look, but I didn't. You can see in the photos the clips that hold the loom at the top of the guard, although the loom has been pulled down by the time I took the photos.


    Then thread the loom into the engine bay.

    And then start extending the wires to go around the strut top (neatest looking path).


    Then when you are finished, wrap the whole lot and voila.

  5. #25
    Member dead32's Avatar
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    same wireing mod done to my sil80, its alot nicer knowing the harness is gona stay in 1 piece loll.
  6. #26
    Member nebuchernezzer's Avatar
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    CD5 Accord, S13 Silvia
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    Jarich
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    Indeed!
    If anyone else does this, label your wires first by the way . The colours are mostly but not entirely unique...
    The reversing lights and horn are the same colour for example...
  7. #27
    New Member
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    nice job
  8. #28
    Member Manny's Avatar
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    Wow, that rear end repair job was amazing...never saw this thread before.
  9. #29
    Member wilch's Avatar
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    Supercharged MX5
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    wow, amazing work dude! Kudos to you and your father.
  10. #30
    Member cannonball's Avatar
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    a VN Commodore
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    It'l be good to see this thing back on the road again, its bee far too long

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